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'63 Midget research
- Thread starter jvandyke
- Start date
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racingenglishcars
Darth Vader
Offline
Engine and tranny are easy enough to pull, I would get that 22000 mile tranny and just change it. If they said there is only 2000 mi on the clutch, it will be obvious when it comes out, and they're good for many more miles than that!
If the clutch causes problems later, address the problems at that time.
If you change the disk, change the T/O bearing also. Changing the pressure plate is optional.
If you've never done a clutch, don't try a trans rebuild yet.
And again - don't let the "well I may as well..." monster get you!
If the clutch causes problems later, address the problems at that time.
If you change the disk, change the T/O bearing also. Changing the pressure plate is optional.
If you've never done a clutch, don't try a trans rebuild yet.
And again - don't let the "well I may as well..." monster get you!
OP
jvandyke
Luke Skywalker
Offline
Very good.
I'll get the hopefully decent box.
Pull mine.
Examine clutch parts renew or reuse depending on findings.
Oil Leak: not sure where the leak is coming from yet, but I'll do a clean and run and check to see if I can pin point it, then replace the offending oil seal.
Button her back up and hope to be good for a while.
BTW I occasionly have some pretty pronounced "judder" taking off in 1st, will examine clutch components of course but bad mounts could be the cause too, no? So I'll be sure and examine them closely as well and renew as needed.
Thanks again for the input.
Probably time to kill this thread as it has certainly departed from "'63 Midget Research" into gearbox area.
I'll start posting again from a new or similar old thread when I start in on it.
PS yesterday's run through the country side was simply incredible. I love it. I did drain and refill the differential yesterday before I left, was able to do it without jacking the car up, that's nice. Went with 80/90 gear oil I believe, which should be alright no? At least there was something in there when I drained it! So it at least wasn't dry!!
Have to do a full lube and adjust brakes, if not rebuild them which is no big deal. Ebrake has WAY TOO much travel.
I'll get the hopefully decent box.
Pull mine.
Examine clutch parts renew or reuse depending on findings.
Oil Leak: not sure where the leak is coming from yet, but I'll do a clean and run and check to see if I can pin point it, then replace the offending oil seal.
Button her back up and hope to be good for a while.
BTW I occasionly have some pretty pronounced "judder" taking off in 1st, will examine clutch components of course but bad mounts could be the cause too, no? So I'll be sure and examine them closely as well and renew as needed.
Thanks again for the input.
Probably time to kill this thread as it has certainly departed from "'63 Midget Research" into gearbox area.
I'll start posting again from a new or similar old thread when I start in on it.
PS yesterday's run through the country side was simply incredible. I love it. I did drain and refill the differential yesterday before I left, was able to do it without jacking the car up, that's nice. Went with 80/90 gear oil I believe, which should be alright no? At least there was something in there when I drained it! So it at least wasn't dry!!
Have to do a full lube and adjust brakes, if not rebuild them which is no big deal. Ebrake has WAY TOO much travel.
racingenglishcars
Darth Vader
Offline
OP
jvandyke
Luke Skywalker
Offline
Got the gearbox, seems dang nice to me. Spins freely.
Here's a video.
https://gallery.mac.com/jvandyke#100115
Guy was great, just starting back in on a project to create a Sebring Midget. Cool. Has the flip front and hardtop done on the shell, starting in on making his own rollup side windows.
85hp 1275 sitting close at the ready
BTW
Got my turn signal indicator working.
Got my brake lights workin (leads had fallen off the switch).
Looking through schematic now for leads on why no lights.
I can't figure out the fusebox deal. I'll get a picture.
Here's a video.
https://gallery.mac.com/jvandyke#100115
Guy was great, just starting back in on a project to create a Sebring Midget. Cool. Has the flip front and hardtop done on the shell, starting in on making his own rollup side windows.
85hp 1275 sitting close at the ready
BTW
Got my turn signal indicator working.
Got my brake lights workin (leads had fallen off the switch).
Looking through schematic now for leads on why no lights.
I can't figure out the fusebox deal. I'll get a picture.
OP
jvandyke
Luke Skywalker
Offline
Guess I'll update on this thread anyway.
Engine out, old gearbox pulled, inspection plate off nothing blatantly obvious but turning the input shaft by hand and shifting gears reveals that even though the fork pushes onto 4th gear, nothing engages, input shaft spinning merrily, output nada. If I spin the output shaft the gears move up until the point where 4th is. Once it did grab and 4th worked (in fact, during the last drive I got in 4th twice but later could not again). Difference between off the engine on is before, when on I couldn't even get the stick down where 4th should be, now off I can get the stick there but nothing catches (9 times out of 10).
Small piece of metal shaving sticking out from under the brass slider fork thing. No other chunks in the case but there was another when I drained it before the pull. So not sure what's up with it, doesn't matter, replacement box on it's way in.
Just trying to decide how many other things to disturb. Release bearing, clutch plate, pressure plate......don't know. Probably down right silly not to keep digging and at least inspect the clutch plate, no?
Engine out, old gearbox pulled, inspection plate off nothing blatantly obvious but turning the input shaft by hand and shifting gears reveals that even though the fork pushes onto 4th gear, nothing engages, input shaft spinning merrily, output nada. If I spin the output shaft the gears move up until the point where 4th is. Once it did grab and 4th worked (in fact, during the last drive I got in 4th twice but later could not again). Difference between off the engine on is before, when on I couldn't even get the stick down where 4th should be, now off I can get the stick there but nothing catches (9 times out of 10).
Small piece of metal shaving sticking out from under the brass slider fork thing. No other chunks in the case but there was another when I drained it before the pull. So not sure what's up with it, doesn't matter, replacement box on it's way in.
Just trying to decide how many other things to disturb. Release bearing, clutch plate, pressure plate......don't know. Probably down right silly not to keep digging and at least inspect the clutch plate, no?
OP
jvandyke
Luke Skywalker
Offline
Thought I'd better recap this thread. Car is back on the road (needs slave cylinder rebuild so I'm not driving it yet).
But gearbox swap done successfully, so yes anyone can do it.
Thanks guys for supporting me through it.
https://gallery.mac.com/jvandyke#100146
But gearbox swap done successfully, so yes anyone can do it.
Thanks guys for supporting me through it.
https://gallery.mac.com/jvandyke#100146
