76 midget 1500 oil pressure lines?

[Tipsy]

Hello everyone. I have a question about the oil pressure line/setup that is on my 1976 1500. I can't find it showing up in my Haynes manual, my VB catalog or Moss catalog. The guys at Moss had no idea what I was talking about either. So I'm wondering if my setup is unique?
There is a fitting in the side of the engine block, underneath the distributor. It's threaded into the block, and has a 90 degree nipple connected to it. That nipple is clamped into a hose that is 1/8" I.D. hose. Then that hose loops under the steering shaft and connects to a tee fitting on the wheel well. There it splits and from that tee it has an electrical sending unit (not sure what for because there is no idiot light for oil pressure) and feeds the small pipeline that feeds oil to the back of my oil pressure gauge on the dash.
So, here's my problem: recently that hose starting leaking. I tried getting a new one from numerous hydraulic hose makers in my area but no one had hose or clamps that small. So I double hose clamped it at each end after removing the old crimp clamps that were leaking and put it back on. When I did that, one of the compression nuts split! So then, because they were metric fittings that I could not find anywhere I replaced the fitting in the block which was threaded american into the block but metric on the outlet, with a fitting that was american both ends. Then I replaced the metric compression nut that split with an american compression nut. Now it's all "rigged" together and seems to be holding until yesterday when my oil pressure dropped too low and I realized it was leaking again.
What I want is a correct replacement hose but Moss and VB don't show anything. Does anyone have any suggestions? If it wasn't for the "tee" fitting that was metric I could probably figure some way to convert it.
Any ideas please?
Jeff

 

[JPSmit]

First off it is correct and, you are right it is not avalable. Mine was not leaking but it had a cut in it so I swapped it. I was able to find a piece of hose at a motorcycle shop.

 

[Tipsy]

Thanks for the reply JP! I'm surprised it's correct. Usually Moss catalog shows it as N/A but at least shows it. Haynes should show it too but does not. Everything I've found indicates the sending unit goes into the block instead of the line.
But, does anyone know where I can get the fittings? They are metric.

 

[JPSmit]

Thanks for the reply JP! I'm surprised it's correct. Usually Moss catalog shows it as N/A but at least shows it. Haynes should show it too but does not. Everything I've found indicates the sending unit goes into the block instead of the line.
But, does anyone know where I can get the fittings? They are metric.

Are you sure they are metric? or one of the obscure British sizes? IIRC the end that screws into the engine is a standard size - I am pretty sure I used the hole to mount the engine sideways on the engine stand. It might be easier to replace it as a unit than just 1/2 the fitting. (BTW I pulled my hair for weeks before I figured out it was unobtanium)

 

[aeronca65t]

I believe that the threaded hole into the block is 1/8-NPT (not metric).

Basically, any common oil pressure sending unit (the kind used to trigger an idiot light) will thread in.

There are a variety of places to get gauge adapters for these.

Speedway Motors or Summit Racing would be two places.

 

[dklawson]

If you do not have an idiot light on the dash... you can simplify the plumbing quite a bit by leaving the switch and its T fitting out.

As Nial said, a 1/8 NPT fitting will screw into the block. The back of Smiths oil pressure gauges are a special 1/8 BSPP (G) thread that uses a fiber washer between the oil line and the back of the gauge stem.

You don't have to go original unless you want to. Go to any auto parts store and buy an oil gauge installation kit. They will have both nylon tube and copper tube versions. You can remove the existing fitting from the block and screw the male NPT to compression fitting directly in the block. Run the copper tube to the back of your gauge but make a couple of loops in the tubing prior to passing it through the firewall. The loops will absorb engine vibration and help prolong the life of the tubing. At the back of the gauge, put several wraps of Teflon tape on the gauge stem, then put the female pipe to compression fitting on the gauge. Connect the tubing to the fitting on the back of the gauge and you are done. It is not original but it will work and cost you less than $15.

