79 Midget Clutch issues

[George P]

Hi all,

I'm finding it very difficult to select gears, i.e 4th down to third or even engaging any other gear. Clutch pedal flat on the floor.

I use a Gunsons auto bleed kit (uses tyre air) and bled the system at the slave cylinder. I got some air out and thought that was it. Sadly not.
Both the slave and the master cylinders have been changed,
Linkages have been checked and not found elongated.
The engine was removed last month but the clutch pressure plate and bearings were not worn or damaged so I did not replace them.
This problem existed before the engine was removed.
Lots of gear crunching going on and I'm afraid I may do some damage to the train if I don't get this sorted.
I have noticed that the MGOC spares have identified that the master cylinder can be Identified with two concentric rings but I cant find them on mine.
2 pictures attached. One is the removed master cylinder the other is as fitted. Maybe I should refit the original one as it wasn't faulty after all. (New seal kit of course()
Any help would be great.

 

[Bayless]

Hi George. I don't have enough experience with these things yet to be much help. I do understand that bleeding the clutch can be quite difficult thought. We have folks here who I'm sure can be a lot more help than I am.

 

[JPSmit]

George, welcome to the wonderful world of 1500 ownership!

two things.

1. Did you replace the clutch line? I did a few years ago - I did - it took me a summer of trying to bleed the clutch before I realized the ends of the new line were cr*p and not seating properly letting in air - sadly many replacement parts have worse and worse tolerances due to being jobbed out to the lowest bidder. I went back to the original ends and found a new hose and all was much better.

2. The 1500 clutch line curves higher than the master cylinder making it very easy to get a bubble at the top of the circuit. I have actually discovered that if you disconnect the Master cylinder, hold it higher than the hose and slowly pump the cylinder (use a screwdriver in the holes and gloves to save you hand) you can bleed it in seconds.

good luck and questions are always welcome!

 

[sparkydave]

Ditto on what JPSmit said on the clutch line. I replaced the clutch and hydraulics on mine, and yes, bleeding the clutch is a pain. I found if I stomp hard and fast on the clutch a few times, the bubble stuck in the hose will either burp out of the master or go down in the slave where you can bleed it again. I used a Mityvac myself. One thing I learned is if you unbolt the slave cylinder, the pushrod makes a tight seal with the dust boot on the end, and when you put it back, you WILL have to bleed the clutch again after you work the clutch a couple times. That pocket of air inside the dust boot will find its way into the fluid.

My original master cylinder gave up the ghost a while back and sprung a leak. I have the aftermarket one like you have now, but it was no big deal bleeding it.

When I replaced my clutch, I had ordered the aftermarket brand (can't remember the name now). Had a terrible time because apparently the pressure plate was for a different application, it was still very firmly engaged even though the hydraulics were working. When I went with the OEM Borg & Beck clutch it worked fine.

 

[George P]

So you pulled the engine again Jedi, I don't think I can pull the gearbox with pulling the complete unit out!

 

[George P]

Thanks JP, I think I'll give that a go. I cannot find a remote bleed kit to fit the 1500MG anywhere!!! If I can source the end fittings I can probably get one made up.
Thanks for the advice.

 

[JPSmit]

Thanks JP, I think I'll give that a go. I cannot find a remote bleed kit to fit the 1500MG anywhere!!! If I can source the end fittings I can probably get one made up.
Thanks for the advice.

can I suggest starting with trying to get the Master Cylinder higher than the hose before you take anything apart - as I am typing this I recall that some people jack up the corner of the car higher than the hose - but even to disconnect the MC (which isn't hard) and leave it overnight higher than the hose - the air should <should> leave on its own.

 

[George P]

Thanks JP, couple of pics attached. I removed the master cylinder and raised it well above the pipeline and then used the ezibleed. Lots of bubbles came out. I also checked the slave, the bleed nipple is higher than the feed not a great deal higher but better so I left it as it is. Now for a test run.

 

[JPSmit]

sounds promising - let us know!

 

[George P]

Looks like that did the trick, 4 mile run and no problem
Thanks everyone for the help.