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A photo request

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Might have something to do with it Paul. Before there were several of those broken bits like in Randall's photo.

Stirkle, there is a line from the bottom of the separator that goes to the pan. Paul recently showed photos of the fitting he installed on his pan. If you have an electric pump the blocking plate could also be used.

I see Paul posted before I did.
 
Brosky said:
That is a piston with broken rings.
Click to expand...
Oddly enough, the rings were fine ... it's the piston lands (the part between the rings) that broke.

I was getting enough oil past the intake guides at hot cruise to cause ignition knock (oil has a very negative effect on octane) but I wasn't hearing it. The shock waves beating on the rings apparently pounded the piston lands away from the body of the piston.

The Goodparts separator only stops the oil being blown through the PCV system; it can do nothing for oil being sucked past the intake guides. I didn't have one, since my TR3A has no PCV system.
 
tomshobby said:
Randall, didn't the TR3's have a vent off the side of the block and down towards the ground?
Click to expand...
Yup. But since it's directly from the crankcase, it's not affected by all that oil spraying around inside the rocker cover. And since it's not connected to the intake manifold, it's not considered "positive" crankcase ventilation.

Horrible from an environmental point of view, I'll probably rig a proper PCV system for my next TR.

'Normal' oil circulation for the rocker shaft is that the shaft slowly fills with oil, which then dribbles out through the rocker bushings and the hole on top. From there, it runs down the rocker to lube the rest of the valve train. Because of the slow oil movement, it is easy for the passage to the shaft and the shaft itself to fill with sludge over time, which can eventually block oil flow. (I've actually never seen this on my engines, since I stopped using oils that form sludge, but I've seen it on other people's engines.) So sometimes, after setting the valves, I start the engine with the cover off and watch to see that the hole in the #1 rocker (farthest from the oil feed) fills with oil within a minute or so.

But the external oil feed puts full gallery pressure into the rocker shaft, resulting in a huge flow of oil through there. It literally painted the underside of the hood when I started the engine !

BTW, that engine came to me with the feed blocked and I had already installed it when I discovered the problem. Didn't feel like pulling it again just to correct that (since I fully intended to install a properly rebuilt engine within a year or two anyway), hence the band-aid. Never did get around to properly building an engine; that same block is in the car today (with different pistons obviously).
 
Stirkle said:
I seem to recall seeing a listing on Ebay for a TR6 oil pressure relief valve? Where is that located?
Click to expand...
ISTR it screws into the engine block, below the oil canister.
 
[/quote]
Because of the slow oil movement, it is easy for the
passage to the shaft and the shaft itself to fill with
sludge over time, which can eventually block oil flow.
to see that the hole in the #1 rocker (farthest from the
oil feed) fills with oil within a minute or so.
quote]

Randall- That is EXACTLY what I found and why I posed the
aux. oil feed question. Zero oil was dripping from ANY of
the rocker arms. All arms, springs abd push rods remained
dry after engine was warmed up, at 160* temp and 60# oil
pressure.

Upon closer examination, all the holes were plugged with
crud. (Remember DPO Pedro had not performed a single oil
change in the 3 or 4 years he had the car.)

I poked a wire into all the tiny holes and got oil
to drip from every rocker arm except No. 1, like you mentioned.

I drove it for one hour+, engine ran great and smooth but
when I removed the VC, No.1 was still dry with no oil.

That's where I am now. One dry rocker assembly. But the
engine runs great with no valve noise, oddly enough.

Learning curve: This village idiot thought oil should be
literally spraying and blowing all over the rocker assembly.

Any suggestions for my one dry rocker arm?

thanks as always,

PS: raining cats and dogs today or I'd have Almost Amos
clocking some more miles. He is really running smoothly
and I'm having fun driving. All the "thumbs up", friendly
waves and horn honks make it worth the effort.

A funky old, pastel blue, 1970's Dodge Swinger paced me
the other day all smiles and waving. Way cool!!

d
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]I was getting enough oil past the intake guides at hot cruise to cause ignition knock (oil has a very negative effect on octane) but I wasn't hearing it. The shock waves beating on the rings apparently pounded the piston lands away from the body of the piston. [/QUOTE]

Randall,

That's the one thing that worried me about my old head and the worn guides. This year's goal was to get the head swap completed and while in there, look at the pistons/lifters (at least the tops) and then finish the frame restoration. I had a slight bit of pitting on the two center cylinders, but the rest were fine.

I've located another engine and I plan to disassemble it over the winter/spring and build it over the summer. Probably just the major block assembly, then swap my head over next fall.

During the Dyno tests this fall, several cars were shut down for detonation, from either the sensors or by ear. Mine was fine, but as you said, "forced oil induction" can create some problems.
 
You beat me to the post Paul.

I am NOT going to install an aux. oil line
(Thanks Yisrael!!)

A mechanic, I'm not. But I'm good with nuts and bolts
and I know how to adjust the valves. Unless Randall gives
me a better fix, I'll probably just pull off the rocker
assembly and clean out all the crud to get No.1 arm seeping
oil.

This has been a fabulous learning experience for me.
I enjoy finding out how mechanical things function.

thanks,

d.
 
That is probably the best decision that you made today, short of logging into the forum.
 
Yo Paul!!

Sun's out, Almost Amos is running and warmed up,
me and the Mrs. heading out to run a few errands.
( ie, Merlot run for Wendy)


later gator,

d
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Aren't you taking a big chance with no.1 valves not getting any oil?[/QUOTE]

Strickle,

We really need to talk.........
 
Tinster said:
... I'll probably just pull off the rocker
assembly and clean out all the crud to get No.1 arm seeping
oil.....
Click to expand...

Not a difficult task, even for a rookie. Not only will you be able to clean all the passages, you will have an opportunity to check for excessive wear on the components.
 
Stirkle said:
Aren't you taking a big chance with no.1 valves not getting any oil?
Click to expand...
Hmm, forgot to mention that I had driven that TR3 motor over 10,000 miles and many years with the oil feed totally blocked before I discovered the problem (including some 1500 miles home from where I bought it). No idea how long the DPO had driven it like that. Only lube it was getting was when oil was added; the pushrods were rusty!

Yeah, there was a lot of wear, but no dramatic failures. So I wouldn't worry about one Saturday drive with no oil to #1.

Tinster, you've got just the right idea. Tap out the pins & disassemble the shaft for cleaning.

PS, the funny part was that I had bought that TR3 just to get the OD for my TR3A (which had blown up it's original OD). It's engine used less oil than mine, so I swapped the engines at the same time as the OD. No doubt the plugged oil passage was part of the reason !

Then sold the car for twice what I'd paid for it, with no OD.
 
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