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TR6 74 TR6 in the offing?

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mrv8q

mrv8q

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Hello, TR6 owners, I've been chasing a '74 TR6 for awhile, and am finally going to see it tomorrow. It's been stored since 1991, but supposedly runs... As a TR3 owner, I know the general things to look for, but not specifically for the '6.

I've read here about the clunk from the rear end...what can I look at from underneath the car? Anything else specifically to look for? Many thanks, I'll post tomorrow after I finally see it...
 
Good Luck and remember to look under the battery tray and Brake Master Cylinder. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
Lift the carpet and check the floorboards (both sides).
Run you hands underneath the rocker panels.
Look very closely at the body at all seams and both A and B pillars for rust.

If you can get under the car, look carefully at the frame, especially where the swing arm attaches.

Look in the boot (trunk).

Look for body ripples or Bondo.

If original paint, you are safe to look at body. Be careful if a respray, hiding flaws.

Do the door gaps match fairly well, 1/4" to 1/2" is acceptable, better 1/4".

Does it ride level, do the rear tires squat?

Rust is your enemy, look very, very carefully.

I always like to look at an original car that has never been resprayed. Lot easier to spot flaws, lot harder to hide them.


Others will add more.
 
Bring a flat or a refridgerator magnet to check for hidden bondo.

Beware of different colors under the hood or in trunk. It may or may not be hiding something. However, if different, start looking closer.

Read Gary's link above,

Read Gary's link above. Again.

Make a checklist so that your enthusiasm doesn't blind you.

Follow checklist and don't get distracted. A good seller with a good car has nothing to hide, so take your time.

Bring an impartial firend, preferably with car sense.

Can you get anyone from a local club British Car Club to go with you?
 
Thanks, fellas, for the advice and link. I'm supposed to see it tomorrow, A.M., and will let you know.
 
The GOOD thing would be to find a nice, clean original California car...THAT would be a nice Christmas present!
 
Kevin:

1. Check out the storage area where the TR has been kept.
Look for oil stains. Oil seals are cheap to purchase,
the labor to install them can be $$$.

2. Push down very strongly on either rear corner of the
trunk. The car should bounce right back at you to original
position with little to no up and down motion. If you hear
any crunching noises or the rear end bounces-- You have
expensive rear suspension work to perform. If you can drive
the car and it bottoms out over small bumps-you have
expensive rear suspension work to perform.

3. Stored since 1991? Dollars to donuts you will have to
replace the trailing arm bushings and differential mounts.
The odds are against you that the car has an intact right front differential mount bolt stud box. You better figure
replacing and repairing all these items.

4. If the car drives- insist upon putting it on a lift.
With the hand brake off and wheels chocked, car in neutral
engine off, grab the drive shaft up near where it joins
the back end of the transmission. Rotate the shaft by hand
in both directions. If you feel small "thunks" you are
probably looking at replacing all the U-joints (at a
minimum)

4a. While under the car look for rust beneath both seats
area and foot wells. Bring a small wrench and "tap" the
steel under the car everywhere. Listen for dull thuds-rust.
Rub you fingers along the steel frame members-feel for rust.
You'll get plenty more dirty fixing up your car.

5. Measure the height to the dead center of each wheel hub.
side to side they should not vary more and 1/4"-- over 1/2
inch difference you probably have a twisted frame or worn
out coil springs.

6. Jack up a rear wheel and remove it. Are the emergency
brakes hooked up? Is rear lever shock tightly attached?
If the two shock mounting bolts are loose or you can "rattle" the shock-that indicates the car probably has
been poorly.

Look for all rubber bushings and touch them. If they are
cracked and dried out you will have to replace them.
Replacing trailing arm busings is a real pain in the butt.

7. Pull out the oil dip stick and check it out for water contamination. Got water in the oil? You got problems as well.

8. Push your index finger in the exhaust pipe. Some black soot is ok. Very greasy, heavy black soot might indicate
an $$ carb overhaul.

9. Verify everything electrical functions. Do NOT assume
a non-functioning light is simply burned out. Do the dash gauges works? If not- they are expensive to replace,

10. Stored since 1991? The car has unsafe, dry rotted tires, not matter how nice they might look to you. You must replace all the tires from the get-go.

just a few things that came to my mind.

