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75 t6 pre start up

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floyd

floyd

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I think I need a little help. I’ve had this 75 tr6 for about 1 month. It has sat for about 4 years before I got it. It didn’t have any spark so I did use the starter to turn the engine over briefly to check for spark. Made adjustments to the points and that solved that problem.
Before I try to start it, I took out the plugs about a week ago and put about a cap full of Marvels mystery oil in each cylinder. Went out today and turn the engine over by hand via wrench on the alternator nut. At first I could only get the engine to turn about 10 degrees then the belt would start slipping and noticed the engine had stopped turning. I could reverse direction and almost got a full revolution on the fan blade when it came to a stop again. Now I can only get about a 6 degree swing on the fan blade before it locks up in both directions. I do hear a clunk in the engine block when it stops in both directions.
Any help would be highly appreciated
 
Hi Floyd,
Did you remove the spark plugs before trying to manually turn the engine?
You should not be able to turn it over by turning the alternator. There is not enough friction between the belt and the pulleys to overcome the compression or internal friction. Try and get a wrench on the crank to do this.
 
Yes, it takes quite a bit of force to turn over an engine with the plugs in -- I crank-start the TR3 often enough to attest to that.

With plugs out you may be able to turn it by the fan blades (gloves on) or just put it in 4th and nudge it forward watching the engine movement.

Clunks aren't good... can you tell where it is coming from?
 
Hmmm...I think I'd try to shine a strong light in the spark plug holes and try to determine if all pistons are going up and down at all. I also think I'd be tempted to drop the oil pan. Normally, I can't imagine why one wouldn't be able to turn the engine over with the belt or crank-mounted fan, even with plugs in. I've been doing it for years on my cars.

But with that clunk, I'd really want to know what's causing it before trying to fire up the engine; it could mean many $$$ difference in repair costs...or possibly damaging something beyond repair. Let's hope it's nothing serious, though.
 
Make sure it has oil and GOOD gas in the tank and at the carb. Take the plugs back out check the valve lash and spin the motor 20 or 30 seconds with the STARTER(it would be a good sign if you see some oil pressure during the spin). I think you said you adjusted the points so put the plugs back in and see if it will fire. If it runs and you don’t get any oil pressure turn it motor off and seek qualified advise. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif
 
yes the plugs are still out. Clunking is coming from inside the block. I did loosen the alternator to get slack in the belt just incase one of the others....water or the air pump maybe was causing it. I did drop alittle more Marvels in the cylinders and around the valve guides and pushrods just incase one was sticking.
 
Well, all seems well right now. I went back out and tried to turn it again by the fan blade. It really didn’t seem like it bottoming out on anything just binding up. The clunking sound I do believe was just the slack in the timing chain. Then I got looking at the starter to see if I could determine if it was still engaged. Well I don’t know if I just got brave or stupid but I just briefly bumped it with the key to see maybe if the starter was hanging it up if that would change anything. Well it did. Now I’m able to freely turn it over by hand. There was a spot where there was a little resistance, maybe a stiff spot in the timing chain getting over one of the sprockets. I did look at the valve springs and look like all the valve stems were visually there. Does any of this sound possible?
 
Hi Floyd..... I jumped over from 6-pack where I posted on your start up. Most likely one of your cylinders has some surface rust in it. As the motor sits for a long period of time the valves are held open on a couple of cylinders. This allows what ever atmosphere the car is sitting in into the cylinders. This isn't fatal for the motor, but may lower compression on the effected cylinders. I had a boat once that this had happened to and it ran, and was still running after owning it for several years. It will be what it will be............ spin it with the starter with the oil in the cylinders until the lower end is primed from the sump, put the plugs back in and crank it up! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif If it knocks, or smokes badly (after the oil you put in the cylinders burns off) it's time to rebuild any way. If not check compression and go from there.
 
Got my oil changed, left the plugs out. Cranked the engine over for about 10 sec. and watched the pressure gage. No movement on the gage. Am I not cranking long enough to build pressure. Hate to push my luck. I read on one the post where if you take out the oil relief valve and squirt oil in it will prime the pump. Is there a chance of oil coming out if I take out the valve? Where would I find the oil pressure line going to the dash to test that to make sure the lines not plugged. If I undo the line am I going to get oil coming out there also? Just trying to get all the answers before I tackle this so I know what I can and cant do.Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
NO, 10 seconds is not enough. You did not state what you did with the filter when you changed the oil. Assuming you changed the filter and if you have the OEM side canister filter, you cant really prim the filter because the oil prim will run out before you get the canister secured. If you have an adaptor that allows a screw on filter, fill the filter before you install it.

10 seconds of spin is not long enough. Try 20 to 30 seconds (time it with you watch), you should see something by then.

You should not have to pull the spring/pressure regulator to get the oil flowing.

If you don't get any pressure with a 30 second spin, and you eliminate a gauge failure, you can pull the distributor and do the drill and dowel thing.
 
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