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A little ignition help needed

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Thanks Phil and Don!!, I have already re-installed the head bolts and rocker arm assembly and will put the engine back to stock specs as everyone has recommended. Just have to wait another day or two until the rest of the needed timing gear parts arrive.
 
Well, the rest of the needed parts that I had ordered showed up this afternoon. Will start re-assembling tomorrow. Dave, Did you say to pack the recess in the timing chain cover with wheel bearing grease when installing the new seal??

It will be very interesting to see if I can get the little bugger running in the very near future. Don, Dave.... With my luck I may be asking for a little more assistance during the re-assembly process :smile: I'll be sure to let you all know how it goes!
 
Starting to get this stuff back together. Had to sand down the sides of the new crankshaft key in order to obtain a nice snug fit on the shaft and keyways on the timing gear and crank pulley. Replaced the (3) 0.006" shims behind the timing gear on the crank and tightened things down (temporarily) to assure alignment with the cam shaft timing gear. looks ok to me. I have the number one cylinder at TDC and the timing mark on the crank shaft timing gear looks like it is where it should be, pointing to the center of the cam shaft timing gear. However, with the cam shaft timing gear reinstalled (temporarily)at the bolt locations that were used prior to disassembly, the timing mark on the sprocket is pointing at about 7:00 o'clock when viewed from the rear of the car and NOT at timing mark on the crank shaft gear. Number one cylinder valves are closed and number 4 cylinder has the exhaust valve open and intake valve closed. Dose it sound like I have things going back together correctly? And, is there any concern about where the timing mark is pointing on the cam shaft timing gear??
 
Notfamiliar with tr3 cam timing marks,but believe you can easily verify correct cam timing,even with no marks
Crank at TDC,turn cam in running direction until number one intake just starts to open.You really only need to look at one cylinder.
Then attach chain,and rotate crank 360 back to TDC,this is compression stoke,and time dist. to #1.This should let you knowif you are in the ball park.
Tom
 
I must not be understanding you, Tom. Where the intake valves open is nowhere close to TDC on any stroke, on any engine.
 
Went back out there and followed the Haynes manual. Removed the crank and cam timing gears and the crank key. Placed the two gears on a clean table with the marks lined up to each other then placed the new chain on the gears. Again. #1 cylinder is at TDC. Placed the chain and gears on the shafts then turned the cam timing gear to line up the keyway on the crank shaft to the crank timing gear. When I did this, the bolt holes in the cam gear will not align with the bolt holes in the cam shaft. So, the next thing I did was rotate the cam gear to align the holes in the gear with the holes in the cam shaft. this resulted in the keyway in the crank grear being misaligned with the keyway in the shaft by maybe 60 degrees. I think something is out of alignment :frown:
 
Hey Randall,
I guess I was just trying to say the point,or what I should have said better, center point of intake opening and exhaust closing on number one is a good check point,and should be occuring at TDc,then one revoution of crank back to TDc and set dist.
Tom
 
Maybe I'm not understanding, but I think you need to set the cam timing. Sometimes this is by having the crank at TDC, and on a 4 cylinder, having the cam at the "balance" point for cal 4 (where one valve is closing, the other opening, at the same level). But there could be different process for your engine, I would look at that part of the manual.
 
How far off were the holes during that first attempt ?. If it were just a couple degrees, you might line it up by flipping the sprocket over,front to back
 
So Darrell, right now, I have the #1 cyl at TDC. The # 1 cyl valves are in the closed position and the # 4 cyl exhaust valve looks to be wide open.

Do I turn the timing gears to align the keyway in the crank pulley and crank timing gear? When I turn the cam what position should the #1 cyl valves be in? Or do I just keep turning until I get the holes in the cam timing gear to line up with the attach bolt holes in the cam?
 
rcufley said:
So Darrell, right now, I have the #1 cyl at TDC. The # 1 cyl valves are in the closed position and the # 4 cyl exhaust valve looks to be wide open.

Do I turn the timing gears to align the keyway in the crank pulley and crank timing gear? When I turn the cam what position should the #1 cyl valves be in? Or do I just keep turning until I get the holes in the cam timing gear to line up with the attach bolt holes in the cam?
Click to expand...

Since I'm not familiar with the Spitfire engine, I'm not sure. If you can find the procedure in your shop manual for installing a new cam, it should tell you how to set the camshaft, usually when cylinder one is at TDC. The valves on #1 should be closed at TDC (on the compression stroke), so that sounds OK, but there is a range where that is true, so usually there is some other method (sometimes #4 with one opening and one closing and equal), but it could be something else.
 
The problem is, it spun. If you're just replacing parts, remember I told you, it's going to be interesting.
What you need to do is leave the crank right, then pull the distributor cap, put the bolts in the cam, rotate the cam with a bar until the rotor points at #1 plug wire.
THEN, remove the bolts, install the chain and gears, rotate the crank slightly to get the cam bolts in, then rotate the engine two full turns in normal direction of rotation) (one cam turn), and check alignment without turning engine backwards at all (tensioner not installed). And you should be good to go.
Call me if you need help!
Dave
 
Thanks Dave, I'll give it a go tomorrow. If I get stuck, I just might have to give you a call. Thanks again!
Bob
 
Bob- I'll be in Lk Stevens all day
Actually on the shore of...for those who might have any ideas
 
Thanks Don, with some of the frustrations I get while working on this thing I feel like jumping in the lake too :smile: Dave called tonight and provided some excellent advise. So, I will give it a go tomorrow and see what happenss. Thanks for your support!!
Bob
 
Dave... I followed your advise and took the cam sprocket off, put the bolts partially back in the holes, and used a pry bar on the bolts to turn the cam. Took a few trys but got the cam holes to line up with the sprocket hole and the timing marks on the cam and crank sprockets line up perfectly. In addition I did see what you mean about the valve overlap. #4 intake and exhsaust valves appear to be in the approximatly same position and the rotor is also in the correct position. I am getting somewhat excited to see if this thing is going to start. Again..... thanks for all you help and advise!! If you hear about a big explosion in north Lynnwood this afternoon, you will know I did not get something quite right :smile:
 
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