TR2/3/3A Accererator Assembly Continuing

[DornTRoriginal]

~

I have had too much fun getting the accelerator assembly installed, I never been closer to getting it completed. I put everything back in and I want to be sure I have it correct before I finalize the installation, thank you in advance I know I have asked a lot of questions on this particular topic. I ordered new tapered pins due to shipping minimums I have a few extras so if anyone needs some I can mail them to you, I have 1/8 inch x 1/2 inch (long) and 1/8 inch x 3/4 in (long) they were $.33 ea. but the shipping was the killer at $12.00. They are small enough to fit in an envelope so I'll mail them to you if you want a couple. PM me if you’re interested.

First picture is the driver's side (lft), there's a slight gap between the bushing on the rod and the bushing inside the bracket. The second photo is on the passenger side (rt) and shows the position of the lever.

Here's my latest questions and hopefully last ones on this particular subject:

I used cotter pins to put the assembly in the car while waiting for my tapered pins to arrive and just to be sure I am doing the assembly correctly.

1. The bushing on the driver’s side is about 1/4 of an inch from sitting snug in the bracket holding the nylon bushing. The assembly seems to operate fine my question is if it is better to move the bushing over, drill a new hole to insert the tapered pin in the rod so everything fits tighter and the bushing will fit deeper into the nylon bushing.
2. I am not exactly certain how the lever arm attaches to the carburetor assembly and throttle, do I have the accelerator arm installed correctly? The way I have it installed when the gas pedal is pushed the lever goes downward and there is a good bit of travel, is the position and angle correct? I am having a hard time visualizing how everything goes back together and I have not found any good diagrams. Does anyone have a good picture of how this all gets assembled?

Thank You!

 

[trglory]

Not quite sure how you have the linkage rigged....when you press the petal, the lever arm goes up and pulls agains the return spring below. See attached pictures.

 

[DornTRoriginal]

You are right, the pedal goes down the lever goes up.....

 

[TR3driver]

The lever actually makes more of a fore/aft motion than up/down. That pulls on the bellcrank under the front carb, which in turn pulls the short front rod down and opens the throttle.

The adjustments I look for are in order:
1) The lever on the front carb should angle up at about a 45 degree angle with the throttle closed.
2) The front arm on the bellcrank should be at about the same angle.
3) The pedal should just hit the stop when the throttle is wide open.

I checked the old shaft from my (now wrecked) early TR3A, and it shows about the same amount of exposed metal outside the bushings. Since it held up just fine for maybe 300,000 miles (bushings still original AFAIK), I think that's probably OK

 

[DornTRoriginal]

Thanks, I am feeling like I got the accelerator assembly installed correctly and I will seal the deal when the tapered pins arrive. I am going to work on getting the petal assembly installed next. Randal I am sorry to hear about your TR3A being wrecked, tragic. :sorrow::sour:

 

[TR3driver]

Randal I am sorry to hear about your TR3A being wrecked, tragic. :sorrow::sour:

Not to worry, that was a long time ago. Bound to happen eventually, driving every day on LA-area freeways. Typical off rush hour traffic jam; we'd all been rolling along at 70+ mph then had to come to a stop. The guy behind me was a long way back, so I assumed he'd have no problem getting stopped; but it turned out he was distracted (I overheard him tell the CHP that he was getting a Coke) and didn't stop. I tried to get out of his way, but was too slow. 4 car chain collision, but I was the only one with serious damage.
Crushed the trunk, bent the apron in until it touched a front tire, and shortened the body a few inches at the A & B-posts. The doors still worked sorta, though, I guess they're stronger than they look. I discovered later that one of the front suspension mounts tore away from the frame as well. But I was fine, didn't get so much as a sore neck out of that one.

 

[NutmegCT]

<snip>
Crushed the trunk, bent the apron in until it touched a front tire, and shortened the body a few inches at the A & B-posts. The doors still worked sorta, though, I guess they're stronger than they look. I discovered later that one of the front suspension mounts tore away from the frame as well. But I was fine, didn't get so much as a sore neck out of that one.

Wow - sure glad you survived. In a way, sounds like your TR was a "bumper to bumper" crumple zone - and a very effective one at that.

 

[tedwone]

OUCH! Do you plan to part the car out? I am in need of a very small piece of sheet metal, low and in front of the left rear wheel well.

Ted
56 TR3
59 TR3A (2)
60 TR3A
33 Standard
62 Jaguar MK2

 

[TR3driver]

Sorry, it's already gone. I tried to give the body & frame away after stripping it, but they eventually went to the crusher.

