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59 b/e floorpan replace

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Bob_s

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i have replacement pans l&r and was looking for some feedback on how to get the car on stands high enough to do it on my back..i'm assuming by looking at it the spring plates have to come off rendering the axle useless as a jacking point? it looks to me that getting the back of the car up and safe will be a challenge..any thoughts out there from someone that has done it?
 
Normally most folk don't do it from below. Drill out the welds, and the floorplan pops out. USe spot weld cutter and away you go. Either that or put it on a rotisserie made up of a couple of engine stands.
 
body and paint's excellent and paint job less than a year old. that is an interesting idea..if paint wasn't so fresh that would be an option..my main concern i guess is the spring plate, getting it down and floor installed..when you pull off that plate does the spring come with it or will it stay in the box?
 
The spring box is not attached to the floor pan if I remeber correctly.

Before you go any further is the spring box area in good shape?

If not replacing the floor pan is a bandage
 
Here's another technique for getting at the floor pans.
 

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spring boxes look good( as far as i can tell). i guess you really don't know until you get in there..
 
nice pic sarastro, i've taken some chances in life but if i did that i'd be wearing, or at least eating a big chunk of that truck..how lucky can some guys get?
 
mightymidget said:
The spring box is not attached to the floor pan if I remeber correctly.

Before you go any further is the spring box area in good shape?

If not replacing the floor pan is a bandage
Click to expand...

Actually the <span style="text-decoration: underline">entire</span> spring box is spot welded to the floor pan, plus the spring box plates are lap welded over the top of the spot welds, plus the driveline tunnel "doubler"(which has to come off) is spot welded to the floor pan. If my spring boxes were good, I'd cut the floor pans in front of the inner bulkhead and remove all the spot welds forward of that cut and just splice the new floor boards in with a nice flange seam where you made the cut. Are you'r floor pans only rotted out in the front depressions or along the sides? Most I've seen are rotted under the spring box area as well. Particularly on the outboard ends.
 
mark..i cleaned up around the spring box today on the inside and the floor is rotted where the stiffener and the curved piece going up the bulkhead meet, also shot in spots along the outer sill area. i also have a [censored] p o repair in the front that has to go..i'd say i'd probably have to get that plate off to do it correctly..any tips? i bought 2 lg. repair panels for both sides to make it more workable in my garage rather than trying to do the whole pan at once..thanks, bob
 
Here's what my rust looks like in the same area of my bugeye.
IMG_5231.jpg

IMG_5233.jpg


I'm curious to see the final results of your fix. I am planning on dealing with this next summer if all goes well.
 
See... it is as easy as 1,2,3!

:smile:
 
May I be the first to offer you the best luck in removeing the springs without drilling the bolts out. Took me three days.
 
That's my summer project, getting the rest of the parts off the body and figuring out what to do about the body work. The pictures from racingnglishcars are very encouraging, though I'm a little nervous about doing the work myself! :eeek:
 
this is my winter project, hopefully not for the next 3 winters..jack, which bolts are you referring to? the 4 that go thru the floor into the plate or do i have to look forward to some other nightmare(s)?
 
Yep, the oned that go into the plate really go up through the spring and thread into a plate on top. Spring will not come out without removeing plate. so I twisted the bolts off then drilled em out. Eight bits later for each. Hope you have much better luck.

But I did it.
 
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