TR6 '73 TR6 Carbs bowl vent

[TR6oldtimer]

Here are my carbs, which are in nasty condition.

The question is, how would one go about freeing up the float bowl vent valve seen circled here?

Or, how would one go about removing the float bowl vent valve assembly seen circled here?

I have not found a source for replacement parts, so the process cannot be destructive.

Given all this valve does is vent the float bowl to the carbon canister when the engine is off or at idle, if repairs cannot be affected, then I will simple jam it it the open to atmosphere position.

Lastly, the great carb cleaners of the 60's and 70's are long gone, what products are around that will clean the oxidation other then oven cleaners?

 

[Crisis]

My valve was not completely stuck. What would happen is when I took my foot off the gas the valve did not shut completely. This allowed air to be drawn into the carb (because the throttle would not return to the completely closed position) and thus not idle properly; ie high idle. I sprayed the heck out of it with carb cleaner and played with it a lot. Eventually the piston freed itself and allowed the spring to push it back. I probably polished the piston with a brass wire wheel in the dremel as well. Give it a try?

As for the bodies, I put them to the wire wheel and buffer, and then polished them. Thinking back, it must have been a soft metal (probably brass) wheel so as not to scratch too much. Now I use a metal polish on them once in a while.

 

[ekamm]

I like Berrymans for cleaner. Not sure how well it'll work on the corrosion try using a teflon type scouting pad.

 

[poolboy]

I had a couple to deal with that were stuck. You can flood the vent opening in the carb's air box mounting flange and the idle speed/ARV nipple with something like PB Blaster or Kroil to loosen up the corrosion. From time to time push on the plunger to see if it's loosening up.
There is a section in the Buckeye site where Nelson completely removes the valve and I know of a couple of guys who have resorted to his method.
BTW, maybe it's just me, but that particular valve seems to have more problem in the 73 carbs than any other I've heard of.
I know that the lever arrangement that operates the valve was unique to 73 carbs. After that the adjustment mechanism was changed, but as far as I know the internals of the actual valve were the same.
Maybe the removal process is not in the Buckeye site, but it involved cutting threads in the brass liner and using a bolt and sleeve to pull the liner free from the carb. Then the guts are "free" to come out.

 

[SkinnedKnuckles]

Whew - Those stored in a salt water bath? Mine cleaned up well with a buffer wheel and white rouge polishing compound. It will get into most nooks and crannies.

For valve I'd try the WD-40 soak and stroke route. They will probably free up eventually.

 

[TR6oldtimer]

Whew - Those stored in a salt water bath? Mine cleaned up well with a buffer wheel and white rouge polishing compound. It will get into most nooks and crannies.

For valve I'd try the WD-40 soak and stroke route. They will probably free up eventually.

Almost, stored out side, not running, in the fog for ten years, just two blocks off the Monterey Bay. Sea air and aluminum makes white stuff.

Thanks all for the tips...

 

[TR3driver]

Although I have not had occasion to try it for the bowl vent; what I would do is find a tap that will just cut into the inside of the brass sleeve, plus a short spacer large enough for the sleeve to slide inside and a nut to fit the tap. Start the tap into the sleeve (cutting threads on the inside, where they won't interfere with anything), then load the spacer and nut onto the tap. Turn the nut down against the spacer, to pull the tap out hopefully with the sleeve attached.

I've used this technique for the blind plugs used on the shift detents, and it works slick.

 

[TR6oldtimer]

Although I have not had occasion to try it for the bowl vent; what I would do is find a tap that will just cut into the inside of the brass sleeve, plus a short spacer large enough for the sleeve to slide inside and a nut to fit the tap. Start the tap into the sleeve (cutting threads on the inside, where they won't interfere with anything), then load the spacer and nut onto the tap. Turn the nut down against the spacer, to pull the tap out hopefully with the sleeve attached.

I've used this technique for the blind plugs used on the shift detents, and it works slick.

Randall, thanks for the tip, a 5/16 tap worked like a champ...