• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

A question about Engine Temperatures

Share this page

Dale, the "big line" on the pulley wheel is indicative of Top Dead Center, any smaller lines are usually drawn or scored on the pulley indicating Before or After Top Dead Center. I have a line scored on my wheel at about 8* BFTDC (in front of the Big Line from your perspective) and marked in white paint so I can see it with the timing light. I have my timing set at 8* BFTDC ( <u>B</u>e <u>F</u>ore <u>T</u>op <u>D</u>ead <u>C</u>enter) because I am using Centrifugal Advance and not Vacuum Advance. ie, I do not have any vacuum lines set up on my distributor. Make sense?

Oh, and this is set at 1000rpm idle.
 
You can adjust the point at which the spark plugs fire, by changing the timing. I found that by adjusting the timing very slightly in the retard direction, I stopped the run on problem. Before you begin, it would be helpful to get a good shop manual and read the section on timing. You will need a timing light. Start the engine, and make sure it is at normal temp. You will be doing the adjustment at idle speed so as not to engage the centrifugal advance. Before you change the timing, point the timing light at the pulley and take note of the existing timing setting, so that you can return to this point if necessary. When you are ready, loosen the distributor and rotate the entire distributor assembly counterclockwise to retard (clockwise to advance). Point the timing light at the crankshaft pulley and you will see the timing mark move relative to the pointer as you move the distributor. It will be helpful to put a little white paint on the timing mark (I use white-out). You need to visualize the pully circumference as a circle divided into 360 degrees. Don't adjust too much, maybe only a degree at a time. Then see if the run-on condition improves. If timing is the cause, I believe only an adjustment a a few degrees ( 2 - 5) should solve your problem. If timing is not your problem, you can always return to the original setting.
 
Frank/FAD64 rings the bell and wins a Cubano cigar!!

The Crypt Car's run on??

Tank was down near 1/8 so I figured what the heck?
Fill it up with premium is lot easier that trying
out this and that with timing since old Tinster is
pretty stupid when it comes to electronics.

Drove the Crypr car around a bit ( quite a challenge
with no transmission cover and the drive shaft spinning
by my right elbow and heat of the engine frying my butt.)

Long story short- made it home to the crypt, turned off
the key and the engine stopped dead.

Two hours later; tried the same thing.
Engine stopped dead with no run-on!

Thanks frank.

d
 
That'll teach ya to throw cheap-ass gas into the Crypt car. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nonono.gif
 
Back
Top