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AAARGH! Electrical?

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terriphill

Darth Vader
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We finally got the time today to get back out to the garage and fix up an exhaust leak. After getting it all together, we turned the key to crank it and nothing...ignition light, click. Dash lights work and tested the power to the ignition relay seems fine. You can cross the starter and it kicks over, but won't engage.
Battery is fuly charged. Is this a ground problem, wiring problem? It was running two weeks ago but had a bad exhaust leak where the header met up with the the new exhaust and that is the only thing we messed with today.
What do we check next?
 
Oh, the horn has quit working too!
 
Somehow you have a bad connection from the batt. to.......... or a bad ground.........
 
The only ground I am aware of is the one attached where the transmission and motor meet and then attaches to the body. Our first thought was ground issue and we tightened it up. Nope.
I know our biggest problem is that the DPO has really messed with this car. Trying to go by the wiring diagrams has been lots of fun. This is an 80 B that is closer to the 76 -77 diagrams. (Sort of a mix of the 2)
I can hear the feul pump tick, tick tick, then click as the ignition light comes on..then nothing. DITW!
Could the starter solenoid relay or ignition relay have gone bad sitting in the garage? Is there a way to direct wire them (bypass)to see if they are the problem?
(No we have not replaced them)
Could it be a short?
 
Terri;
First a question, does the car turn over or no response at all?
If no response, check the connections of the small wires on the starter to see if a little corrosion is the issue.
I'm inclined to believe it is no more than a small wire connection that is causing this problem

Dave :savewave:
 
No it does not turn over at all. If you recall we occasionally had this problem and thought it was the battery connections. Those have been replaced. It was turning over and running...now nothing...no clicks, no whirs, no sounds....
OK....on to the starter.

Thanks Dave.

BTW let us know if you get in contact with Dale.
 
when you cross the connections on the starter it works?
That tells me it is a loose or corroded wire end at the starter.
Or if the ign. is not sending the signal to the starter, it will not turn over.

Hope this helps.

Dave

P.S. When I find out about Dale, I'll be sure to let you know
 
Cool! That really heps to narrow it down. I kinda dreaded getting out those diagrams again :smile:
I'll let you know tomorrow if that works!

Maybe we'll get it out of the garage by the end of the week. It will be one year on the 28th since we bought her and I am feeling the pressure to get her out into the sun before her birthday!
 
I'm guessing a bit, cause long distance does that, but I hope it works out for you.
Don't get into a rush to finish,as the car will never know.

Dave :savewave:
 
Well, I know it is going to be something simple like that...unfortunately I don't always know where's the easiest place to start looking and end up tracing it from point A until I find it. (Get out the diagrams, follow the paths...) Sometimes I get lucky and its at point B, other times I spend days tracing these things down.
Is there anything I should do with the connections that would help eliminate these types of corrosion issues? WD? sandpaper? steel wool?

Thanks for your insight!
 
Sandpaper is always a good bet on the wire ends.
Once they are done it usually lasts a good long time.
On that wiring diagram, there should be a wire that goes directly to the starter. If this is the problem, that should be the wire to fix.

Good Luck

Dave :savewave:
 
Take the entire circuit and each connection though the cleaning process I like...a quick spray of PB Blaster to break the rust, a short scrub with a copper wire or wire brush, a rinse with a good degreaser or detergent spray (maybe another scrub with the brush if it is greasy) and rinse with WD40 and repeat if necessary. A touch of dielectric grease and reconnect and move on to the next one. I keep a bottle of Dawn Power Desolver and s few shop towels handy to wipe the entire wire with as I go...it is amazing how much gunk comes off those 35 YO wires.

While you are there, take time to look carefully at the primary battery cable and remember that the ground side is part of the circuit, too!
 
Wow! WIll that ever help! Thanks! Terri
 
terriphill said:
The only ground I am aware of is the one attached where the transmission and motor meet and then attaches to the body. Our first thought was ground issue and we tightened it up. Nope.
I know our biggest problem is that the DPO has really messed with this car. Trying to go by the wiring diagrams has been lots of fun. This is an 80 B that is closer to the 76 -77 diagrams. (Sort of a mix of the 2)
I can hear the feul pump tick, tick tick, then click as the ignition light comes on..then nothing. DITW!
Could the starter solenoid relay or ignition relay have gone bad sitting in the garage? Is there a way to direct wire them (bypass)to see if they are the problem?
(No we have not replaced them)
Could it be a short?
Click to expand...

The only real difference between the wiring in a '80 and the wiring in a '76 or '77 is the ignition relay. Have you looked at the wiring diagrams provided at https://www.advanceautowire.com ?
 
What happens when you pull the white/red wire off the relay and touch it to one of the brown leads at the fuse box? (Make SURE the car is in neutral when you try this!)

Starter relays are dirt cheap and available from any auto parts store. They come in different shapes and different manufacturers, but they have the same connections and do the same job. You have another one just like it on your '80 B - for the radiator fans. You could try switching them.

Regarding ground connections, if you've already cleaned and tightened connections at the battery and engine ground cable, have a look at the other end of the battery ground lead where it attaches to the body. I would remove the securing bolt, and clean the surfaces where the lead meets the body down to shiny bare metal.

Cheers,
Allen
 
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