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Wedge '80 TR7 door won't open.

atikovi

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Just recently I havn't been able to open the drivers door. When I move the lock knob up and down I seem to hear it locking and unlocking fine. Both the inside and outside handles work fine. Anyone had this problem before? I assume a link has disconnected and I have to remove the inside door panel to get to it. Can it be removed with the door closed?
 
I have a dealer reprint of contemporary test drives on the TR-7. One article mentioned how the passenger's door just decided not to open. My '80 TR-7 DHC did the same when I took a date to an event; she wasn't impressed, either. Generally, when mine won't open from the outside, it will open when the interior door handle is opened and a shoulder is placed on the door. Then it works fine for a while.

The later TR-7's have a second catch for the door. I think it gets hung up there at times.

Good luck!

Jeff
 
Just having redone the insides of my doors this spring, I don't think you'll be able to get the door panel off with the door closed. The bottom would be OK, but there's a couple of the fasteners hidden by the dash facia when the door is closed that you wouldn't be able to get at. However, you may be able to use a "slim jim" device going in thru the open window and be able to grab/pull the release to get it open. Good luck, and let us know how it turns out!
 
Mine does it from time to time. Basically the catch spring is really a chincy unit...

...so get in the car and push the door outwards, which should bring the spring back, then open it. You can also drive a bumpy road, and usually that's enough to spring it.

My passenger door is extremely sticky, and it happens all the time...the driver's door is a little more forgiving.
 
I have the same problem myself. The door is sticky and eventually gives in with enough effort. Only the passenger side though...

(I know that doesn't help YOU, but I'm just sympathizing!) /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
 
mine binds on the guides above the latching mechanism. especially in the winter. i have found a light coating of white grease keeps it from sticking (after I get it open).
 
Sounds like a common problem. My TR8 had a similar problem, wasn't that the latch wouldn't release, just that it had a lot of "stiction". It actually felt like it was locked, but would break free if you threw your shoulder into it. I solved the problem by readjusting the latch to actually pull the door in tighter to the weatherseal. This provides some tension against the door so when you release the latch it provides that initial pop to start it out.
Don't know if this is your problem, but might be worth checking. BTW, the factory didn't provide enough adjustment space in their holes so I had to ream them out to get the adjustment I needed.
 
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