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72 & Later Fuel Tank

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Blueghost

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Previous owner had epoxy repair on aft left corner of fuel tank. Patch it is at least 10 years old, but just started leaking. Pulled tank and brazed up - found several pin holes and beginning of a couple of cracks under old patch. Quite surprised at how clean inside really is. Low point sump has minor surface rust, and a few other spots have similar surface rust. Fine mesh screen on pick-up tube is 100% clean. There may be unseen pin holes starting. Therefore, going to use some brand of polymer fuel tank liner/coating to at least extend life. All the options seem to say you must clean and etch before coating, and that if you do it right, they all work - POR-15, Kreem, Caswell, Northern, and Hirsch.

Question 1) Anyone have strong positive of negative to say about these or other products?

Question 2) Looks like pickup tube (with screen) were installed at factory before top was welded on, and not possible to remove. Is this correct? And, if so, is there a best way to clean and coat interior without damaging or clogging screed.

Question 3) I can see some sort of baffle hiding in there. Obviously fuel drains out just fine. Any tips as to how to get coating everywhere, or are the baffles not a problem.

Thanks for your experience.
Blueghost
 
You can't coat the tank without plugging up the screen. Other folks gave coated, poked hokes in screen and relued on external fuel filters.
 
I did por 15 without an etch but it didn't stick, may also have had some water left in there too...
 
Jim,
If I am understanding, - there is no way to remove suction tube or screen prior to coating, and it is going to get plugged up. Simply poke holes in tank screen and use an external filter. Easy enough, and that's what I expected. Nice to hear from someone that has already done it.

Any input on those baffling baffles?

Thanks, Blueghost
 
I have not done myself but I'm sure others will comment
 
My 2 cents. There are things worth repairing and things worth replacing. Gas tanks are worth replacing - they aren't real expensive and you are good for another 40 years - there is a safety issue here as well.
 
John-Peter,

I agree whole heartedly with your replace/repair thoughts. And if my tank was in poor condition, I would be looking for a tank.

I have just cleaned (extensively) with acetone to remove varnish/fuel deposits. I have read that sloshing around with a length of chain inside can knock rust loose. I used a 5-pound box of drywall nails with the acetone, and it works much better. They have sharp edges, they are harder, and they get into smaller spots than a chain.

Next, I treated with a couple cups of Eastwood Fast Etch. I have used it a lot, and it works great - it eats rust, leaves a phosphorus coating that stops future corrosion, and is excellent as a bonding agent.

Today I will coat with a quart of Northern tank sealer ($34).

Still baffled by the baffles. More detailed inspection with a light bulb in tank and a good mirror seems to show that there is what looks like a 9" round, 4" high 'pan' in there on the left side. It is spot welded to tank lid. Can't see the very back, but it almost looks like it is put in there, not a a baffle, but as something to actually take up space, therefore not allowing full usage of the tank. My description may not be good, and it is certainly baffling. The visible side is definitely 'sauce pan shaped' - that is, it has round sides, flat bottom with rounded edges. Did Ralph Nader convince the safety-for-all regulators (1978) that anything over a 6 gallon tank needs more support, and the British Leyland answer was to restrict the quantity - like putting 2 bricks in a toilet tank to save flush water?

Thanks for any info. Blueghost
 
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