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About these fluid leaks?

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So alright now. The Crypt Car looks like it is finally
restored to the point of decent reliabilty. I no longer
have a flatbed on standby and Wendy by the phone when I
attempt to drive Crypty.

The car was a leaking mess when we got it. I have now
replaced every fluid seal and gasket from the engine
rearward plus all new brake master and wheel cylinders,
new clutch master and slave cylinders and new hydraulic
hoses.

I had no leaks, dry garage floor. I've driven Crypty now
maybe like 250 miles and now I have leaks again. Is this
just a way of life for a TR6 as some folks post in fun?

Should I just add fluids and drive the car? Or dig into
again and start replacing seals and gaskets. The second
time around will take me far less times than the first
go at it.

I have no frame of reference for comparison.
TRBill- does your award winning TR leak in your garage?

All opinions and help welcomed as always,

dale /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/driving.gif /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thankyousign.gif
 
Dale, my differential was professionally rebuilt by The Roadster Factory. It leaks. My overdrive was professionally rebuilt by Quantum Mechanics. It leaks.

All the seals on my engine have been changed by me.
Guess what. It doesn't leak.
 
Oh, and by the way. Wherever there is a leak, Hylomar was used. Wherever there is no leak, Permatex Aviation was liberally used. I am convinced that sealants such as Hylomar work fine when there is a high-tolerance, machined mating surface. Go figure.
 
Where'd you find the Hylomar, Bill? I've checked the usual suspects, and all I got were blank stares and mumbling of something that sounded like, "Wuzzat?"
 
Hey guess what. Me too. My engine was professionally rebuilt. It leaks...

My diff came from the breakers yard. It doesn't. Perhaps it needs oil /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
Edit: Oh I forgot - it's Japanese not British.
 
Mickey Richaud said:
Where'd you find the Hylomar, Bill? I've checked the usual suspects, and all I got were blank stares and mumbling of something that sounded like, "Wuzzat?"
Click to expand...

NAPA had it the last time I bought a tube. I see where https://www.hylomar-usa.com lists it online. Spensive.
 
The bottom cast aluminum plate on my overdrive leaks like a sieve. I have pulled the plate and noticed that it is not what I would call a precision fit anymore. Surfaces are scarred, etc. Refit a new paper gasket and Hylomar-ed it and torqued to spec. Still leaks. I live with it. That's why they make SuperClean, degrease my garage floor on a regular basis. I have found that if you use Permatex Aviation, and let it tack for an hour, then lightly recoat all surfaces, the are no leaks. Especially areas like timing chain cover and oil pan. I even (shudder) put some Aviation on the water jacket side of my head gasket. Worked well. Ya gotta be careful when you do this, though.
 
If you want blue hylomar, there is a guy on https://www.ebay.co.uk who sells it in lots of three large tubes - cost about seven pounds including shipping, and arrived in a week. There is an auction ending in a few hours - item number 290101584315. No financial interest, just a satisfid customer.

Cheers
Alistair
 
Thanks, Alistair - will check it out.
 
Thanks Bill,

I have been using the Permatex ever since you
recommended it when I had to pull off the valve
cover.

I think I'll drive the Beast a bit more until I put
it back up on Jack stands. It will soon be summer and
too bloody hot to drive with tops down. Kinda in reverse
to all the cold weather folks.

d
 
Which Permatex Aviation is recommended, gents? I see there are several types!

Before I took my car into the shop for a bumper to bumper inspection, it didnt leak at all... now the dif leaks, and the engine leaks around the valve cover.

So I need to take matters into my own hands, I suppose.

Thanks!
Aldwyn
 
There's only one Permatex Aviation to my knowledge. It comes in a white plastic can with an applicator brush in the cap. It is a thick, syrupy brown liquidy solution. The best way to use it is to apply it liberally onto the gasket, let it tack for an hour, recoat lightly and assemble. The excess can be cleaned up with a solvent if (when) it squeezes out. The trick is to figure out the right amount to apply. Do NOT use the Permatex that comes in a tube that is thicker. This stuff is nasty, hardens and is tough to work with. Same color, but looks like Siberian toothpaste.
 
Oh, and if you can't find Hylomar, I have a brand new tube, still in the bubble pack, that I can sell. Now, if indeed it is unobtainable on the open market, my offer quickly becomes a black market deal and is open to the highest bidder! Capitalist that I am.

The stuff is out there, just hard to find. I hate it.
 
Another good sealer is Permatex Anaerobic Gasket Maker #51813. This was only aviable at one time through Aviation sources. Over the last few years most auto parts places have this now. This was originaly used for places where no gasket is used. But this makes a good gasket sealer. Hyolmar I use to find a Napa but have not for awhile. You can get through Aircraft Spruce and Specialty Co.

Don
 
Ok, so looks like #3 is what you are talking about then! Thanks!

Just bought some off ebay... lets see if it works better then the cheap stuff I buy in the packets at the counter of the parts store. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
 
Leaks were standard equipment on all TR6 models, both home and abroad. I'm not sure what year they made rattles and genuine unreliability standard but I think it was some time in the late 50's, around the time they introdused cramped quarters, and wheel hop.
 
roofman said:
Leaks were standard equipment on all TR6 models, both home and abroad. I'm not sure what year they made rattles and genuine unreliability standard but I think it was some time in the late 50's, around the time they introdused cramped quarters, and wheel hop.
Click to expand...

easy there roofman, you sound like an infiltrator from a frustrated Alfa Romeo forum.
 
It seems minor fluid leaks are again the least
of my problems. Major set-back .
 
First a bit of advice to help your leak, then some updates.

Next time you take the bottom plate off. If it is like I remember(and it's been quite a while, so my recollection may be awry) you can take the sealing surface, find a flat surface(big sheet of glass or metal work bench, like saw top(pull the blade down) cover the surface with light sandpaper or emery cloth(tape it down to the surface) use a light cutting oil and "sand" the upside down bottom cover, like it is a sanding block, when it looks fairly even, without high spots, take a little machinists dye(blue in a little tube available at almost every parts house) coat the edges lightly and check for fit. Should have a lot better seal.

Clean the bolt hole threads in the bottom of the od, and when you reinstall it, use a LIGHT coat of the latest, greatest sealant. It's called "The Right STuff" black silicone like, by Permatex, Ain't cheap but worth every penny. It basically has taken the place of Hylomar in my usage. It will not harden where the parts are frozen together forever, it works with fluids(but it is best to give it a 4-5 hour cure time)But I resealed a number of MB front timing chain covers where there was essentially less than 1/2 hour cure time. It is anaerobic so it helps seal any minor imperfections, pores in the metal.

Then your seals. ANY time you take a LBC seal off, go to your nearest Bearing Supply store, with either the old seal, or the dimensions of where the seal goes,i.e, od,id, thickness, lips, springs, etc. They most frequently, can provide you with a seal that SEALS. I used Moss, TRF seals on my tailshaft, front cover of engine and diff pinion seals. Moss first, TRF after the Moss started leaking, then upgraded usually with Chicago Rawhide. No more seal leakage.
 
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