• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Adjusting the Parking Brake

Share this page

Dadandson

Dadandson

Jedi Trainee
Offline
It looks like the only adjustment to the cable is at the rear axle. My cable is pretty well rusted. What in the world do I use to get it loose? I have been soaking it in penetrating oil but I cannot get a wrench on it. I thought about modifying a socket but I am not sure that would work. It looks like I have plenty of cable to adjust.
 
I will be interested to hear what others have to say about this. I don't believe that there is an adjustment to my cable. By adjusting the mounting nut on the axle, all you are doing is moving the sleeve. The cable stays the same length. Doesn't make sense to me????
 
Not the "cable" but the sleeve but we all call it adjusting the hand brake cable because you move the sleeve out and this makes the length of the cable shorter.
They are tricky, loosen the lock nut and use pliers or vice grips to turn the sleeve since it's just about impossible to get a wrench on the inner nut. Many times, you can turn the inner nut with the edge of a wrench.
 
And it is best if you can get your old cable working because there are reports that the replacement cables stretch quickly.
 
Might be a good idea to remove the handbreak leaver from inside and remove the clevis for the cable and then soak the whold thing in gasoline or something to get it all clean and free before lubeing and reinstalling and adjusting.
 
I felt like an idiot staring at the cable for hours while trying to turn the nut 1/99th at a time. I was embarassed that I couldn't figure out how moving the sleeve made a difference. Suddenly it was aparent to me- then I promptly forgot.

Try some CLP (Clean Lubricate Protects) and let it soak for a couple of days. I've had good luck with this stuff in the past. You can sometimes find it in the gun cleaning supplies. Try to soak it in a butter dish- if your creative you can do this while on the car with the rear wheel removed.
 
Same principle as in adjusting bicycle brakes: making the sleeve longer has the same effect as making the cable shorter. It's the difference in length between the cable and sleeve that is important, not simply the length of the cable.
 
While I agree that removing the cable and soaking is a good idea, I am not sure I can get the darn thing off due to age. I think I am going to machine an extended socket to try and grip the nut inside the mount. I will update everyone with my results.
 
Tim,
Since I am going to be doing this whole process soon, I look forward to reading your results. Please keep us informed as you work through the removal and adjusting.
Charlie
 
A pair of vice grips and a cressent wrench should take that sucker right off. Of course you will need a pair of pliers to remove the pin at either end.

This is not a big deal guys.
 
It depends on how rusty it is. If your engine had a healthy oil leak, then it should be easy.

I used a dremel with a wire brush to clean the dirt and rust, and then let it soak in penetrating oil overnight. Then it was easily removed.
 
I cleaned all the grease and oil off of mine and it was in pristine shape! A good healthy oil leak does help with rust prevention.
 
Back
Top