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7/8" Sway Bar Ripped Out

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McMaster-Car has a set of 3/4" black steel clamp collars with set screws that I just bought
 
Sorry for digging up old topics, but this thread is the closest thing I could find to what I'm looking for.

I have a 1970 MG Midget, and I intend to rebuild the front suspension this spring. I want to add a sway bar (obviously not a 7/8ths bar... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif ) get polyurethane bushings, new bearings and uprated springs. The reason for this, is that my car seems to have VERY loose suspension. Now, I've never driven another Midget, or even pushed down on one's fender, but I do believe mine is somewhat worn. Anyway, what I want to know is:

What would be a better choice for excellent handling, the 400lb/inch springs or the 340lb/inch springs? The reason I don't simply assume the 400lb/inch is because VB sells the 340s for just $100/set, and I believe the 400s are special order from moss.
Does the VB swaybar kit include EVERYTHING you need to install a swaybar to a car not originally equipped with one? If not, is there one? Or what should I do?

All I want is for the car to keep flat in the curves. ANY information you can give me on this would be a great help.

Thanks - Tim.
 
Check the Moss catalog, it is all listed and available.
 
i'm running the 340lbs springs from moss with a DIY conversion to tube shocks (intended for a dodge colt) and I'm very happy with the combo. I've presently got a 9/16" sway bar and I think a 5/8" sway bar with my present springs and shocks will be perfect.
 
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I finally got around to fixing it last night. I built some high strength sway bar links also because the stock ones kept coming apart. The ones I built are far better and slightly cheaper too!

IMG_5008.jpg


All the parts came from McMaster-Carr. If you want to see specific information and part numbers I have them on my website:

https://www.britishcarsforum.com/projects.php?Project=69Sprite

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My McMaster-Carr box was delivered today. If it isn't too windy, I'll have mine in the car tonight. Otherwise, I'll fabricate them tonicht, and install them on the weekend. Thanks for part numbers on your website. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/angel.gif

I'm thinking of grinding one or both of the parts to make them bottom out at the correct angle to each other and get as close to the original length as possible. Once that is accomplished, I will drill the female threded portions and tap them for a set-screw that goes into a dimple in the threaded rod. Do you see anything wrong with my plan? Did you use any sort of washers or bushings on the studs?

Thanks,
Steve

Oh yeah! My electronic ignition crapped out on Sunday /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nopity.gif and that box came today too. Maybe it will be the weekend before I get all of the new doodads on and get my toy back on the road.
 
"I'm thinking of grinding one or both of the parts to make them bottom out at the correct angle to each other and get as close to the original length as possible. Once that is accomplished, I will drill the female threded portions and tap them for a set-screw that goes into a dimple in the threaded rod."

You can use crush washers or shims to tighten and get correct angles. If both sides are exactly the same length the actual length is not as important, if close. Should not need to drill for set screw. Even if the two joints are loose, wont affect anything.
 
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