If you want something sportier, visit an online store like Summitracing.com and look for braided oil line kits from Longacre. You will need to figure out the length you need and buy accordingly. The Longacre kits come with a small braided hose and a couple of AN fittings that will screw in the block and to the back of the guage just like the kits I mentioned in the last paragraph. The Longacre hose kit will cost you somewhere around $50 depending on the length you need.

 

[Tipsy]

Now we're gettin' somewhere! Thanks!
If there's no idiot light then I can skip that and the tee. And yes, the thread in the block is 1/8 NPT.
A few years ago I had some trouble with the fitting on the back of the gauge leaking and had to make a new gasket. But that's been fine since then.
If I understand you correctly, I can buy an oil gauge installation kit and it will fit to the back of the gauge and to a fitting for the engine as well that is most likely included in the kit.
I will look into that at my NAPA or O'Reilly's.
Thanks everybody!

 

[Tipsy]

Hey Doug,
Will these kits have the "special 1/8 BSPP (G) thread" fitting or will I be needing some sort of adapter to "union" onto the tubing at the back of the gauge?
Thanks!
Jeff

 

[Tipsy]

Doug, the reason I asked is because none of my local parts places have these kits and I wanted to be sure it would all be there before I order it online. Although NAPA is real good about ordering and returning if I can't use it.
Thanks again!

 

[bthompson]

It's been awhile since I've had to think about my oil pressure gauge (knock wood.) I may be misremembering...but didn't Smiths make a combo gauge that is all-electric at some point that can be retrofitted? Electric senders that screw right in for pressure and temp, and no worries with unions, fittings, tubes, or capillaries? It wouldn't be strictly original, but it would look correct and be less hassle.

 

[Tipsy]

Maybe, but I don't have that kind of money. thanks for the input!

 

[dklawson]

I have never seen the Smiths combo (safety) gauge with electric gauge movements, only mechanical. It would be interesting if they did make an all electric version.

Tipsy, the gauge kits at the parts store will be NPT not BSPP. But, that is not a problem. The oil line kits will come with a 1/8" male NPT to 1/8" tube compression fitting (for the block), a length of 1/8" tubing, and a female 1/8" NPT to 1/8" tube compression fitting (for the gauge). All you need to do is put a wrap or two of Teflon thread tape (from the hardware store) on the male oil pressure stem of the Smiths gauge and attach the female compression fitting. The Teflon tape will give you the seal you need without the fiber washer used originally with the Smiths gauge.

I have done this on several cars and the Teflon tape produces a perfectly acceptable seal. The parts store oil line kits are substantially less expensive than OEM type plumbing or the braided oil line kits.

 

[Tipsy]

Found everything I need at Advance Auto Parts! 1/8 NPT to 1/8 compression adapter for engine block. 1/8 compression union fitting. $6 oil pressure gauge installation kit with tubing and fittings including another adapter for the block. Cut off the tubing in the engine compartment so I didn't have to wrestle with under the dash at the gauge. Connected the new tubing with the union. ran the tubing to the block and connected it with the new adapter. Test run and no leaks!
Thanks to all for your help! I never would have know there was a kit like this because all my parts people were not seeing the big picture. They just wanted to help me replace the hose I was having trouble with. It was all of you who helped me in my thinking that there must be another way.
Thanks again!
Jeff

 

[JPSmit]

congrats! could you post pics?

 

[Tipsy]

I've never posted pics before. Is there something on the site that explains how to do it? Whats best way to save photos etc.
Thanks!
Jeff

 

[dklawson]

I never seem to know what I am doing when I (try to) post pictures. Sometimes they come in as a link, other times they show up as pictures.

However, look at the bottom of the window you are typing in and select the "switch to full screen reply". There will be some icons above the text window and I believe one of them is supposed to let you include a picture.

Keep in mind that if you bought the plastic oil line kit you should replace the tubing every few years, keep it away from heat, and don't let it rub on places that vibrate a lot. Where it has to rest on a surfce, you can put a piece of rubber tubing over the plastic tube to protect it. Copper line kits are longer lasting but with them you really must form those looped coils between the engine and firewall to absorb some of the vibration. Regardless, I'm glad you got this sorted out.