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Advice on trailering

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C

Coastalman

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I am going to trailer my '66 3000 to the body/paint shop tomorrow and would like some advice on where to attach the hold down straps once the car is on the trailer. I have taken the bumpers off so I can not use those brackets.
Thanks,
Charlie
 
Hello Charlie. I have a winch on my trailer so sometime ago I mounted tow brackets to the front of the Healey, where the bumper bars attach. So of course I just hook tie downs to those brackets and then to the front D rings on the trailer. For the rear I just wrap the tie downs around the rear axle near the spring mounts, then to the rear of the trailer D rings. Keep in mind the car will bounce around on the trailer so you may also need to attach tie downs from side to side as well. Although I've never actually done that I have noticed the car moved about an inch at times from where it was parked on the trailer. I have a wood plank type open trailer.
 
Charlie,
If you have chains for the front, you could just use one of the long bumper bracket bolts with a washer to bolt through the chain to the frame on each side, then to the front D rings of your trailer. In the back you will probably need some of those ratcheting tie downs. You can hook those over the ends of the leaf springs or around the rear axle as suggested earlier then rachet them and the car tight to your trailer.
Ed
 
Ed,
Good idea on the front bracket bolts and I do have the ratcheting tie downs. I loaded the car on the trailer last night in preparation for the tow today and noticed there is a lot of tongue weight. I may try to back the car onto the trailer to put more of the weight over the trailer axle. Luckily I only have to go about 30 miles so I think I will be okay. Any suggestions on leaving the car in gear vs not? Of course I will have the hand brake set.
Charlie
 
Charlie,
I always form an "X" with both the front and rear tie downs so the car is less likely to move side to side. Have a good day!

John
 
Thanks to all for the advice! I used it well and my car is now safely at the paint shop. Since the trailer floor was wood, I also tacked down a 2x4 in front of the front tire and one in back of the rear tire for a little extra assurance. Heck, I even tied a stout line to the front sway bar even after I had done all the other tie downs just for extra peace of mind since the rear of the trailer was open.
 
Thanks to all for the advice! I used it well and my car is now safely at the paint shop. Since the trailer floor was wood, I also tacked down a 2x4 in front of the front tire and one in back of the rear tire for a little extra assurance. Heck, I even tied a stout line to the front sway bar even after I had done all the other tie downs just for extra peace of mind since the rear of the trailer was open.
 
John_Progess said:
Charlie,
I always form an "X" with both the front and rear tie downs so the car is less likely to move side to side. Have a good day!

John
Click to expand...
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John--

If the straps are crossed and one breaks that creates more slack for the car to roll front/back than if the straps are straight.
 
Coastalman said:
Ed,
Good idea on the front bracket bolts and I do have the ratcheting tie downs. I loaded the car on the trailer last night in preparation for the tow today and noticed there is a lot of tongue weight. I may try to back the car onto the trailer to put more of the weight over the trailer axle. Luckily I only have to go about 30 miles so I think I will be okay. Any suggestions on leaving the car in gear vs not? Of course I will have the hand brake set.
Charlie
Click to expand...

Never, never, tow the car with it facing backwards. The weight of the engine in the rear of the trailer will cause it to swing back and forth very abruptly and cause an accident. You can adjust tongue weight by moving the car frontward for more, backward for less. I've found for mine if the rear bumper is about 6 inches from the rear of the trailer it's about right. "Here's another tip, if you turn the steering slightly to the right entering the trailer you'll increase driver side door clearance." Helpful if your trailer has fenders.
 
Aside on this note, what is a good size bed of a Healey so the doors do open and balance front to back? How does one avoid problems with bottom clearence ramp to trailer and ground to ramp?
 
I have just had a 7x14 trailer made at one of the somewhat local metal works businesses. This size gives a little extra room fore and aft and side to side. I looked at a 6x12, but there was not any extra room. He moved the axle a bit forward, inclosed the inside of the fenders so it will not splash, made 12" side rails and made the ramp inclined slightly so the Healey will be able to drive on without scraping. The trailer is single axle and rated at 4000#. Total cost,$1300. The floor is wood over metal. There is even a reinforced bar in the front middle in case a comealong is needed to winch the car on the trailer.
I hope this info helps

Charlie
 
Coastalman, I have trailered car occasionally over the years, trailered a Midget to Boston, and picked up my Healey in DC. I was told a long time ago and it seems to pan out for me, Never attach the hold downs to the car at a point on the car that is Sprung. That is to the body or frame that is sitting on the Springs. The motion of the springs will eventually loosen and/or shift the load. the straps should be fastened to the rear axle, and then to the lower a-frame at the front near the bottom swivel joint. This then will keep the whole rig very firm and the only motion that will be produced is the forgivness in the tires which is very minimal. I put chain binder hold downs around my rear axle, being careful of the panard bar. Rap the axle with towels if you are concerned with the paint. I used very heavy straps on the front A-frames. And put them on straight. If you are towing a short distance at moderate speed you "could ignore" these guidlines and get away with it. I suppose my post is alittle late. But I wanted to explain my points.
 
Had mine moved by a commercial unit, pity they didnt watch the approach/departure angle, took out both my torsion bar link pins, of course as usual Mr Nobody is to blame!
 
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