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TR2/3/3A Access to trafficator

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jfarris

jfarris

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Greetings to all my quarantined friends and best wishes and prayers for those who still have to go out of the house!

I am putting the finishing touches on a modification to my 56TR3 to add brake lights to the rear outer turn signal circuit. My thanks to Randall (TR3driver) for the relay schematic and much needed basic electrical education. Thanks also to Marvin Gruber who wired the car during restoration for using a portion of a TR4 wiring harness so that the needed wiring was in place. Marvin also pointed me toward color coded wiring diagrams at http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr24a.pdf which are fifty times easier to read than a Haynes Manual! If you don’t have these, make that your next stop! They also have TR 250/6.

I have a problem that I have tracked down to an issue with the right turn Green/white wire between the bullet connectors close to the left hand horn and the control head. I’ve included pictures of the steering wheel on my car and need to know how to remove the control head to the point of gaining access to the turn signal wires. The head will move slightly outwards about ½” to ¾”. Is this the way to remove it or do you have to unseal and loosen the wires going through the steering box to gain access. It appears that once you get access to the back of the unit, there are three small holding the front on the unit.

Can anyone point me to a forum thread or better instructions. I looked in the Triumph Maintenance and Haynes Manuals and learned just enough to break something.

Thanks in advance!

Wheel 1.jpgWheel 2.jpg
 
With a standard steering wheel, there are 3 small "grub" screws (what I would call setscrews) that go in through the steering wheel hub and lock the control head into place. But I don't see them in your photo.

With the grub screws backed out, you also need to loosen the wires at the steering box, so they can slide through the stator tube as you pull the head up. Easier if you have help so one can guide the wires while the other pulls. On my car, there is enough slack in the control head subharness (once it's taken loose from the clip on the inner wing) to get access to the back of the control head without disconnecting electrical connections, but YMMV.
 
Randall, you're breakin my heart!
I'll have to mull over the alternatives.
You are a great source of information for this forum!
Thanks for all the help, past and future!
Once, I have everything working, I'll review the project for everyone.
 
Hey, guys: this forum is close to my problem. My current situation is that the horn button works and the right turn signals, from and back, work. But the left turn switch on the trafficator does not work. The left turn light is good; both filaments. And I believe that the wire from the light to the trafficator (green and red) is intact. Is there a contact inside the trafficator that might need filing? And if so, can it be accessed without pulling the whole trafficator wire harness out?
Thanks for your advice.
 
You might try loosening the 3 grub screws and the nut under the apron on the stator tub that holds the selector in place, then operate the turning indicator while holding it with your hand and holding the chrome lever over to make contact to see if the left side works. I suggest this because the whole unit can be off center and not let one side work when you turn in that direction and the other side comes on too quick, so the unit needs to be centered. Holding it lets you move the centering a little.

There is a brass stud in the case that makes the connection and try and hold the unit in that direction to see if you can make contact with it.

There are many sites that show the brass stud, but I am not sure about access without dismantling.



steve
 
Guys:
I have a curious problem with my 59 TR3A turn signal warning lamp in the instrument panel: it won’t light. I tried both the old and a new Moss Motors Flasher Unit. Both blink the front and rear turn signal lights, but neither activate the instrument panel light. I use jumpers to check the bulb on the battery + and - posts, and the bulb is good. So I held the bulb threaded shaft connected to the battery negative post and, with the ignition switch on and the turn signal on, I touched the positive tip of the bulb to the P post on the flasher unit. Neither old or new flasher unit would light the bulb. Could it be both flasher units have defective P posts? Or is there something I am not recognizing in the TR3A wiring diagram.The P post on the flasher appears to connect directly to the bulb tip with a LG wire and the socket is connected to a black ground wire.

Any thoughts? Buy yet another flasher unit from Moss?

Thanks,
Don
 
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