• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!

    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
  • When posting a classified ad, you MUST select a prefix from the drop-down next to the subject line. If you don't you will get an error and your ad will not be posted!
Tips
Tips

TR6 '76 TR 6 stromberg rebuild settings..

wangdango

Jedi Hopeful
Country flag
Offline
I am in the proces of rebuilding these Strombergs, what should the needle/idle/trimming screw be set at? These carbs have no smog/emission/vac lines on them. Will the stock needles work with this set up? Will they be too rich, too lean????
 
With an engine that has broken in, you can close the idle trim port fully, with Clockwise turns of the screw.
As far as where to start with the needle, remember that you only have 3 threads on the adjuster. So from fully Clockwise (rich) to max lean that's all you have to work with . More than 3 CCW and the needle carrier will loose contact with the adjuster and although the adjuster will continue to turn, the needle will not change altitude.
I start 1 1/2 CCW turns from full CW.
Do you have a Throttle Bypass Valve on those carbs ? If you do and they are functional and the diaphram around the brass valve is still flexible, then a good starting point is 8 CCW from fully CW.
Unlike the SU carbs you won't find a wide selection of metering needles, only 2 and I think they have pretty much the same dimensions. Regardless, I don't think removing the emission stuff has an effect on the fuel mixture requirements, at least not enough that it can't be adjusted with the B1AF needles.
 
Back
Top