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*8 Suspension Up-date[HELP!]

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DNK

DNK

Great Pumpkin
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*8 Suspension Update[HELP!]

Got the pieces back from the PC'ers. Came out nice as always. I have put the rear together ,please tell me the black springs (smaller) go in the rear. Found out, last week, I had forgotten the lower washer on the rear shock. Glad I noticed now and not when I heard a loud thunk when it's on the road.

Good news - I ordered my Superlites yesterday.
Bad news- They are out of stock on the Charcoal and the boat just left Australia and wont' be here for 6 weeks and then they have to go thru customs.

So now what do I do. Put the old disk back on the car until they arrive so I can at least move it around?

DSCF2659.jpg
 
Re: *8 Suspension Update

Larry if you Look at the photo can you tell if i put the correct springs in the rear. I figure it's probably the smaller of the 2.
DSCF2546.jpg
 
Re: *8 Suspension Update

Dang, I was also just looking trying to figure out what the trailing arm stop brackets are for and was looking thru the Rimmer Bros. catalogue and I think I pressed my ball joint on up side down! ARGHHHH
 
Re: *8 Suspension Update

The steering or Track arm went back to get the ball joint reversed. A couple of questions on the front struts.

1. When tightening the top nut that holds the spring pan on is it better to compress the spring so there is no tension on the nut.(60* torque)

2. there is no protection between the spring pan and the body when you install the strut. They recommend well seal of something. What should I put there?

3.What tool is best used to hold cup washer still and also holds the top of the strut?

Holding my breath for answers
 
Re: *8 Suspension Update

Perfect timing on the question. I just spent the whole day in the garage banging away on front suspension stuff. I've never really put much thought into putting the things back together. You usually have to compress the springs in order to get the shock to stick out far enough to start the retaining nut. I use an impact gun to tighten the nut, otherwise the shock just keeps turning with the ratchet. I have never put anything between the top mount and the shock tower. Make sure you install the roller bearings while you are in there, and lube them well.

Today I made up two sets of front coil-over assemblies. On one set I just ground away the spring perch, welded on a retaining ring lower on the strut tube, and slid on a five inch threaded sleeve and adjustable perch. Those are going on my buddies car. The other set was a little more difficult. I am going to a shorter insert, so I cut out 1.25 inches from the middle of the tube and welded it back together. I used the piece of tube I removed as a lower perch for the 5 inch coil-over sleeve I slid on after I removed the stock perch. Tomorrow I'll paint them up.
 
Re: *8 Suspension Update

I'll take some today and try to figure out how to post them. I'm home all week with the kids(school vacation week)
 
Re: *8 Suspension Update

Ditto here,cept I fly to DC on Thursday.
 
Re: *8 Suspension Update

Todd- In the Roger Williams book How To Improve ... he recommends anti dive blocks for the front sway bar. What is your thoughts?
 
Re: *8 Suspension Update

DNK said:
Todd- In the Roger Williams book How To Improve ... he recommends anti dive blocks for the front sway bar. What is your thoughts?
Click to expand...

Don - coming on board here a bit late, but when I redid my suspension with the lowered springs, poly bushings, etc., I didn't include the blocks. The suspension redo took care of the dive that mine had.

Mickey
 
Re: *8 Suspension Update

Mickey Richaud said:
DNK said:
Todd- In the Roger Williams book How To Improve ... he recommends anti dive blocks for the front sway bar. What is your thoughts?
Click to expand...

Don - coming on board here a bit late, but when I redid my suspension with the lowered springs, poly bushings, etc., I didn't include the blocks. The suspension redo took care of the dive that mine had.

Mickey
Click to expand...

This is my experience as well Don.
 
Re: *8 Suspension Update

OK Dokey /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thankyousign.gif
 
Re: *8 Suspension Update

In theory, they help to preload the sway bar. Tr7/8s have a bad tendency to nose dive on heavy braking. Stiffer springs and swaybars help. So does lightening up the front end. I would suggest you use them if you got them. If you don't have them, I wouldn't go out and buy them unless the car still nose dives after you redo the front suspension. They are very easy to install. On a side note, you ever wonder why all of the coupes with the Webasto sliding moonroof have broken clips and semi circular dents on the rear deck? It's because the car nose dives so bad. If you are on the highway with the top open and have to slam on the brakes, the nose will dive and air will enter the open roof area. The resulting force balloons the sliding roof, breaks the plastic sliders, and slams the leading edge of the roof panel onto the rear deck. You would swear that you were being rear ended by another car. Grabbed the camera to snap a couple of photos of the struts, and the batteries are dead. I'm charging them now and will try this evening. If you send me a PM with your email address, I can send out more detailed photos.
 
Re: *8 Suspension Update

tr8todd said:
On a side note, you ever wonder why all of the coupes with the Webasto sliding moonroof have broken clips and semi circular dents on the rear deck? It's because the car nose dives so bad. If you are on the highway with the top open and have to slam on the brakes, the nose will dive and air will enter the open roof area. The resulting force balloons the sliding roof, breaks the plastic sliders, and slams the leading edge of the roof panel onto the rear deck. You would swear that you were being rear ended by another car.
Click to expand...

I was considering replacing my sliding glass sunroof with a webasto style... but now I'm not so sure. Thanks for that bit of info Todd. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbsup.gif /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wall.gif
 
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