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AH 100-6 turn signals
- Thread starter chuck1006
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Hi Chuck,
Welcome to the forum. Sorry that your first contact had to be with a problem but maybe we can help.
Your's is the most difficult of problems to diagnose by mail. The fact that some of the wiring may not be correct or is defective precludes the usual logical analysis. We are left trying to guess what "could be" wrong with the wiring as well as the usual problems. Can you give a little more info?
1- If the turn lights are on & blinking, does turning on park lights cause the blinking lights to just stay steadily on, or do they go out?
2- as above, does an additional light come on or does the intensity change?
3- If the parklights are on first & you turn on the blinkers, what happens?
Since I don't know what your skill level is concerning things automotive electrical I'm not sure how to proceed yet.
The corner lamps should have type 1157 or equivalent bulbs. This is a two element bulb with the park lamp section having about 7 watts output. The turn lamp portion, & on the back, the turn-stop portion has 15 watts output.
There are three wires to each bulb socket. One for ground, one for turn (high output), & one for park (low output). The colors should be black for the four bulb grounds. The remaining colors for the turn lamp portion of the bulbs should be - Left front = grn/red, - Right front = grn/white. Left rear = wh/purple, - right rear = wh/brown. Remember that these go to the higher wattage portion of the bulbs. The colors for the park lamp portion of the bulb are LF = red, RF = red, LR = red, RR = red. The rear license lamp is also red with a black ground. I THINK that these colors are correct for your car. If not, let us know.
If you can answer the above questions it will help to pinpoint the problem.
D
Welcome to the forum. Sorry that your first contact had to be with a problem but maybe we can help.
Your's is the most difficult of problems to diagnose by mail. The fact that some of the wiring may not be correct or is defective precludes the usual logical analysis. We are left trying to guess what "could be" wrong with the wiring as well as the usual problems. Can you give a little more info?
1- If the turn lights are on & blinking, does turning on park lights cause the blinking lights to just stay steadily on, or do they go out?
2- as above, does an additional light come on or does the intensity change?
3- If the parklights are on first & you turn on the blinkers, what happens?
Since I don't know what your skill level is concerning things automotive electrical I'm not sure how to proceed yet.
The corner lamps should have type 1157 or equivalent bulbs. This is a two element bulb with the park lamp section having about 7 watts output. The turn lamp portion, & on the back, the turn-stop portion has 15 watts output.
There are three wires to each bulb socket. One for ground, one for turn (high output), & one for park (low output). The colors should be black for the four bulb grounds. The remaining colors for the turn lamp portion of the bulbs should be - Left front = grn/red, - Right front = grn/white. Left rear = wh/purple, - right rear = wh/brown. Remember that these go to the higher wattage portion of the bulbs. The colors for the park lamp portion of the bulb are LF = red, RF = red, LR = red, RR = red. The rear license lamp is also red with a black ground. I THINK that these colors are correct for your car. If not, let us know.
If you can answer the above questions it will help to pinpoint the problem.
D
Hi Dave,
Not sure if my reply posted. I havn't used this before so not sure how the posting replys work. Thanks for your help. Got it figured out through you advice. Have another question but will wait to see if you get this. Thanks again.
Regards,
Chuck Keeler
Not sure if my reply posted. I havn't used this before so not sure how the posting replys work. Thanks for your help. Got it figured out through you advice. Have another question but will wait to see if you get this. Thanks again.
Regards,
Chuck Keeler
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Hi Chuck,
Glad things are working. As you can see, your reply magically appeared right below my last one. Fire away.
Sometimes you have to hit "refresh" or "reload" on your browser screen to see the latest additions to a page.
D
Glad things are working. As you can see, your reply magically appeared right below my last one. Fire away.
Sometimes you have to hit "refresh" or "reload" on your browser screen to see the latest additions to a page.
D
Hi Dave,
I guess my earlier reply didn't take. To summarize, from your advice, I saw one lamp dimmer than the rest and it was the only one that the turn signal worked on when the pilot and headlights were on. The bulb assemblys don't have the wire color markings so I had them switched on the other three. Once again, it was your advice about the pilot vs turn signal wattage that allowed me to figure it out. Great advice. Thanks again!
