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79 midget 1500 front suspension

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jim79

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I remember reading a post where someone mentioned that it is possible to install a front suspension component wrong and get a camber (tilt) to the wheel? I havent rebuilt my suspension yet but I have at least 10 degrees of camber.I'm to figure out if maybe a part was put together wrong by previous owner(s).
Any advice or comments are appreciated.

Jim
1979 midget
 
Turn the upper trunnions 180 degrees. The "knuckle" points out. (I'm assuming you mean you have 10 degrees of <u>positive</u> camber. Top of tire out.)
Jeff
 
Actually the top of my tire is in (towards the engine)and the bottom of my tire out. I checked and it appears that the knuckle is on the outside of the "kingpin/swivel pin". Nothing appears to be visibly wornout and the car drives fine.
 
Have the front springs been lowered? Either shorter than stock, or with a lowering kit?


mark
 
Did you just replace your kingpins? I don't know if it is even possible but are the kingpins in backward?
Bill
 
Have the lower A-arm and trunnion bushings been replaced recently? When they collapse, they can throw off the geometry, causing the camber to be way, way out. I have a set of tires that are down to the cords on the inner edge, and just about new on the outside... all due to worn bushings.

-Duncan
'78 Midget 1500 "Milo"
 
I haven't changed the kingpins and judging by the stuck upper fulcrum pin, it hasnt been changed in a while.
No I haven't changed any bushing in the front end yet I have jiggled all the components with the tire off and cant find any significant movement but I am sure the bushing have wear because the rear suspension bushing were shot when I changed them this winter.
Is there any other way to check the bushings without disassembling? It's driving time and I know when I open that can of worms it's going to be apart for a while.
 
Ok , here is what I found. I pulled the coil spring and there was still no movement. Against my sixth sense I removed the upper fulcrum pin from the upper trunnion link and the bushing's rubber was worn on one side and the metal sleeve was also worn 1/2 way through-this damage was on both halfs of the bushing set.
Now I'm looking at moss and it is saying the bushings have to be reamed to fit the pin? If so is the poly set the same? Or is this my misunderstanding or another way?
Thanks for all the input so far,
Jim
 
The king pin brass bushings must be reamed. The trunion bushings just pop right in.

I have not purchased poly bushings from VB, but I do have a set from the bhive ( https://bhive.tierranet.com/ ) that I really like. The are stiffer than rubber, but still soft enough to give a pleasant ride.

I bought a set of poly bushes from Moss for the inner fulcrum pins that I will never use. Hard as a rock.

They are up for grabs, by the way, if anyone wants them. I have an unused set for one side.
 
What are you talking about? They came fromt the factory that way! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
Yes- they must have come from the factory like that, mine looked like that before I replaced them too! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
Bill
 
Me as well. Factory did shoddy work 48 years ago.
 
Geez I thought they were worn! Ok I'll put them back in.
Seriously new ones from vb are on the way, hopefully this will solve my "tire tilting" issues.
Thanks for all the info.
Jim
 
jim79 said:
Geez I thought they were worn! Ok I'll put them back in.
Seriously new ones from vb are on the way, hopefully this will solve my "tire tilting" issues.
Thanks for all the info.
Jim
Click to expand...

Jim, have you (or has anyone) documented this repair? I'm about to have to do a complete front suspension strip & rebuild to fix the same problem, and would love any help. I already have the kingpin set and a full polybush front end set, as well as wheel bearings on the way.

Here's the one link I did find on the subject. Good stuff, although it doesn't get into much detail as to kingpins & steering geometry.

MG Midget suspension rebuild

Best,
Duncan, Ottawa
78 Midget 1500
 
I don't know of anything documented but I can tell you that the most important step is to get that coil spring out of there. I used 2 5" bolts to slowly lower the spring seat which decompresses the coil spring.I'd also advise you to soak all the bolts you'll be removing with pb blaster or some other penetrating oil everyday for a few days before you start removing anything. The upper pin I removed was a bear and the impression I get is the lower one is monster to get out.
I'm sure that in this forum you'll get the advice you need.
Good luck.
 
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