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Advice of Bugeye buy and use

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I think it's a nice looking Bugeye overall. It needs a little paint work and someone went wild with a spray can of black paint on the underside! As long as that black paints not hiding any rust thru it should be ok. You really need to poke around on the underside to see how solid it is since there's evidence of previous metal work.
Rut
 
I think you need to see the car in person. You need to know if the transmission, clutch and the engine are sound. You need to drive it to find these things out.
You could also visit this one Florida. I believe it is in excellent shape and apparently has recently been gone over by "BUGEYE GUY" so you could also inquire of him as to what he knows about the car.
You could wind up spending as much as an offer on this car would cost you and still not have a decent Bugeye. I would take a look at both cars, but I think this one is sounder from the get go.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1960-Austi...ash=item41c310cf71:g:d2IAAOSwN6JY~gr7&vxp=mtr
 
mikeamondo said:
Ok guys, have a look at this one... you may recognize it from eBay. I've spoken with the owner... I believe he's a straight up guy and has offered the car at a good price... Top is new, bow is in good shape, side curtains new, front brakes converted to disc. He's not certain what engine the car has, if it's original or has been changed... he listed it as 1100, but immediately will tell you he's not sure. Based on his description of power and driving in hilly terrain, I'm guessing it's a 948 or 1100. To revisit my original post, the car would be used primarily for taking to shows and now so much for regular cruising. Also... I don't hate the idea of planning for and executing an engine upgrade in the future.... What are your thoughts.... what would be a good price.... anything horrible pop out of the pics at you? Thanks!
Click to expand...

I think it would be worth a road trip to take a look. As Rut said, check it out underneath and drive it. From the looks of the carbs and valve cover, it may already be a 1275. The seats are from a later car, but the interior looks good. Paint is not perfect, so it's all about what you can live with. I'd say it's about a $10k car.
 
Thanks guys! Here's a link to a short video the seller sent me... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yiYhQZEiL1Q&feature=youtu.be

I saw that Florida car and it's beautiful! And 2.5X the price of this one.... Also, It's actually too nice. I need that wonderful in between of a show car/ trailer queen and a daily driver/beater, where you can still respectably take it to a show and you won't be scared to death to leave it on display somewhere while to do something else.... This one might fit the bill....

What identifies the 1275 vs 1098 vs 948 engine? I've read the smaller two have a removable plate to access the lifters and the 1275 does not. Where would that be? I'm sure the seller would take a couple pics for me. Also, where exactly should the numbers be... are they stamped in the block or on a plate attached to it? I'm really leaning toward a trip to see this one.... It's about 6.5 hours...
 
Well if you are going to drive that far it is only a hop skip and jump to the other one. You may get the NC car for $10K, but I believe you will have to spend a lot more after purchase to make it decent.
I don't believe the other on is worth $24,995 either, but I would try to buy it with a best offer of $19K to @20K. Also in my opinion you get what you pay for.
 
All good advice, I'm sure, and I agree that car should be 18k - 20k... but the bank account dictates what I can do. I'd be saving another couple years for that one.... and by that time I doubt it would be 20k anymore....
 
That is kind of my point. If you can get it for under $20K you can have a really nice Bugeye with no immediate worries, keep it for awhile or a long while while Bugeyes keep getting more valuable and you could resell it for probably more then you paid for it as long as you maintain it in good condition. I just like to see people get really good Bugeyes and this looks like one of thiose.
 
The seller took a look around the engine while I was speaking with him... he said there are two access panels for the lifters under the carbs at the top of the block, and there does not appear to be a vent to the top as mentioned in the video, so I'm guess it's a 948 car....

Now just trying to decide whether to go see it....
 
mikeamondo said:
The seller took a look around the engine while I was speaking with him... he said there are two access panels for the lifters under the carbs at the top of the block, and there does not appear to be a vent to the top as mentioned in the video, so I'm guess it's a 948 car....

Now just trying to decide whether to go see it....
Click to expand...

The world is full of people who jumped at the first car they saw and regretted it. Bugeyes are like busses - there is always another one coming. I am not saying this one is worth buying or not but I will say that you have lived this long without one - another few months won't make a difference. There are tons out there with 1275 engines and there are lots of ways to have a car inspected without you having to travel all over the country. Take your time, learn, make some connections and know that there truly is no rush!
 
Agree with JP.
Is there any forum member close to the car that can look it over. Pics look pretty good but some of the underside pics say rust is coming through or ready to. If someone near to it could assess the condition of the problem spots that would be worth a lot. Of course....if you like road trips!

Kurt.
 
So.... decided to wait a while. Thanks for all the advice and knowledge. I'll be lurking on here and asking more questions, I'm sure. The Bugeye is certainly the car we want, but I'm probably a season too early for what we want to do... Need more money in the bank, and a bit more infrastructure in place here to house and transport the car than we have right now. That being said, if an irresistible deal pops up close to me, I'll likely be all in!
 
Looks quite honest and original - I am not at all sure what the new metal is though. Pic number ending 50.58 and 50.01 - second and third from right third row.

I see a sheet metal screw that seems odd in 50.58 and a covering of the bottom brace in 50.01 that implies that this is laid over but not attached (except by screws) - might be right but I can't think of any sheet metal that meets that description.
 
Mike,
The floors have been replaced with flat sheet metal which takes away much needed leg room. Your pictures show a lot, but you need to focus on the spring hangers, sills, A pillars, dog legs, etc...these are the areas most prone to rust.
Rut
 
And the hardest to fix. Floors are drilling out half a gazillion spot welds but once you are done reassembly is quick and easy. Rear Bulkhead where floor meets the bottom of the bulkhead and the rear suspension is attached back there. I gave one almost away after 3 years of ownership as I didn't want to deal with the rust I found back there where the critical rear suspension attaches to the Bulkhead. Body shop that did repairs previously covered up the lack of structure with Seam Sealer.
 
Try Bugeyeguy in CT. He has a good inventory of Cars
 
So I see what you mean about the flat floors... at least, it looks to me like perhaps the passenger side has a flat sheet and the drivers side may have the proper floor? Maybe I'm looking at it wrong. I was also curious about the fresh looking metal on the centers and cross members. I wonder if it's been added to cover up some surface rust in the area. The pics were sent by the seller... car is in Northern Vermont.
 
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