I have been working on my 100-6 for almost two years. I went down to the frame and there was much more body work than I bargined for. I am still not happy with the door gaps but it will be an excellant driver. Your Healey looks great! How long have you had it?
My last (hopefully) electrical problem is the fuel gauge. I just installed a new sending unit and it measures 26.8 ohms from the sending post to ground with 4 gallons of gas in the tank. The gauge shows 3/4 full which seems the opposite. I did the test by grounding and ungrounding the sending wire and the gauge goes from full to empty. Any ideas?
Thanks again!
Chuck
I guess my earlier reply didn't take. To summarize, from your advice, I saw one lamp dimmer than the rest and it was the only one that the turn signal worked on when the pilot and headlights were on. The bulb assemblys don't have the wire color markings so I had them switched on the other three. Once again, it was your advice about the pilot vs turn signal wattage that allowed me to figure it out. Great advice. Thanks again!
I have been working on my 100-6 for almost two years. I went down to the frame and there was much more body work than I bargined for. I am still not happy with the door gaps but it will be an excellant driver. Your Healey looks great! How long have you had it?
My last (hopefully) electrical problem is the fuel gauge. I just installed a new sending unit and it measures 26.8 ohms from the sending post to ground with 4 gallons of gas in the tank. The gauge shows 3/4 full which seems the opposite. I did the test by grounding and ungrounding the sending wire and the gauge goes from full to empty. Any ideas?
Thanks again!
Chuck
Offline
Re: AH 100-6 turn signals - now fuel gage
[ QUOTE ]
Hi Dave,
Your Healey looks great! How long have you had it?
My last (hopefully) electrical problem is the fuel gauge. I just installed a new sending unit and it measures 26.8 ohms from the sending post to ground with 4 gallons of gas in the tank. The gauge shows 3/4 full which seems the opposite. I did the test by grounding and ungrounding the sending wire and the gauge goes from full to empty. Any ideas?
Thanks again!
Chuck
[/ QUOTE ]
I've had this car about four years.
For all you want to know about the Healey fuel gage, including how to calibrate it, go here. I's for an MGA but they are the same. Just follow the arrows at the bottom to page through.
https://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_10.htm
The sender should read from about 70 ohms full tank to zero ohms empty tank. 27 ohms should read about 3/8 full. First make sure that the sender is covering it's full range of travel when installed in the tank. With the tank empty, you can remove the sender, attach a piece of string to the float arm, fish the string through one of the sender mounting screw holes, & install the sender. Raise & lower the arm with the string to see if the float is giving full travel & corresponds with the zero & 70 ohm readings. If you feel like messing around enough, you can carefully bend the float arm to suit.
It was initially recommended to install the sender with the float facing forward which puts it near the front & lowest part of the tank when empty. I have found that pointing the float toward the back of the tank puts the float closer to the tank center & reduces the amount of gage jumping due to fore/aft slosh of the fuel. Personal choice.
Good luck,
D
[ QUOTE ]
Hi Dave,
Your Healey looks great! How long have you had it?
My last (hopefully) electrical problem is the fuel gauge. I just installed a new sending unit and it measures 26.8 ohms from the sending post to ground with 4 gallons of gas in the tank. The gauge shows 3/4 full which seems the opposite. I did the test by grounding and ungrounding the sending wire and the gauge goes from full to empty. Any ideas?
Thanks again!
Chuck
[/ QUOTE ]
I've had this car about four years.
For all you want to know about the Healey fuel gage, including how to calibrate it, go here. I's for an MGA but they are the same. Just follow the arrows at the bottom to page through.
https://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_10.htm
The sender should read from about 70 ohms full tank to zero ohms empty tank. 27 ohms should read about 3/8 full. First make sure that the sender is covering it's full range of travel when installed in the tank. With the tank empty, you can remove the sender, attach a piece of string to the float arm, fish the string through one of the sender mounting screw holes, & install the sender. Raise & lower the arm with the string to see if the float is giving full travel & corresponds with the zero & 70 ohm readings. If you feel like messing around enough, you can carefully bend the float arm to suit.
It was initially recommended to install the sender with the float facing forward which puts it near the front & lowest part of the tank when empty. I have found that pointing the float toward the back of the tank puts the float closer to the tank center & reduces the amount of gage jumping due to fore/aft slosh of the fuel. Personal choice.
Good luck,
D