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AH 3000 front shock mounting bolts

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familyowltree

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Enlighten me as to the bolt size for mounting original front shocks to the shock towers on the BJ8. Any helpful hints on installing helicoils at this location would be helpful. The engine is in the car. Thanks
 
From Mechanical service parts list AKD 3523 Page MK5

HZ S0608 Hex hd screw
ZincDia ; 3/8
Length ;1

Springwasher under the head
 
Its a std. 3/8" x 24 tpi NF thread. Have you done a Heli- Coil repair ? Using the proper size drill bit and being able to squarely drill , tap and install the Heli-Coil are key. It will say what drill bit to use on the repair bottle. Work very cleanly and carefully , if you mess up the installation of the Heli-Coil and can't remove it , its time to cut the shock mount plate off and replace it.
Kevin
 
Why use helicoil.
Cut access holes in the side of plate. Then using the bolt add new nuts to the back of the old stripped ones and weld n place. Front end alignment remains correct.
--OR Have the damaged plate replaced in an alignment shop.
 
Keoke said:
Why use helicoil.
Cut access holes in the side of plate. Then using the bolt add new nuts to the back of the old stripped ones and weld n place. Front end alignment remains correct.
--OR Have the damaged plate replaced in an alignment shop.
Click to expand...
This is what I did to repair a stripped nut on one of my front shock plates. I cut open the side of the shock plate with a dremel tool and then pryed it open and with a small bit of grinding from the top I was able to remove some of the weld and then with a bolt screwed into the stripped nut I was able using a hammer tap out the stripped nut. I had the taller "round nut" made and then installed it and welded it to the shock tower plate. I ground off the plate weld smooth, closed up the plate side and welded it, primed the plate and then painted it. No more loosened bolts for over 30 years til I had a new frame made.
 

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Thanks for your help. I have used helicoils before and am very comfortable with their dependability. I am not a welder so welding would add another step. I will reassemble with a flat washer and then lock washer which should disperse the pressure on the alloy shock base and reduce the potential for recurring issues. Any other advise...Loctite? Thanks again for your help.
 
familyowltree said:
Enlighten me as to the bolt size for mounting original front shocks to the shock towers on the BJ8. Any helpful hints on installing helicoils at this location would be helpful. The engine is in the car. Thanks
Click to expand...

Previous to my ownership, 3 or 4 10mm bolts were installed in place of stripped 3/8" bolts. They have never loosened in the 14 years I've owned the car.

I'd argue for tapping the holes for 10mm. If it works out, it's easy, if not you're no worse off than the other suggestions. Grade 8.8 metric bolts are similar to SAE grade 5.

I've been using belleville washers rather than split-rings. Have heard comments both ways on loctite or not - blue would be best.

Just my 2$ worth (accounting for inflation ).
 
familyowltree said:
Thanks for your help. I have used helicoils before and am very comfortable with their dependability. I am not a welder so welding would add another step. I will reassemble with a flat washer and then lock washer which should disperse the pressure on the alloy shock base and reduce the potential for recurring issues. Any other advise...Loctite? Thanks again for your help.
Click to expand...

Install the helicoil(s), use grade 8 flatwashers--to increase the overall clamping force as you suggest--apply blue threadlocker to threads and torque to 35lb-ft.
 
Hi Owltree, Here's my 2 cents. As Keoke mentioned, I cut the outside vertical edge out of the shock mount plate. Then with a sharp chisel i knocked what was left of the captured bolts out of the openning and got them out of the way. I cut a piece of 3/8 in steel plate to slide into the openning under the shock mounting surface. I set the shock in place where it belonged and used a "centering" punch to mark the exact center of the holes with a dimple into the 3/8 plate. Pulled the plate out and drilled and tapped it. Put the plate back in, set the shock back in place, dropped the bolts into place and tightened them up. It pulls the 3/8 plate tight to the underside of the shock mounting plate and the alighnment is as good as it was. :smile: Then to close up the slot from removing the vertical side, I welded it back into place and painted it. can't even tell that 3/8th plate is in there. You could get someone to bring their Mig over to just weld that little side edge back on. Good Luck, Dave
 
Use a Heli-coil. It's not rocket science and they work great. Just follow the directions. We racers use them all the time.
 
steveg said:
Is it usually possible to run the heli-coil tap into the stripped hole, or does the hole have to be drilled out?
Click to expand...

To properly install a Heli-coil--or similar thread insert--you should drill first; though I suppose you could ram the tap through. I'm guessing a) you don't have the oddball (25/64" ?) drill bit required, or b) are thinking you can't position a drill vertically over the hole. I used one of these to drill: https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-90-angle-drill-attachment-69337.html and installed the coil as usual; it's held for many thousands of miles.
 
Bob_Spidell said:
To properly install a Heli-coil--or similar thread insert--you should drill first; though I suppose you could ram the tap through. I'm guessing a) you don't have the oddball (25/64" ?) drill bit required, or b) are thinking you can't position a drill vertically over the hole. I used one of these to drill: https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-90-angle-drill-attachment-69337.html and installed the coil as usual; it's held for many thousands of miles.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Bob - I ordered a similar right-angle adapter and a stubby 13/32" drill bit from Amazon; after reviewing some YouTube videos it was apparent the hole always needs to be drilled.

My drill is different because my stripped bolt is an M10 x 1.5.
 
Bob_Spidell said:
I've taken to applying red threadlocker to the (outside) of the coil.
Click to expand...

One of the Heli-Coil YouTube videos recommended chasing the dried Loctite out of the inside of the coil with a chasing tap. I've used bolts as chasing taps by grinding a sharp-edged groove in each side.

Don't expect any loosening with the Nord-Lock washers. Don't think there would be any problem with the Heli-Coil backing out if the bolt doesn't rotate.

BoltChaser.JPG
 
Helicoils are great if there is enough meat left in the metal to retain strength. I don't see that in this repair though. Those welded nuts may not be that thick (cylindrically) to begin with, and although I understand many have done it with success, I would not. I still feel the best solution is to replace the whole thing with one adjustable for camber OR replace the stripped nuts with a tapped piece of flat steel plate, which also spreads the load and reduces chances of loosening.
 
Have decided to follow Dougie's and Vette's advice and go for the metal plate (from Tom's Toys). On removal of my right front shock, besides one stripped captive nut, the other outboard nut is partially stripped.

In addition, my right-angle drill with stubby bit is still too tall to drill straight into the hole, so I'm going to pass on the helicoil.

Will have process photos on my gallery when the work's done.
 
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