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A pillar replacement

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Jim_Gruber

Jim_Gruber

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The DPO of Bugsy replaced the Outer Sills which are in good shape but did a Bondo Job on the A-Pillars on both side. Looks like I'm going to be able to pick up a cheap MIG Welder in the next few days and some metal work can commence on Bugsy my '68 Sprite. Being a total novice at welding is it possible to remove and replace the A-Pillars without removing the Outer Sills. From what I can see, looks like Outer Sill needs to come off to get access to the A-Pillar.

How about a good source for a Welding Plug Cutter.
 
Sills are not part of it, the A post is only a skin if that is all that is rusted. Take a look at the Moss pics.
 
Yep, Jack's correct - & I think I have an extra set on the shelf!
 
Yep, bottom 7"...think I may have them also
 
I used one of each but upon reflection I would only use the long/full length one as it dead ends under the windsheld post.
 
Jim, I replaced outer sills, "A" pillar/tapping plate, and "A" pillar skin on both the passenger side and driver's side of my '62 Sprite. All three units are separate; the skin can be replaced without replacing the sill or pillar. The sill can be replaced without replacing the pillar or skin. But, to replace the pillar/tapping pltes, you would replace the skin.

If it's just the skin that needs replacing, I'd do the whole skin rather than the lower patch panel.

There are photos of this repair being made on me web site https://www.raysmg.com under the link "The Spridget Project", Bodywork, Sep-Nov. Here's a quick link:

https://www.raysmg.com/rays_mg_midget_62_sprite_bodywork2.htm

Go to the first gallery under "October 2007".

Hope this helps,

Ray
 
Well done Ray, thanks.
 
if you replace the whole pillar skin, don't forget that the top seam (where the pillar meets the cowl by the windshield post) is lead filled. You'll need to melt it out with a torch, propane works fine, in a well-ventilated area before replacement. ask me how i know......
 
If I had to do another one. I know how I would do it now after doing both of mine. If the skin is rusted out then I would not trust the metal behind that holds the lower hinge because its bound to eaten away some too and its very thin as well. I would buy the skin patch and the lower hinge portion (or make it out of thicker metal). I made both the skin and the hinge part out of 11 gauge metal, so that it should last a long time and even if it ever rusts will take forever to eat through. I'd take the door and fender off and get one of those sheet metal cutting wheels for a skill saw and set the depth and cut through both and then use a chisel and get it all out of there. Them mig the new stuff in place and grind it smooth.
 
Folks thanks for the replies. Ray I must admire what you've taken on in redoing your car. Far more than I would ever think about attempting. I do need to replace the A post Skin and need to get in there to poke around and see what I really find under there. I do know the lower door hinge has a crack in the inside. I'm guessing that can be repaired with a torch rather than replacing the entire assembly.

Let me get back to a more basic question. I'll need to start by replacing the A Post Skin. What is the best source for a welding plug cutter or do miost simply use a 1/4" drill and drill away to free up the old skin and get it out of there?
 
Jim, any of the major tool suppliers should be able to furnish a spot weld cutter, as can body shop suppliers. My NAPA store carries them, but it may be coincidental, as they also carry paint and body supplies. Try and find the cutters that are double ended.
Jeff
 
Thanks Jeff, I just need to start looking locally. Lots of places in town to check. Just a tool I've never purchased before.
 
I'm thinking the front fender has to come off to do that repair on a Spridget???????????
 
Thanks guys, since there is a Bugeye Bonnet to be installed on my '68 Sprite along with a non rock scarred windshield that are in the back on the garage this may server to get me off of the dime in really getting this project finished. And finished before Spring. My "better half" has Bugsy's spot in the garage covered with plants trying to decide what is to be saved and wintered over. I'm hoping that exercise will be completed by tomorrow. Some work on her old Mercedes 190E that is being donated to a grand daughter. Digital Speedo just like Bugsy got and then Bugsy can get out of the cold and back into the garage. He's been outside under the car cover for the past 3+ weeks and I missed end of year driving. Since we had snow showers and highs over next 10 days are in low 40's I don't think Bugsy's going to get much more in the way of driving time in this year.
 
Jim,

You will need to take off the fender to do the job. I used VB part #19-717, 9-9758 &9-9767. To repair mine, once you get in there you will probably find the same damage and you will need a sturdy support which 9-9767 gives you once in place. This is a bit tricky to weld all the pieces together. If you are not a regular welder I would find a friend for help. Be sure to measure all the pieces if you go my route as you are removing the bottom part of the pillar from the outside rocker panel. You will also need to remove numerous spot welds from the inside sheathing.

Mark
 
Thanks Mark,

Yes a little nervous about taking everything apart to repair the A Post Skin on both sides. Hoping that what I find underneath there is not all that bad and it's just the outer skin that needs replacement. Found sources for spot weld cutters locally. Car probably won't start coming apart until after Christmas. Gotta make a judgement call for how much can I take apart, time available to work on the car, and can I get it all back together in time for Spring and a long distance Southern Trip to the Ozarks. Or I may say screw it for now redo some Bondo as a temporary fix for a while longer. Still need to fit and finish the Bugeye bonnet for Bugsy and that's probably a good 40 hours worth of work all by itself.
 
Jim,
I think it's already been mentioned, but don't be surprised to find that the lower portion of the "A" post, including the tapping plate (where the lower door hinge attaches), is prone to rust badly. Moss offers the lower tapping plate patch (#455-055 and/or #455-065) separately.

Ray
 
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