Hope these help and you get a decent TR

Dale
 
Now this is definitely the "voice of experience" speaking to us. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif
 
Whatever you do, do not buy a car from a certain salesman in Puerto Rico. And don't invest in anything from Nigeria.
 
But Bill- You really must consider buying
the 'almost 100% restored" 1967 Sunbeam Tiger
that Pedro is now sellng.

Considering , all it needs is a new ingnition
key and a couple of fuses should bring all the
lights and gauges back on line. And remember-
ALL British cars leak oil,they are designed that way.

I think it's a steal at $18,00K !!
Fantastic clear coat finish.

d
 
Well, here's the update: the chase is still on; I didn't see the car. At this point, I don't know what the story is on widow selling the car.... There is more of a backstory to this, which I won't get into until the situation is resolved, either way. So, our story will resume, may resume Tuesday afternoon.
Until then thanks for the input so far, and a "happy occasion" to all!
(Especially Basil, without whom this wouldn't be possible, and who's latest cryptic note has me jittery!)
 
I don't know the story, but I chased a TR3 for over 6 weeks from a widow. She had all kinds of sentimental issues with it.(very understandable). Anyways, I final did land the car and have been in the process of restoring it over the last 2 years.(I have several other projects going at the same time). Anyways, hang in there and if it's meant to be, you will get it. Good luck and let us know.
 
Hello, all, finally did get that TR6, took a bit of chasing, but it's mine, in all it's faded brown glory. I'd upload a pic, but it's not seeming obvious now. I do have a couple (hundred) questions, but here are the ones that come to mind first:

1) The car is wearing new 205 70 15 Yokohama radials, as well as new "Dino" aftermarket wheels. (There was a 185 15 Michelin red line as a spare). Right now, when I crank the wheel hard L or R, there's significant rubbing somewhere. Can I use these tires on the standard TR6 steel wheels, w/o rubbing? What's the Triumph wheel spec? (4x100, same as early Nissan)?

2) I'm having a nasty gas leak from the rebuilt carbs, specifically, the rear one towards the firewall, w/ the engine running. I'd post a pic... Anything simple I can look at, before I send them out to Paltech for a proper rebuild?

3) Right now, the Neg battery cable ends at the top of the tranny... where is the proper place to attach to the engine/frame?

4) This poor car has a lot of sorting out coming, but there's no rust, and doesn't seem to leak; yes, I checked the fluids. I'll be asking for a lot of advice and experience in the next few months; thanks, Basil. for the forum!
IMG_0486.jpg
 
She looks beautiful Kevin, looks like a good deal from here! I would make sure the float is adjusted right in the leaky carb, make sure it shuts off when the bowl is full. Along with the usual verify the gasket is good. As far as the tires and the ground cable, I can't help you as I don't have a TR6(yet). My spit's and GT6 grounding attach to one of the tranny to engine studs at the top.
Best of luck with it and happy motoring!
Dennis
 
Is that the one that ran on ebay a few times? If so they did a poor listing and came at a decent price.
 
mrv8q said:
1) The car is wearing new 205 70 15 Yokohama radials, as well as new "Dino" aftermarket wheels. (There was a 185 15 Michelin red line as a spare). Right now, when I crank the wheel hard L or R, there's significant rubbing somewhere. Can I use these tires on the standard TR6 steel wheels, w/o rubbing? What's the Triumph wheel spec? (4x100, same as early Nissan)?

3) Right now, the Neg battery cable ends at the top of the tranny... where is the proper place to attach to the engine/frame?
Click to expand...

The 205/70R15's will fit standard TR6 steel wheels without any trouble. The offset of those 'Dino' wheels might not be correct which could be causing your rubbing issue. The bolt pattern on the TR6 is 4X4-1/2. Not a very common one. Someone might have fitted adapters to make those wheels fit. You won't know until you pull them and find out.

The negative battery cable originally has two grounding locations. One is on the firewall, just above the transmission tunnel area. The second is on the rear engine plate where the transmission bolts to the engine.
 
Hey Alan,

Maybe you'll get lucky and your beast from Hades
will also just kinda blow up and disappear!!

No word on the Crypt Car yet but one thing is
for certain-

No one is out joy riding in him!!

d
 
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