 

[sp53]

That is insubordination Randal

 

[DornTRoriginal]

I am stuck and frustrated…
I put everything together but when I try to install the spring return it's just not right. The first picture is the lever and the gas petal is in the idle position the second two pictures the gas petal is pushed to the floor or in a full throttle position.

When the pedal is pushed all the way to the floor, BTW the bolt/pedal stop on the floor is not installed, the lever arm is not raised enough to engage the spring at all. When the pedal is at rest or in what I would think is the idle position, the arm is just about parallel with the slope/contour of the fire wall and the spring is not at all in a position to be useful. (I checked and it's the correct spring) In looking at the pictures TRglory posted the arm looks like it is in an idle position, the spring is not stretching and it is a good fit sitting at a 90 degree angle to the firewall, I assume when the pedal is pushed the spring is engaged as the arm lifts. Not so in my case. What am I missing here? There are only two ways I figure to install the arm on the shaft, the pedal and shaft can only go in one way through the drivers side of the floor/firewall, if I install the arm 180 degrees from where it sits now the arm would hit the fire wall when the pedal is pushed to the floor and the spring would be too short. Are the holes in the shaft incorrect? When the body shop bent the shaft and attempted to fix it did the whole assembly get ruined? I am also going to see if I can find a replacement I just can't figure this out Arrrrrhhh!
This is really crazy! Thank you for your assistance. I am in an argument with myself over this... what the heck is wrong?

 

[TR3driver]

Definitely way off, but looks more like 90 degrees to me. Could one of the pins be sheared? Or maybe someone drilled an extra hole in a shaft? There were (at least) two different setups used, could you have a mixture of parts?

The arm does stand nearly straight up, and as I recall will hit the firewall if the pedal stop is removed. The return spring gets stretched a long way even when the pedal is all the way up.

 

[charles brooks]

I'm putting my assembly back in this weekend and would love to have a pin for the passenger side if still available. Thanks much.
Charles

 

[sp53]

TRglory’s picture that he posted here on this question is spot on. Somehow yours is assembled incorrect; perhaps both pins are installed 180 out.

 

[DornTRoriginal]

Thanks everyone, I'm on track now that I found out that the shaft can be twisted... I was able to put the assembly in a vise, as suggested by Marv and eluded by others, and twist it into the correct position. I would never have thought that was possible! Now I just need to get it back into the car. I am sending Charles some pins, I hope he has better luck than I have had with them, my guess is the hole needs to be tapered to fit the pin correctly, which I was not able to do. The tapered pins and the over sized pin did not fit they were either too large and would not seat or too small and fell right out, so I scraped that idea. I decided to thread the holes in the shaft with a 8-32 tapered tap and inserted a socket head cap screw with a lock nut. It seems to be a secure fit and I was able to remove everything while I struggled with the poor alignment issues.

Wow this exercise has cost me a lot of time on ward! Thanks again for all the help I'd still be fussing over stuff with out the assistance!!

 

[trglory]

When you get it all back in the car and hooked up, post some pictures and let us know if the range of motion in the assembly feels right to you. Install the limiter bolt under the pedal so you can see how far the crank rod pulls the return spring.

Many of us on this forum have already done one or more full restorations. We know what looks wrong because we made plenty of mistakes during the process .... that's how you learn. You read the ROM, look at pictures and keep redoing it until you get it right. And when you run out of ideas, you ask the group. Between all of us, we probably know at least 10,000 things not to do, so keep asking questions and we'll do our best to help you get where you want to be.

 

[blhazzard]

For TR4A

Sorry ... late to this thread but I removed the pedal rod assembly to replace the nylon bearings and noticed the support bracket had cut a groove into the shaft due to the nylon bearings being worn so much.
Also the shaft was bent and corroded so much bushing would not come off ...
I am afraid this shaft is going to fail at some point.

I was considering replacing these parts with new (or newish) parts however no one seems to have bushings and shaft assemblies. Moss and VictoriaBritish do not show the parts as available...

Does anyone have the following parts in new or newish shape.
As long as the parts are restorable and not bent I am willing to pay as I plan to clean and chrome them.

1) Accelerator pedal shaft assembly
2) BUSH on pedal shaft
3) BUSH on pedal shaft with throttle arm
4) Support Bracket, Pedal shaft assembly
5) Mounting plate for accelerator rod bearing (four required)

Also I was considering modifying the support bracket to accept a bushing to prevent this grooving again.
Found a bronze 3/8:1/2 (idd) bushing to insert into the bracket...
Any comments ?