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go_inbroke

go_inbroke

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I just happened upon an add for an oil additive called ZDDPLUS. I have seen products before with zinc and phos. but never this one. has anyone used this product? It states that it should be used in older engines with flat tappet lifters. I use Shells Rotella to get the additives with the oil. I have found very few retailers online that sell this product. Is this something I need to look at?
 
That is the oil I run now. I am able to purchase it locally from the local farm and tractor store inexpensively. Has anyone heard of or used the ZDDPLUS?
 
Never heard of it 'til now, but take a look at their website. If the site is correct, and you think you need the ZDDP, then their product makes sense.

https://www.zddplus.com/index.htm

There's been a *lot* of discussion on zddp here on BCF over the last few months.

Tom
 
I know you can order it from Moss. I e-mailed the ZDDPlus site to ask where I can buy it closer to home. I got a reply the same day that a Jag restoration shop in Toronto sells it and can supply it to me here in Montreal at a reasonable price.
 
If you get the Rotella Triple T, it has the zinc and phos in it. That's what the machine shop and cam specs call for as break in oil. For my new engine, that is.
 
Even Rotella has changed their zinc content since diesels now have catalytic convertors. So check the API spec or add GM EOS to be certain. Add 3oz per oil change.
 
I bought a 4oz(ZDDPLUS) bottle from Moss.$9.95 + $7.50S&H(they recommend it)I'm about to add it to 5 quarts of QuakerState with Slick50 included in the quarts of QuakerState.You can find this specialty oil at WalMart($3.33 a quart).but there minimum order(Moss) is $10.00 so you need to order by phone...I've got 500 mi on my new motor & cam & the addition of the ZDDP will definatly help the cam lobes.
Ken&Whitelightning...Today while sitting in the warmspring 73 sun I prepped her for the summer drive,hard top is off the soft top is out of its nest & warming up.
 
Peter,

I did. It's what the machinist recommends and uses for break in all flat tappets. We had that huge thread about this a few weeks ago when I posed the question. The one that gave poor TR6 Bill a headache!!

The cam spec sheet calls for this as well, but ONLY for the Triple T, not the other spec. There are three others on the sheet, Delvac being one, but I can't remember the other two.
 
myspitfire - If you just re-built your engine, don't put in the Slick 50 just now. Wait till you have done at least one oil change before using it. Adding it with the second oil change after a re-build might be even better in the long term.

If you have more oil changes than this, then go ahead and use it - if that's what you want to do. Personally, I wouldn't use it because there have been lots of stories from self-proclaimed doctors in the early days in the far west who sold snake oil that was supposed to be super great for flat tappet engines.
 
Nah!Slick50's been used in ALL branches of the military for years.We used it at the motor pool when i was at Ft Lewis.
This oil i'm speaking of at WalMart is labeled QuakerStateSlick50 20w50w in quart bottles($3.33 a quart)Its right their with ALL there oils.
I've run Slick50 in all my cars since it was first introduced in 1978.,never had problems.,it was in my car all last year.And will be in my car this year.Its word of mouth reputation is unfounded.
 
Well with all the snake oil bantered about, don't for get ZMAX because Shelby puts his reputation on it.

What happened to the idea that all those cleaning additives are BAD because they reduce the space for the lubrication. The old flat tappet racing oil was not high detergent; was it not "non detergent"? You just pull the motor down often enough that sludge never had a chance to build up.
 
You can still get non-detergent oil...

Just have to ask for it.



BTW I use Yamalube motorcycle oil in my cars (and bikes).

Pricy, but because motorcycles use the same oil for the engine as gearbox the "modern" friction modifiers aren't as safe for bikes.

So Yamaha just has oil made to the earlier(pre 1988) API "SF" rating, pre-FMs.

https://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/yamalube.aspx

Your mileage may vary.
 
A man after my own heart!!!!

Pricey? out here in the middle of the Pacific it's less than 5 a quart. About the same as synthetic. I feel it's worth it.

So, see some of us TRiumph owners are NOT cheap!
 
Cheap is such an ugly word. I prefer frugal. The car was designed as the poor mans sports car and being a state worker the moniker fits. I even buy vinyl and patch my own seats. I had my kids buy me a spin-on oil filter adapter for Christmas because spin on filters are less expensive that the canisters. (I would always rather spend time than money.)
 
Moss also has an oil with sufficient ZDDP in it at a cost of $60 a case (12 qts), besides their offering of the ZDDPlus. The "Collector's Oil" is 20W50 weight, and they make a disclaimer that it's not for cat equipped cars, which means it should have enough zinc & phosphorous in it.

I opted to get the ZDDPlus from them, as I have alot of Castrol GTX 10W40 here that I'll use on initial start-up with the additive. Either way, oil changes will cost more as we have to source either appropriate oils, or put in the additives seperately.

BTW, I went on ZDDPlus' website , and buying direct from them is the same price as Moss has it for.
 
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