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A new project? Opinions?

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terriphill

Darth Vader
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We have found a 1967 MGB that has not been driven since 1978. It is garage kept and at some time, restoration was started. We know this is a long term project and wonder what your opinions are as ar as the feasibility of getting a car that has sat this long going again. It is complete, has all bumpers and interior. Suggestions? Opinions?
 

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If the chassis is solid, then the rest is straight forward. It will be a lot of work but a solid car is a great starting point.
 
He says the frame rails are solid and do not have any rust.
 
Rear wheel arches are shot - floors need replacing....don't bet the sills are solid.....do you see that hole up under the driver side wheelwell down by the end of the sill? That screams "sill rust"! & look at the bodged repair to the inside of the passenger sill..."sill rust"! & nothing's been repaired properly...you're gonna spend way too much time just correcting the DPO repairs before you even get to the problems

Yes, she is a '67, a desirable year, but she will be a complete disassemble with lots & lots of bodywork labor involved....are you ready for, let's say - just a guess, $2,000 to $3,000 to get the body ready for paint (if you don't have welding skills)?

Would you be better off spending a bit more money for a solid car?
 
Yikes, my wife would shoot me if I bought that home. Can you turn the engine over by hand or is it frozen? I have to agree with everything Tony says except the cost estimate is way low if you were here in Calif.
 
Patch it up & use it...then again it looks like a projcet. Where is it located again /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]the cost estimate is way low if you were here in Calif.[/QUOTE]

He's in Arkansas
 
I'd pick it up regardless of the rust. But then again I am biased towards the early cars.
 
My husband was a welder in his first life and I checked this AM with the local LBC mechanic (who I depend on and trust completely) He says they have a Hobart stick welder we can use.
Do we need a plasma torch to cut out the rusted wheel wells? I mean, this guy is offering this to us for $750. It is complete and the motor turns over but has not started since I was a very young girl. The seats are in beautiful condition and he has all the original parts and hardware.

Tony, the guy who has it says the sills look strong underneath. If we get it home and it is more than I can handle....can it be parted out? Do the parts bring anything that would allow us to re-coup our investment if it is beyond our abilities to restore?

I think I would love to try this type of MAJOR project but I feel enourmous apprehension when I look at what's been done.
 
What kinda Trans is in it? You should be able to re-coup your money. If there is an OD in it, then absolutely you can re-cuop.
 
Given time and money anything can be fixed.

I would get someone who has restored one of these things to look at it. They should be able to give you a ball park figure on the restoration costs. You need to know what you are signing up for!! Restoring cars is not for the faint of heart in either time or money.

If you don't know someone who has done this, try to find a MG club in your area.
 
I could sell $750 worth of parts off it (even if it doesn't have OD) but not overnight, maybe a year or omre....& when I was finished, I've got a way to dispose of the hulk.

So, I wouldn't go wrong thinking that way....however, if you're thinking parts car, drop the price to $500 or less - & take cash - & factor in the time value of money (i.e., where can you invest $500 & what's the max return over what period of time that you can get)....
 
Downplay it's condition saying hopefully you can make your money back in parts if it does not pan out. Throw $400 on the hood. Keep an extra c-note in your pocket for bargaining. $500 seems like a worthwhile bet.
 
BTW, you aren't going to stick-weld those repairs. You and your husband are going to need a MIG or TIG to do this right. However, the fact that one of you can weld (and it sounds like you are willing to weld) suggests that if you want to take on a long term project you can make this work. The cost of the welder will disappear in the other restoration costs. I agree with those above who suggested talking to the owner about this being a parts car and work the price down.
 
You should be able to do better. I sold a much more solid '72 last spring for $1900. Rebuld engine, decent interior, good paint, no OD or wire wheels. Keep looking, Bob
 
It all depends on you as the talker and the beliefs of the PO that this is a gold mine of a car and "it's a 67 you know". That's the talk I got and each of my 2 B's, cost less than that.
 
Those sills are rusty, no question. You can see the hole in the picture that Tony pointed out (the hole in the driver side rear wheel well) and the picture of the passenger footwell shows a crude patch on the inner sill. It needs all the sheet metal except the tranny tunnel. But it can still be fixed, if you really want to. The sheet metal alone will be around $1,500. Stick welders won't work for this kind of welding, but a decent mig isn't too expensive. I wouldn't offer more than $500, and even that is generous.
 
Just my opinion but I do all auto body welding and brazing with a gas torch. Its easy to control and relatively inexpensive to set up. You can also use the heat to expand and shrink panel metal when necessary.
 
I read in my Midget rstoration book that touch welding is the preffered methos & easy to control.
 
Thank You to all of you who replied....I think we are going to keep looking. The owner is firm on his asking price and we still have to drive 600 miles to pick it up (I know, I know this should count as cost, but my husband and I use the trips as an excuse to get away for a couple of days and it becomes a "mini-vacation")
Maybe I'll start working on the guy down the street who has a 67 B that hasn't been tagged since 87. Its pitiful! but he doesn't want to part with it (yet).
 
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