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A Type OD Questions

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Geo Hahn

Geo Hahn

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Just finished installing an A Type OD in the TR4 (I look like I've been in hand-to-hand combat with a gorilla) and have a couple of questions...

As with almost any project, I've ended up with parts left over. Am I correct that the big metal donut that was hanging from the tailshaft of the non-OD unit is not needed on the OD tailshaft? I'm guessing the weight of the OD serves the same purpose.

The transmission is freshly rebuilt. All works well except I am having difficulty shifting into 2nd (either up-shift or down-shift). Clutch is releasing fine as 1st and Reverse are no problem. Is it likely this is caused by new synchros and will improve over time?

In any case, I'm going to drive is some and see if it improves (if only because I need a long rest before doing anything else).
 
If you mean the harmonic damper that mounts on the tailshaft with a clamp type bracket, yes I think you need it. At least it belongs on a Tr4 "A Type" OD transmission. Mine came with it.
 
Geo, mine also had this hung on the back. I have it removed before I start installing mine, but it would be nice to know if we need it. I don't recall seeing one on a TR6 and I couldn't fine one listed in Moss or VB. I will hang onto it, in case we need. Wayne
 
Geo, I feel for you. I recall a sore back, cut knuckles, scraped forearms, hair full of grease, a bruise on my forehead, and a tremendous feeling of lack of accomplishment.

But, I'd think you need that donut balancer. I assume it goes on the OD tranny with no problem? I called Moss about mine, and a guy there I trust said it controls vibration and was included in later models.

About 2nd gear, I don't know, but I've heard that new syncros become smoother over time. I wouldn't think that means a great deal of time, and the shifting should not be "difficult."
 
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I recall a sore back, cut knuckles, scraped forearms, hair full of grease, a bruise on my forehead, and a tremendous feeling of lack of accomplishment.



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You described perfectly the installation of a transmission on a Triumph. Since mine has to come out again, I have opted for the easy way out (sorta). I am pulling the whole engine unit. Except for lots of prep work, the actual removal is a piece of cake compared to pushing a tranny alone out.
 
I put an OD in my TR3A four or five years ago. Shifting into second and third was a real bear and required quite a bit of effort during the first driving season. The second season it got a little better. Now it shifts very smoothly, as it should.
 
Encouraging to hear that you experienced something similar... I will give it some time and lots of in-town driving.

John E built the unit so I will ask him about the tailshaft damper next time I have him on the phone. I always *assumed* it was used on non-ODs to compensate for the lack of weight in the rear half of the gearbox... but I have never actually seen (much less driven or worked on) a TR OD until this week.

Anyway, the tunnel cover, etc aren't going back on for awhile until I'm comfortable with everything.

I do plan to cut access panels for future servicing of the solenoid & right-angle drive (came with one so I am using it for now). Will also add a discreet light that will illuminate when OD is engaged... with no heater I have lots of extra holes in the dash support where the heater controls would have been.

Once/if the synchros do wear in I expect I should drain the box and examine the oil for gold-dust... and if present possibly clean the internal filter?

Was very nice to take a smooth cruise at 85 mph yesterday. Out here the speed limit is 75 so traffic pretty much moves in the 80-85 range.

Thanks for the comments, any other advice welcome.
 
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Will also add a discreet light that will illuminate when OD is engaged...

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I added one in my dash to tell me when the OD is engaged. Amazing how handy this comes in. Found a small plastic tube-shaped light with an LED in the end and two wires coming out the back. Drilled a small hole in the dash and the light self-tightens and fits flush. Very discreet, very handy.
 
Geo,
I haven't purchased an A OD box yet but it's on my 'to do' list when I get home in May. Way too much highway driving (from Wickenburg) to anywhere. I'm not familiar with the name of the individual that rebuilt your unit, is he local or one of the vendors regularly dealing in OD's?
I'll be wrestling it in myself too so expect some questions in 6 months or so. Agree about the tunnel mods and I'll do the same, anything to save low crawling around.
 
Geo:

After a thousand miles or so drain the transmission (hex plug) and OD (big brass plug). The transmission filter is nothing more than a magnet on the underside of the brass plug. You will be amazed at the amount of swarf that the magnet attracted. Wash the magnet in solvent and reinstall. Other than the initial big splash when the brass plug is removed, it is no big deal. I reused the gasket on the plug with no problems. It takes just shy of 2 quarts to refill. If John E. rebuilt your unit, then you will no doubt use 30W non detergent!

Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana
 
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I'm not familiar with the name of the individual that rebuilt your unit, is he local or one of the vendors regularly dealing in OD's?

[/ QUOTE ]

It's from John Esposito at Quantum mechanics:

https://www.quantumechanics.com/

I considered one of the alternatives but that British electric OD is such a traditional period piece... plus saying 'Laycock de Normanville' is way cooler than saying 'Toyota'.

A Lou notes, it has John's recommended 30W non-detergent oil, Thanks Lou for the tip on the big brass plug.
 
Actually under the big brass plug you will find a cup shaped metal screen and a set of three large washer shaped magnets. You should clean these because, as Lou reports, all kinds of stuff is gathered by the magnets and the screen. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif
 
Geo,
Right, I've been looking at his site and heard nothing but positive comments regarding his work. I too have gone thru the trad OD/ mod conv. thing. Looking for an A type OD.
 
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