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Aftermarket Fiberglass Hardtops

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Webb Sledge

Webb Sledge

Jedi Warrior
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A have the opportunity to get one that's been sitting for about 10 years, I assume in dry, warm storage, for $100 when the new ones and originals are going for over $1000. I don't know much about the condition of the top, and I plan to call the owner tomorrow. But before I do, a few questions: What are the opinions of these? Good quality, good seals? Are they paintable? What's the texture like? Do they easily bolt up?


Thanks,
Webb
 
Hi Webb,

There are good looking tops out there. IMHO, the more angular ones look best on the TR6 and the more rounded styles look better on the TR3, 4, 250. The "factory" tops for each were this way, too.

Fiberglass is generally pretty easily painted. If it's been sitting for a while it might have some cracks and need some work. Fiberglass is pretty easy to repair, though.

Some tops were covered with vinyl, to mimic the soft top. Others were finished with gel coat to a particular color, or just primed. All can be changed pretty easily. The vinyl-covered type would likely be the most difficult to work with, removing the old vinyl and the glue that adhered it to the top.

The biggest concern is probably the window, which may or may not be easily replaceable, hopefully is in good condition. A lot used a Lexan or other rigid plastic window, that is more easily scratched than glass. Rubber parts, seals, may be hard to get, too. Most use widely available hardware, so that's not usually a problem.

It's not uncommon for the tops to have been unfinished or pretty crudely finished inside. It may be possible to add a liner, but might add some expense.

There have been a number of companies making aftermarket tops over the years, some good, some not so great. Well done fiberglass is strong. In fact, some cars use it combined with plywood to make for a potentially stronger than steel structure.
 
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...fiberglass tops look like a bikini on a fat girl...

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Oh don't sugar-coat it -- tell us what you really think.

Thanks for that rather graphic image.
 
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Webb, IMHO the fiberglass tops look like a bikini on a fat girl. Save your money for some real eye candy.

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I wouldn't go quite that far, but they certainly don't look as good as the original angular ones. But on the other hand: $100. You just can't beat it, especially if the top is in good condition. Even a decent original is going to go for AT LEAST 5 times that.
 
Boy thats rough. I don't think they look quite that bad. As you've said, not as good as the original type, but for $100 it's hard to go wrong. Plus, I'm assuming it will only be on the car part of the year, winter only?
 
the ONLY hardtop that looked good on the TR6 was the factory original. All the others make the car look like heck.
 
Again, I disagree. They're rounded, and the car is more angular, but they look ok. My eyes aren't going to burn out if I see a TR with an aftermarket top. Dotanukie: Yes, it will only be used in late fall, winter, and early spring.

*Update: I called the owner and he reports that the fiberglass is not cracked, all the seals and hardware are on it, and it still has the glass in it. He told me it had been sitting in the same place (a dry building) for about 6 years, since he sold his 6. He's moved into hot rodding now, and is building a '39 Ford (or was it Chevy?). Anyway, hopefully I'll get a look-see in a couple days, and if all looks well, I'll have me a nice top!
 
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Yes, it will only be used in late fall, winter, and early spring.

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OK, so it's not like you're gonna be going to car shows with the thing in place. I'd buy it to if I had the chance, for $100 bucks? No doubt. Even if you only used it one season and then decided you hated it who cares, it was only $100 bucks. Not like you dropped a grand on it.
 
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Yes, it will only be used in late fall, winter, and early spring.

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OK, so it's not like you're gonna be going to car shows with the thing in place. I'd buy it to if I had the chance, for $100 bucks? No doubt. Even if you only used it one season and then decided you hated it who cares, it was only $100 bucks. Not like you dropped a grand on it.

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My thoughts exactly.
 
and then after you buy it, look at another TR6 with a factory hard top and you'll wish you saved the hundred bucks, added another 800 bucks to it and got a real hardtop that looks like something.
 
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I don't feel like arguing with you. All I want is a top that will seal up the darn car in the winter. Nothing more, nothing less.

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Most people don't drive these cars in winter, or even in bad weather. I care too much about mine to get it pelted by gravel, and corroded by magnesium chloride(de-icer). That's why it looks brand new. TR6's are not made for driving on snow or icy roads. Doing that in my estimation, is not exactly too smart. My soft top gives more than adequate protection for spring, summer, and fall. I had the chance to pick up the factory hardtop when I first bought the car, for about $800 dollars, and now I wish I did, but have never found a reason to be bothered with getting a hardtop since that time. I can't imagine how a person could enjoy putting so much time and attention into a British sports car and then taking it out on bad roads to beat the heck out of it. Takes all kinds I guess.
 
