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A question about horns

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Randy Harris

Randy Harris

Jedi Warrior
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'66 BJ8 - My low horn appears to be on the fritz. Wiring is correct. High note works fine. Low note will sound occasionally. I've inspected the horn but other than one large screw that exposes the metal membrane inside, I cannot identify any serviceable parts. Anyone out there know if our horns can indeed be worked on or are they disposable - best replaced with new ones?
Thanks
Randy
 
Thanks John for the link

I contacted Laurie Rhoads, the proprietor of this rebuilding service. Nice and knowledgeable guy. He charges $50 per horn plus shipping from MA. That's for identical replacement units, already rebuilt and refinished or for your own fully rebuilt Lucas 9H horns. Replacement horns are readily available from the usual suspects for anywhere from $25 to $30 each. I asked why I would rebuild at twice the amount of new and he said that the horns being sold today are not original Lucas units, they're mostly Asian knockoffs - some ok, some not so good - even made of plastic. Originality has great importance to many Healey owners and they will pay to save their horns.
Just thought you folks would like to know the rest of the story. I haven't decided what I'm going to do. It would be nice to keep as much of my original car together as possible. But twice the cost of new seems a bit high to me. Hmm...
Randy '66 BJ8
 
[ QUOTE ]
But twice the cost of new seems a bit high to me.

[/ QUOTE ]

Think of the resale value! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif I guess you can order a pair from someone who has a good return policy (like Moss) and then make your decision. BTW, fifty bones for a refurbished Lucas horn doesn't sound like much money to me and since you have one that still works it would match!

p.s. have you tried moving the adjuster back and forth?
 
Well Randy, before you give up all of those dollars,you might try adjusting the horn there is a small screw on it that may allow you to get it to work all the time. I have repaired a number of them it is not dificult and if you are sneaky you can hide the entry using # 2 X 1/4" sheet metal screws-Fwiw--Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
If adjusting doesn't work then unrivetting to clean the points and re-riveting is not hard. They are standard 1/8" or at least mine were !
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/england.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/england.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thirsty.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thirsty.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/england.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/england.gif
 
randy, yes moss has a good return ploicy and on this particular item (horns) you will be using it! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif
 
If originality is important to you then take Andrew's advice and rebuild them yourself. If you fix your own horns, you've taken originality one step beyond using replacement factory horns.

I haven't read the article at the link above but I've rebuilt horns for several LBCs by drilling out the rivets, sanding the points and adjusting them after reassembly. (I don't think the neighbors were happy though). I replace the rivets using 6-32 socket head screws in case I need to get "in there" again.
 
I've sent the horns off to be reconditioned. Lawrie Rhoads is the fellow in Mass. He will drill out the rivets, recondition whatever needs to be done and then seal them up using machine head screws. He also finishes the horns to as new condition.
Since I get essentially free shipping both ways through my steeply discounted FedEx business acct., the actual cost of doing this versus buying new repros and paying shipping is very close. And I get to keep my original horns. Thanks all, especially to John Loftus for the referral.
Randy '66 BJ8.
 
Hi Randy,

Glad to help out. I'm surprised they use machine screws for reassembly /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif I would think putting them back together with rivets would be de rigeur. I know .. I'm obsessed with this stuff /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/square.gif

Cheers,
John
 
Like I said John, you have to be sneaky. What you do is just barely remove the upset side of the rivet with a drill,the rivits remain in place.Then you prise the two halves apart making what ever repairs are required.Line all the rivets back up with their holes and press the two halves back together and the thinned rivit ends back over. Then at three locations about 120 Deg apart the tiny #2 sheet metal screws are istalled in the back side of a rivet. Get out the rattle can and spry em black and you are done.---Sneaky -Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
While working on my headlights today I noticed that the right horn seemed wobbly--on closer inspection the flange that is bolted to the chassis crossmember appears to be cracked along much of its width. Is the horn body made of pot metal or can it be welded?
 
Hi Michael, as far as I know the horn body is made of potmetal.However, the attaching brackets on mine are steel.They could be welded if they were removed from the horn body.You might use a magnet to check the broken bit out on yours though.---Keoke
 
Sorry to chime in so late on this horn thing, but I went through this a few months ago. First, don't bother with the replacement horns sold by the vendors. They're complete garbage. Don't even ask.

As for the lucas horns, play with the adjustment screw before you do anything else. I found a dead horn to be quite alive once adjusted. If you haven't done this, do it first.

If your horn is indeed dead, Lucas 9h horns, high and low, NOS and used, are regularly available for sale on ebay. They run up to $50. A quick spray of gloss black and they look like new. There is absolutely no reason to ever buy a crap plastic replacement horn.
 
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