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59 TR3A Fuel Pump

Donald1107

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I am replacing my fuel pump. The TR3 Owners Workshop Manual in chapter 3, section 6 speaks of a slotted nut on the rear stud attaching the fuel pump. My fuel pump is not working, so I removed it to install a replacement pump. The rear nut is identical to the front nut: no slot. Can someone tell me or show me what this slotted nut looks like, and why it is slotted? The Manual makes a point of returning this slotted nut to the rear stud, but the fuel pump used to work fine the way it is. Moss catalogue does not list a slotted nut.
 

CJD

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I think the special nut goes on the oil filter/regulator pad...the one that has the banjo for the oil pressure line. I don't recall any special hardware on the fuel pump.
 

Jim_Stevens

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Likewise... Done it a few times, too. Just a couple of bolts.
 

BarryO

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My 59 TR3A fuel pump is working fine right now but think a rebuild is in its future, looks a wee bit wet on the underside.
Any recommendations on quality rebuild kits would be appreciated very much
 

Jim_Stevens

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The only issue I had was that the cork seal for the glass bowl was dried out and leaked gas. Rec you form another gasket from another material—
 
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Donald1107

Donald1107

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Thank you guys for replying. I’ll button up the replacement fuel pump with the nuts that held it on originally. I don’t know where the Workshop Manual got this “ slotted nut” notion, but it doesn’t make sense as far as I can tell.
 
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Donald1107

Donald1107

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Okay, guys: more help requested. I replaced my fuel pump with a new one from Moss Motors. Buttoned it up and squeezed the priming lever hundreds of times. No gas filled the sediment bowl. So I put suction on the fuel pipe to the carburetors. Still no gas. To make a very long story shorter, I’ve tried everything I can think of to get it to pump gas. This included checking the fuel lines and new hoses to assure none were plugged. Guessing that the liquid fuel pump doesn’t pump air, perhaps there’s a way to liquid fill the pump (in place) to prime it to pump gasoline. Any suggestions? I even cleaned and put back in the original fuel pump, and the priming lever doesn’t fill the glass bowl on it, either.
 

Hamish Racing

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It should pump air enough to get the fuel flowing.
Perhaps the 2 valves are in the wrong way ? Circled yellow in the pic. Or the diaphragm is holed. This is what let me down before. I know you say it’s a new one but I’m afraid that is no endorsement.
Also have you made sure the engine lever is “on top of the cam”

does fuel flow out of the pipe when it’s lowered below floor level? It should. If not get an air line on the pipe back to the tank and blow it through as it sounds like a blockage. Doesn’t have to be high pressure tank it can be a little elec tyre pump or foot pump.
Can you pressure the tank a bit ? To get the flow.
 

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sp53

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The fuel line sounds blocked. What happens when you blow air back to the tank with the fuel line unhooked at the pump from the tank? Does gas flow out when the line from the tank to fuel pump is unhooked? It should. If you have fuel, maybe prim the carburetors to get the car running and sucking fuel. The fuel pumps pull more than they put out.

steve
 

mctriumph

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Be aware that there are re-pop pumps that are crap .Look at the lever and how it is installed.
In the OE, a roll pin is pressed through the housing/arm. The "new design" has a roll pin that is set
into a grove in the housing with metal mashed over to "hold it in place" It will for about the first mile or so.
My only idea is to get a kit and re-build your OE pump .Not hard to do and works like a champ unless
your old pump is badly worn.......
MD(Mad dog)
 

TRopic6

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In the past I've loosened the wire hanger for the glass sediment bowl, let it fill up, then tightened. Its like there was an air block, or maybe the check valves don't seal until they get wet. Like MD, I've had no problems rebuilding originals.

Jeff
 

karls59tr

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I mounted an electric fuel pump underneath the car about midway along the length of the car. Installed a fuel filter just before the pump(easy to visually inspect and change there). I was having issues with crap in the tank getting into the fuel line. With the electric pump you get better starting,less strain on the starter from cranking, no vapor lock. Some people like the originality of the stock pump and that's fine but for me this is a big improvement.
Also you can wire in under the dash an on/off toggle switch in the power line to the pump and if someone steals the car they wont get far.:cool:
 

Geo Hahn

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new fuel pump on 72 triumph tr6...still will not start..

Your first step might be to confirm that the problem it is a lack of fuel. There are several ways to do this: Looking in the throat of the carbs, spraying starting fluid into the intake, seeing if the spark plugs are wet after cranking, etc.

At the very least confirm you have spark at the plugs.

As I recall, a TR6 fuel pump does not have a glass bowl so there is no opportunity for direct inspection there. It should have a priming lever which can be worked to try to move fuel . You can possibly tell by feel if that lever is really pumping fuel - but only if you have used it in the past and know what that should feel like.

These pumps prime better if there is a lot of gas in the tank - not as well if the tank is low and the level is near the same as the pump. How full is your tank?

For a simple 'what to try?' you might get the tank up to half full if you can then use a bit of starting fluid to get the engine to fire briekly, that may be enough to get a recalcitrant pump to take over.

Of course, you could have a bum part but really these pumps are so simple and nearly fool-proof that a bad new one seems unlikely.
 
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Donald1107

Donald1107

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Thank you (and others) for your ideas. I have tried several and none work. For the record, the engine starts and runs smoothly when I fill the SU carb float bowls. I have concluded that neither the original nor the replacement (new) fuel pumps pump air enough to draw gasoline into the pumps. Basically vapor lock. The fuel line from the tank to the pump is open. So my next attempt to prime the new pump is to hook the inlet to an elevated container of gas, disconnect the hose to the front carb float bowl, and pump the priming lever until it squirts gas out the front carb hose (into a jar). Once liquid filled, I’m confident the fuel pump will work well.

thanks again.
 

Geo Hahn

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... I have concluded that neither the original nor the replacement (new) fuel pumps pump air enough to draw gasoline into the pumps...
How much gas is in your tank? Really helps to have a fairly full tank when the pump is trying to get fuel moving.

I always carry a cheap electric pump fitted with 5/16" (in) and 1/4" (out) lines for a quick get-me-home repair -- but it can also be used to prime the system.

Electric Fuel Pump.JPG


Bridges the metal line from the tank to the metal input to the front carb. Clips connect to ground and the coil (so it shuts off when the ignition is off.
 
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Donald1107

Donald1107

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I Googled E8318 fuel pump and found an Airtex E8318 electric pump. The website had a make & model choice to see if this pump worked on your engine. It said that it did not work on a 1959 Triumph TR3.

What brand is your pump pictured? This is a good idea.
 

TomMull

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Can I assume that your car does not have a shut off tap?

Tom
 

mctriumph

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News Flash!! NEVER use any hose that is not fuel injection grade!! The Chinese have been selling cheap
fuel hose for many years. The resulting problems will make you quite mad. They can crack (and will!)or they will swell shut
inside. Do your self a huge favor replace all of these horrible fuel hoses with the good stuff! (avert disaster)
MD(mad dog)
 
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