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TR2/3/3A Adjustable Upper Fulcrum for TR3

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BillBTR3A

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Don't know if the link below for Moss UK will come through but I got an email ad from them this week for an adjustable upper fulcrum kit. Seems this would be a fine addition to the handling of a basically stock TR3A. Moss UK part number is: 200659X at a cost of ÂŁ122.46.

Has anyone used these? Are they worth the investment? Is there a stateside source, as Moss US does not list them?

View adjusted front upper fulcrum kit:
https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Browse/Plat...componentID=530
NFI,
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B"
www.triumphowners.com/1566 <https://www.triumphowners.com/1566>
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow" M.Andretti[/font]
 
Bill- Just as easy to buy from UK as Goleta, CA
 
That kit been around for years. I first saw it offered by Revington TR. Once you get the camber set, you have to weld it so it doesn't move. Of course, you should use the later A-Arms and ball joint, along with the 3° trunnion to introduce some much needed caster.

The idea of getting some camber in the early TRs is good, as modern tires like some negative camber.
 
Doesn't welding sort take the word "Adjustable" out of the product?

Bill B
 
BillBTR3A said:
Doesn't welding sort take the word "Adjustable" out of the product?

Bill B
Click to expand...

Well, yes it does, but once set properly, it really shouldn't need any adjustment later on. After all, Triumph never had <span style="font-weight: bold">any </span>suspension adjustments except toe on the TR3-4s. However, quote from the Revington site: " Once set, a top plate provided is welded in place to secure the assembly (extra top plates are available should future alteration be required)."
 
You could drill and tap the ends of the loops and use screws as adjusters against the mounting bolts instead of welding the top plates.
 
If you are going to use the upper A arms from a TR4, this is how I modified mine. The added area is a bit larger than I needed. If your can move the upper ball joint inward about 3/8" or so you should get about a 1/2 degree neg. camber (if I remember correctly). Use some washers on the outside of the A arm, once you get the camber where you want it, tighten the bolts and weld the washers to the A arm. Not adjustable but it will made a huge improvement in getting the front to stick, specially if you go to wider rims and modern rubber.

7934786414_72b9120a77.jpg
 
IIRC, the "adjustable camber" kits will only give you standard to more negative camber, but will not adjust in the positive-camber direction. More positive camber isn't something that's needed often, though, except for accident or severe misalignment repair.

To hijack this thread a little: Are TR6 front suspension parts worth putting on a TR3 for street use ?
 
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