Geez, the guy lives in Virginia, not International Falls. With modest weather protection a '6 is a year-round car there.

I drive in all weather, all roads. In Arizona if you don't drive on bad roads you don't get far. That approach wouldn't suit everyone but works for me.

Triumph in winter:
winter3.JPG
 
you don't know the meaning of bad roads living in Arizona...that was almost humorous. Point in fact is, that I'll bet 90% of Tr6 owners respect their cars enough, and the work they do to keep them running, to exercise enough common sense not to drive on snow or ice covered roads. They are NOT meant for safe or proper traction on snow or ice covered roads. I live in an area where I might know something about that.
 
Thanks Geo, the photo of your TR4 in the snow really brought back some memories!

During my foolish youth in Colorado, I thought snow was an opportunity to improve my corner-sliding skills in the TR4, or for rooster tails on my motorcycle.

Actually the TR4 was not all that bad in the snow, so long as you were a bit careful with the throttle. But, it was a little low-slung if the snow got much over 5 inches deep. I managed to get around pretty well, even though I never put snow tires on it. The car spurned it's first and only set of tire chains. Broke em within the first 100 feet.

Worst car I ever drove on snow and ice was a friend's 240Z. A BMW 2002 ws much better (85 mph on glaze ice... but that's another story). The very best was my '63 VW bug with studded snow tires that would practically climb trees. I actually did use it to help tow a stuck 4x4 out of a drift once. We didn't call em SUVs in those days.

Of course, my circulation was better then, too, which meant nothing more than a tonneau on the TR4 most of the year, except when it was raining hard. I would guess I didn't have the soft top up more than two dozen days out of a year in Boulder. It's true! If you go fast enough, the rain, sleet, snow and cold just blows over your head and you stay snug, warm and dry!

Now that I'm older, keep the thermostat set higher and live in sunny California, well, I'm looking for a bargain hard top, too. The right aftermarket model would get my attention, but I'd still prefer an original!

Cheers!

Alan
 
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Most people don't drive these cars in winter, or even in bad weather. I care too much about mine to get it pelted by gravel, and corroded by magnesium chloride(de-icer). That's why it looks brand new. TR6's are not made for driving on snow or icy roads. Doing that in my estimation, is not exactly too smart. My soft top gives more than adequate protection for spring, summer, and fall. I had the chance to pick up the factory hardtop when I first bought the car, for about $800 dollars, and now I wish I did, but have never found a reason to be bothered with getting a hardtop since that time. I can't imagine how a person could enjoy putting so much time and attention into a British sports car and then taking it out on bad roads to beat the heck out of it. Takes all kinds I guess.


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I think you're a bit off the mark here. I live in New Jersey, and we get some decent winter weather here, as well as a boatload of salt, sand, and gravel dumped on the roads. Although I'll admit that I don't drive my car in the sleet, snow, and rain, I also do enjoy taking it out on those cold winter days when the raods are dry and the weather clear. On those days I really wish I had a hard top, as I find the soft top to be drafty and it doesn't insulate worth a darn. Just because I drive my car occasionally in the months of December, January and February I'd hardly say I was being irresponsible or uncaring toward it. Also, to say that these cars were not built for that kind of weather, what do you think people were driving routinely 30 years ago, when these cars were all over the roads? I know alot of people my parents age that were driving small sports cars as daily drivers back in those days, and doing just fine. If you know how to drive in the snow, you can drive a small rear drive sports car without to much trouble, provided it doesn't get to deep. I grew up driving high horsepower rear drive muscle cars in every kind of weather imaginable, and I've never gotten one stuck or gotten in an accident. Sure, they are not ideal winter vehicles, but driving smart and developing your skills can more than make up for any vehicle's not having 4WD, ABS, or traction control.
 
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Most people don't drive these cars in winter, or even in bad weather. I care too much about mine to get it pelted by gravel, and corroded by magnesium chloride(de-icer). That's why it looks brand new. TR6's are not made for driving on snow or icy roads. Doing that in my estimation, is not exactly too smart. My soft top gives more than adequate protection for spring, summer, and fall. I had the chance to pick up the factory hardtop when I first bought the car, for about $800 dollars, and now I wish I did, but have never found a reason to be bothered with getting a hardtop since that time. I can't imagine how a person could enjoy putting so much time and attention into a British sports car and then taking it out on bad roads to beat the heck out of it. Takes all kinds I guess.


