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TR4/4A 64 TR4 Restoration
- Thread starter Reggie5
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Geo Hahn
Yoda
Offline
Hey Reggie -- welcome to the forum!
Hopefully you realize that the change from wire to alloys will require longer studs unless you keep the knock-off hubs and use alloys that mount with your big knock-off nut.
I recently (after 38 years of TR ownership) succumbed to alloy wheels and do enjoy the difference a wider tire can make. The pics in my post in the Triumph Gallery section (top of the TR Forum page) show 195/65 tires on 15x5.5 rims. This gives much more of a contact patch w/o (I think) looking to big for the TR4.
I went with Bridgestone Potenza (Pole Position) tires on the strength of list recommendations.
If you are going the knock-off hub/alloy wheel route... there is a forum member/TR4A owner who recently did this using the wheels available from Moss, hopefully he will comment. I have seen the car (and chased him down a tweisty highway or 2) and can say they look great.
Note: you say 'mag wheels' but I assume you simply mean alloy wheels. If you are really considering Magnesium wheels that is a whole nuther discussion.
As for windscreens -- I found that any local windshield supplier was able to source a replacement from the nearest big city (Phoeniz in my case). Brand supplied was Pilkington which, I htink, is a British company (though the glass was not necessarily British made).
Hopefully you realize that the change from wire to alloys will require longer studs unless you keep the knock-off hubs and use alloys that mount with your big knock-off nut.
I recently (after 38 years of TR ownership) succumbed to alloy wheels and do enjoy the difference a wider tire can make. The pics in my post in the Triumph Gallery section (top of the TR Forum page) show 195/65 tires on 15x5.5 rims. This gives much more of a contact patch w/o (I think) looking to big for the TR4.
I went with Bridgestone Potenza (Pole Position) tires on the strength of list recommendations.
If you are going the knock-off hub/alloy wheel route... there is a forum member/TR4A owner who recently did this using the wheels available from Moss, hopefully he will comment. I have seen the car (and chased him down a tweisty highway or 2) and can say they look great.
Note: you say 'mag wheels' but I assume you simply mean alloy wheels. If you are really considering Magnesium wheels that is a whole nuther discussion.
As for windscreens -- I found that any local windshield supplier was able to source a replacement from the nearest big city (Phoeniz in my case). Brand supplied was Pilkington which, I htink, is a British company (though the glass was not necessarily British made).
TR4nut
Yoda
Offline
Reggie-
Welcome to the forum, and hello also from a southern-based Cheesehead. As Geo notes, going to bolt on alloys will require longer studs - this is actually more difficult on TR3s and TR4s as the rear studs are threaded and peened onto the rear hubs. They can be changed, but it is not a simple 'knock out the old, press in the new' method as most studs allow.
Welcome to the forum, and hello also from a southern-based Cheesehead. As Geo notes, going to bolt on alloys will require longer studs - this is actually more difficult on TR3s and TR4s as the rear studs are threaded and peened onto the rear hubs. They can be changed, but it is not a simple 'knock out the old, press in the new' method as most studs allow.
M_Pied_Lourd
Darth Vader
Offline
Same with the front studs....you need to seperate the hub from the rotor in order to get the longer studs in for the alloy wheels.
The studs are splined on the bottom. I suggest giving them a light tap into the back of the flange and then use a wheels studs to tighten them up and pull the splines up to fully seat in the flange.
You might want to get them seated partially before attaching the rotor back on and then complete the task one the rotor is back on the hub.
Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd
The studs are splined on the bottom. I suggest giving them a light tap into the back of the flange and then use a wheels studs to tighten them up and pull the splines up to fully seat in the flange.
You might want to get them seated partially before attaching the rotor back on and then complete the task one the rotor is back on the hub.
Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd
Offline
If it weren't for folks like Geo, I'm not sure my car could have survived all these years. Every bit of advice you'd ever need is right here. A great place to be.
Yes, like Geo, I went with Bridgestone Potenza, 195-65, with 15" 5.5 inch knock off alloy eight spoke minilite style wheels from Moss, and added a new steering rack at the same time.
I really like the tighter, more flat, level ride.
I chose knock offs because I thought it would be easier to go back and forth with my wire wheels, and I like the look of the chrome knock off.
My wheel studs are also cut short for the splined hubs, so I didn't want to get into replacing them with the longer ones, then adding spacers when going back and forth to wires. I just took the route that was easiest for me.
Good luck.
Yes, like Geo, I went with Bridgestone Potenza, 195-65, with 15" 5.5 inch knock off alloy eight spoke minilite style wheels from Moss, and added a new steering rack at the same time.
I really like the tighter, more flat, level ride.
I chose knock offs because I thought it would be easier to go back and forth with my wire wheels, and I like the look of the chrome knock off.
My wheel studs are also cut short for the splined hubs, so I didn't want to get into replacing them with the longer ones, then adding spacers when going back and forth to wires. I just took the route that was easiest for me.
Good luck.
trfourtune
Jedi Knight
Offline
I believe that panasports have the better quality than "the others". New wheels should have near zero run-out on the sides and the diameter (less than .004" preferrably .002" or less). They should also not require additional balance weight before mounting tires (or as little as possible). I know that TABCON has tried other makes and sent them all back.
Rob
Rob