• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

TR6 '74 TR6 Headlight help

Share this page

T

tdskip

Yoda
Country flag
Offline
Hi guys - more sorting underway. I got her running lights/turn signals powered up after fixing a mix of bad gronuds and cut power lines.

Still no flashers, but I'll save that for later.

My latest challenge is that the passnger side headlight is out. The side marker and light under the bumper are working, but not the headlight. I've pulled apart and reconnected the bullet connectors but no dice.

I did notice an open green/white connector that does get power when the headlights are turned on but it looks like a stray wire (yeah, right...)

Any ideas?
 
Well that last post wasn't overly detailed now was it.

So here is what the test light is telling me.

The green/white 'spare' wire lights up the test light when the beams are on normal and goes out when the high beams are flipped on.

The blue/red does not light up the test light on either high or low beams.
 
So I now have low beams working - turns out that assuming that any of the existing wiring was properly connected is a bad idea.

Turns out that at some point the PO improperly connected the wiring. Backing all of that out prior wiring and then reconnecting per Dan Master's diagrams did the trick. Well, almost.

I still don't have high beams, but I think that might be as simple as needing to better connect the wire to the bullet connector.
 
Had me going there....green with white usually is the RH flasher circuit! I'm thinking any remaining lack of high beams is due either to dirty connections or bad connections to the high/low beam switch (or maybe bad headlamps themselves, but I don't think I've ever had a high-beam filament blow out on me).
 
Any time you disconnect a wire, clean it and coat it with dialectric grease or a similar preservant.
If you have a toggle switch for your hazards, very carefully disassemble in a room where flying parts can easily be found. The plastic could be brittle with age. Clean the copper contact with a pencil eraser and reassemble. Also be careful while cleaning the quick slide tabs on the back as they like to break off at the base of the switch. Should this happen, a wire can be soldered in place.
 
Thanks Doug - I know on the TR8 the hazard switch is key to turn signals working but on the TR4 isn't that a separate circuit? I need to take it apart and clean it anyway, but I want to make sure I'm looking in the right place.

Andy - the dirt and heat made the Blue / White wire look green / white. It wasn't until I peaked back into the harness that I realized that it was.

Looking at the high beam wire Blue / Red it looks like the very end got very hot at some point. if I don't get power at the bullet connector how far back into the harness should I go to get power (assuming that the wire got fried at some point)?
 
The "simple" answer is strip it back until you come to th' "fried" bit. But check that hi/low switch for output first. If one side functions normally, the problem will be with a "gang" bullet connector up front. The blue/white is high beams, BTW. Blue/red is lows.
 
tdskip said:
Andy - the dirt and heat made the Blue / White wire look green / white. It wasn't until I peaked back into the harness that I realized that it was.
Click to expand...
Fair enough! However....

tdskip said:
Looking at the high beam wire Blue / Red it looks like the very end got very hot at some point. if I don't get power at the bullet connector how far back into the harness should I go to get power (assuming that the wire got fried at some point)?
Click to expand...
Uh, blue w/red should be the LOW beam, not the high beam. Either way, I'd work my way forward from the actual high/low beam switch, since it appears you do have at least SOME headlight power coming from the main lighting switch.
 
Yeah guys - my bad. I was a bit punchy when I wrote that last night. I switched the color coding in my post, it is correct in the car. Sorry.

So after more testing of the low and high beams both headlights are working now on both beams.

As always, thanks for the coaching guys.

Next up - getting the turn signals working!
 
Back
Top