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Air cleaner question

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H

hottvr

Jedi Warrior
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Anyone have pics and info for air cleaners for 78 MGB with SU's. The ones I bought won't fit because of the brake booster.
Rick
 
This set up would probably work for you, it doesn't take up the space the pancake filter set ups do and flows rather nicely as well. If you're interested contact me and I'll share the details with you. It about as good undistrubed air flow as you get, takes up very litle space and is easy to mantain, and beside the K&N cone filters, it uses all stock pieces.
 

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Thanks for the pic but those air cleaners look like they will hit the brake booster on a 78 MGB. They need to be quite thin.
Thanks Hap
Rick
 
They probably will hit the booster...K&N has a set of offset filters designed for your application...they are Moss #222-985.
 
Ouch, $66 a piece. They look like they will fit tho. Are the Stellings & Hellings filters on the same page (#223-200) appropriate for 78 B application also. Do they come with chrome plate and filter element and mounting hardware?
Rick
 
No, S&H won't work...the ones I cited are a bit pricey but well worth it...they are pictured as they come in the catalog...I sell them for $55 each - remember, you never have to replace them.
 
K&N makes a nice filter set especially for the later MGBs. The filters are conical and the back one will clear the booster. Look up K&Ns website.
Wombat
 
Wombat - my post above yours gives the Moss # for that filter.
 
I don't like the pancake filter set ups that need bolt running inside the filter that disturbs the air flow, bad design, plus they are kinda are a pain to deal with when you have to take them off. I think K&N offers some better solutions in their website with thier universal filter selection. go to https://www.knfilters.com/ then go to universal filters, then select round/taper, the filter I used on my car is #RU-4410 it's a tapered cone filter, it stick out 3" after it slides on the factory filter base/ velocity stack, you may also want to look at #RC-420, that might do the trick with the brake booster. On the universal filter section in K&N website you can see all the demensions and a picture of the filter as well, very infomative. Look at the 3.5" base ID units they will slip right over the factory filter base/veloctiy stack and then you can can use counter sunk allen head bolts to flush ut the filter base mounting to get a really clean and undisturbed air flow mounting, the filters them self are just held onto to the filter base with a clamp so removel for mantainance is a two second ordeal. I suggest you take good look you will find a better solutions than what is being peddled for cars.
here's a pic of my filter bases with the counterbored hardware.
 

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Hap - IIRC, the countersunk hex bolts you use are 5/16"x24?

R.
 
Man, leave it to Hap. He has highspeed air filters.
 
Hap - how do you attach the filter to that base without bolts running through it also?
 
Then, are they shaped so they'll clear the brake booster on the rear carb? I'd like to see a photo of a setup on a car w/twin carbs & a brake booster.
 
Hey Tony,
Here is a pic of my 77.
I found elements that fit at a lawnmower shop. Just had to alter them a little bit.
Rick
 

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Not alot of air getting to those carbs!
 
I have to agree that above air filter set is pretty restrictive, to answer your question, you boy a air filter to keep the crap out and most people are not wailing down dirt or sand roads and want air flow, because air flow equals performance.

Tony, rather than ask a bunch of questions here, look at the second KN part number I listed in the above post and use the KN website which gives you all the demensions you would ever want, very informative, then measure the room you have to work with on the car, that's what I did. These filters have a rubber sleeve on them, they just slide over the filter bases, use anything with a 3.5" mounting sleeve, then they just clamp on.

Rick, I think it's 5/16-18, but I may mistaken, on the HIF4 cars the carb bodies are threaded on the HS4, you use the stock threaded brackets that sit behind the carbs, besides the counterboring of the filter base there are no other mods.
 
Thanks, Hap.

While I'm still here on the West Coast I don't have a drill press to properly countersink the velocity stack, so I've been looking around. McMaster-Carr have a decent line of button-head screws that look pretty good. They won't give a completely flat air-flow surface, but they're low-profile and don't have any sharp angles. They should do a pretty good job of holding the stack to the carb body without adding much in the way of turbulence. They've got to be a lot better than two big honkin' bolts running through there.

R.
 
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