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I think you're a bit off the mark here. I live in New Jersey, and we get some decent winter weather here, as well as a boatload of salt, sand, and gravel dumped on the roads. Although I'll admit that I don't drive my car in the sleet, snow, and rain, I also do enjoy taking it out on those cold winter days when the raods are dry and the weather clear. On those days I really wish I had a hard top, as I find the soft top to be drafty and it doesn't insulate worth a darn. Just because I drive my car occasionally in the months of December, January and February I'd hardly say I was being irresponsible or uncaring toward it. Also, to say that these cars were not built for that kind of weather, what do you think people were driving routinely 30 years ago, when these cars were all over the roads? I know alot of people my parents age that were driving small sports cars as daily drivers back in those days, and doing just fine. If you know how to drive in the snow, you can drive a small rear drive sports car without to much trouble, provided it doesn't get to deep. I grew up driving high horsepower rear drive muscle cars in every kind of weather imaginable, and I've never gotten one stuck or gotten in an accident. Sure, they are not ideal winter vehicles, but driving smart and developing your skills can more than make up for any vehicle's not having 4WD, ABS, or traction control.

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First of all, there's not a rear wheel drive car ever made that handles slippery roads as well as a 4WD. I know, because I have a Jeep. As for your statement that there was a time when everyone had rear wheel drive cars for winter....there was also a time when everyone used a horse and a buggy, so I fail to see any point to your statement. Considering "those days," since everyone had poor traction, everyone had to be more careful. That made it safer just by that one fact. Leaving that where it might be, no amount of "awareness" will totally make up for technological superiority, like 4WD, ABS, or airbags. There was a time when cars didn't have seatbelts either...so following your logic, if you drove safely, you wouldn't need them???? If you want to expose your TR6 to rust, corrosion, salt, gravel, magnesium chloride, and the other regular hazards of winter..go right ahead. I respect my car, and the work I've done on it too much to risk having it destroyed by driving it in those kind of conditions. I also value my safety enough to park my Triumph and head for the Jeep when weather and road conditions warrant it.
 
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Leaving that where it might be, no amount of "awareness" will totally make up for technological superiority, like 4WD, ABS, or airbags. I also value my safety enough to park my Triumph and head for the Jeep when weather and road conditions warrant it.

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OK, I think you're dead wrong here. I know plenty of people driving brand new cars that have every kind of modern, computerized driving aid know to man in them and they still can't keep from skidding off the road or into someone else every time it snows. Plus, the last time I checked 4WD does not give you the ability to stop any quicker than anyone else, you've got the same brakes and tires as every other car on the road. After one of our snows here in New Jersey last year the state police issued a statement saying that of all the accidents that had occured that day on state highways over 70% of them could be contributed to SUV drivers overestimating the abilities of their vehicles. Also, please don't lecture me on the prowess of 4WD, I drove a Jeep Wrangler for nearly 10 years and my wife currently drives a Jeep Grand Cherokee. I'm well aware of the differences betwen driving one of those vehicles and a classic LBC. I was not trying to say that the capabilities of a LBC, or any classic car for that matter, could compare to a 4WD vehicle in bad weather. My point was that if you know what you're doing and you don't have your head up your butt while driving you can get along just fine in moderate winter weather with a classic car if need be. Whether you have the desire to do so or not is a matter of personal choice. In the end though you know what, if Webb Sledge wants to drive his car in a blizzard and potentially ruin it, so what, it's his car, he can do whatever he likes with it. However, he shouldn't have to put up with being called stupid (or as you said "not to smart") when he just asked a question about a hardtop. If you don't agree with his choices thats fine, you're entitled to your opinion, but don't berate him for his.

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I don't feel like arguing with you. All I want is a top that will seal up the darn car in the winter. Nothing more, nothing less.

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I agree, I'm done with this now.
 
Each to his own I suppose...
I've driven my Mini as my only all-year driver for many years in Sweden, lots of snow, even more ice and truckloads of salt on the highways.
Never did have any problems nor accidents, wish the heater was better is all.
This car was thoroughly waxoiled every year and is still to this day rust free.
It was made to be driven, and driven it was. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif
Just my two yennies worth.
 
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