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I have a 1966 1098 Rib Case Transmission'd Midget and the driver's front floorpan is rusted through at the edges. The car came with an uninstalled new full driver's floorpan. I am debating selling or fixing. The previous owner's wife necessitated an unfinished restoration to vacate the garage. I had planned on converting the car to a K series Rover 1.6 but then bought another member's finished Midget 1500 Race project instead.
SO I had planned on having the whole car apart and converted and to do the floor then but now I am looking at the idea of ONLYy doing the floor if that's possible without too much disassembly. If it's too much a PITA then I will just sell the car and let someone else on the list have a whack at it.
Doug - have you worked with metal before? Have a grinder / MIG?
It really isn't that hard, and there are likely to be welders you can hire for a couple of hours (not even that long) if you have roughed-in the floors.
I have done a floor in an MGB and welded..just not sure if i care to do the work . I guess i could ust remove the carpet and seats and then be careful. The car probably deserves a better going over than I am prepared to give it. No time,money, or equipment at the moment. Focused on other car.
The panel adhesive idea sounds intriguing.. what kind exactly did you use?
If i decide to sell the car... anyone lusting after it?
So I would just cut the offending floor out,fashion a suitable overlapping floor patch and then just clean off the edges and "bond"?
Sounds too easy and almost do-able.
It ~IS~!!! I used the SEM product but doubt there's a ton of difference.
BTW: My skepticism caused me to first do a LOT of messin' with the stuff... I'm a former "metal mite" from the rust belt: Level II NDT inspector in a steel mill. I TORTURED some sample pieces, even used dissimilar metals for some of the trials.
Tensile, shear, torque and IMPACT.
If ya follow the recommended procedures he stuff simply works.
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