After 30 years, it runs!

[Nader]

So it turned out the valves were all wide open. Looking back, that puff of air I experienced while cranking the engine a couple weeks back was from the fact that I had plugged the tail pipes to keep out dust and such. Crazy, huh? Totally had me thinking that compression was intact.

So I adjusted the valves, and got most of the compression I was looking for. From cyl. 1-6, I got (on a cold engine) 160, 135, 185, 175, 130, and 90. Not great, but enough to sputter on starting fluid. I messed with the carbs turning random screws (I really should sit down and read that manual) and finally got this lump running.

Blew out all kinds of smoke, starting out dark, then lightening up to grey/white. Couldn't tell if it was antifreeze turning to steam or not as I was flushing out the radiator and gradually replaced the coolant with water. Also, it was getting dark. I'll investigate further tomorrow if I've got coolant in the oil (or CO2 in the coolant).

At any rate, I've got good oil pressure, most of the gauges work (gas gauge not connected yet), and no major leaks. I really wanted to run it down the driveway, but I discovered the clutch and brakes need another round of bleeding.

I've been around a lot of spicy vehicles in my days, and this throaty exhaust note really turns my crank. Can't wait to get it tuned, sorted, and out on the road.

Thanks for all the help along the way.

 

[Deleted member 8987]

Good deal! Once you've run it in a bit, do another compression test and compare. And, please, don't leave water in the cooling system. Rust, corrosion, and a big Alaska storm is due tomorrow, and the weather wimps are talking snow in the lowlands, so we don't want the block freezing!

 

[Nader]

Right, Dave. I've got a few gallons of distilled water and a jug of antifreeze waiting to go in tomorrow after round 2. I need to run this engine a few more times before I put the project away for the winter. I want to run some concentrated fuel cleaner through the system to clear out residual gum and varnish, and I might do the ole water mist in the carbs trick to decarbonize the pistons and valves.

 

[EV2239]

I'd take the carbs off and completely rebuild and reset them and also the distributor because both right make such a huge difference to how the cars run.

Ash

 

[Legal Bill]

....(I really should sit down and read that manual) ...

This is the first thing you have said that I agree with.

After you read through the manual, I would urge you to consider the following steps, some of which you may have already done. In every case, go back to the manual and carefully read the section before you start doing the work.

1. Change the oil and filter.

2. Change the fuel filter, or install one if none is present.

3. Buy and install all ignition tune-up parts to include plugs, wires, cap, rotor, pig tail, points and condenser (unless you have an electronic system installed then skip the points and condenser).

4. Remove the distributor from the car. Clean it and make sure the vacuum advance is still functioning. Then install the new parts and reinstall the distributor and set the timing statically.

5. Clean the internal filter in the fuel pump if your pump has one.

6. Drain out all the old fuel and pour new fuel into the tank. Then drain that out and see what it looks like. If the fresh fuel comes out dirty, then remove the tank and have it cleaned or replace it.

7. Drain the coolant and install fresh 50/50. Replace the old thermostat while you are at it.

8. Inspect and replace the hoses and the fan belt.

9. Check the torque on the cylinder head bolts as it sounds like that job was not really completed and who knows where they left off?

10. Recheck the valve adjustment and reinstall the valve cover.

11. Try to start the car and warm it up (stop fiddling with carb screws you know nothing about until you know something about them). Check the oil pressure, especially when hot. check and set the timing with a timing light that has an advance dial.

12. Read the manual regarding how to tune the carbs. Then read it again. Then buy the tools you need to tune the carbs.

13. Remove the air filters and clean or replace them as the case may be. Warm up the engine and adjust the carbs.

At this point, the engine will be in shape to run as well as it can given its age. Do a compression check when hot and see if the low cylinder is still at only 90 pounds.

Before you drive it off, drain the tranny and the differential and install new fluid in both.

 

[tahoe healey]

Legal Bill is right on. Then once you get the engine going you need to think about stopping. If the car has been sitting you will need to rebuild or replace the master cylinder, the wheel cylinders and flush the system with appropriate brake fluid. Figure out if you have silicon or Dot 3 or 4. It is easy to; get excited with the car going but can get even more exciting if you cannot stop. Hope you didn't have plans for the Holidays. You have a full plate but we have all been there.

 

[57_BN4]

I'd add overhauling the water pump too as the seal as the rubber bellows will be hard as rock and it'll throw out all the coolant the first time you get it really warmed up.

If your wp has a nut at the front of the shaft, middle of the fan then it is very simple to disassemble but the seals aren't available. Have a good machinist install a modern style seal of approximately 40mm OD which requires just a whisker taking out of the internal bore.

 

[Nader]

Good ideas, everyone. Virtually all of the hydraulics have been replaced or refurbished, and fresh hoses all around. Seattle Radiator did a race recore on the radiator, and it has new hoses as well. Fan belt as well. Good call on the water pump rebuild, that's going on the list as well.

I'm encouraged by the lack of loud knocking, rattling, leaks, or bad vibrations from the engine. Still need to investigate the smoke/steam issue. I just picked up a combustion leak tester from NAPA, and will give that a go tomorrow before the final radiator flush. Little odds and ends in preparation for stowing it for the winter.

My goal is to get the bare minimum done for now, so that I can drive it into my car hauler and move it into and out of shop space and storage. The car needs attention to the frame and most of the body, which is next on the agenda sometime in the future. I don't plan on doing much with it this winter, as I have vintage race motorcycles and an Alfa Duetto racer which all have needs before the next race season.