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I saved the $70 by clipping the two wires together. So what if the dash light are on all the time the headlights are on, they are not too bright even at full power. (Besides, I couldn't get my hand up behind the dash to change the rheostat even if I wanted to.) Bob
[ QUOTE ]
need I spend 70 dollars or is there a replacement from Radio Shack that would work?
[/ QUOTE ]
Never had to do this, but I have considered doing this myself too as mine isn't working all that great.
Theoretically it should be able to be done using an over the counter rheostat from any electronics store. The real trick would seem to be to retain the original look. I would pull the old unit or at least take off the control knob and try to find a compatible replacement with the same size shaft. Worst case you might look at a shaft that is slightly larger in diameter that will allow you to drill out the control knob.
Something else to keep in mind - is look at is the resistance value of the old rheostat and try to find a similar valued replacement. Too low a resistance value and the dash lights will never really dim. Too high and you won’t have any adjustment until the knob reaches the very end of travel come full on when you reach zero resistance. If you can try & measure the old rheostat’s resistance value. Even if it’s damaged you should be able to tell by actually measuring across the windings that the sweep rides over. If you don’t have a multi-meter to measure resistance you might be able to ask the clerk at the electronics store to measure it for you.
Good Luck!
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
For what it is worth, I pulled it out and used pliers to rotate the shaft which was stuck. It seems to have fixed the problem for now, so maybe I won't have to spend the 70 bucks. Gotta love pliers! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
When you say you pulled it out was this from the front of the dash? Can the 2 wires that need to be clipped together be accessed by pulling the switch from the front of the dash? I have a 73 MGB.
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