59 100-6 Wiring Question

[ljeffclark]

I am in the process of restoring a 1959 100-6 which had the engine out when I bought it, which unfortunatly means I didn't see all the wiring connections before they were removed.

There is, what apears to be, a grounding lug located on the right side (passenger) frame rail, just below the starter solenoid which appears to have been connected to a short grounding cable which in turn is connected directly to the chassis. I am assuming the lug is in place to allow a stable connection to to another wire / cable but can someone please tell me what connects to the lug and the ground cable?

 

[GregW]

My ground strap was connected from the frame (where you mentioned) to the bell housing bolt closest to the clutch slave cylinder.

 

[Keoke]

HI IJeffclark, An alternate location for the engine to chassis ground strap is from the Boss on the chassis directly to one of the starter mounting bolts.The strap is a one piece braided flat cable that can be obtained from most of the LBC suppliers.Just make sure you have that connection in place before you attempt to start the car.---Fwiw--Keoke

 

[zblu]

Its to make sure engine can get efficient voltage given all is sitting on rubber mounts

 

[Keoke]

[ QUOTE ]
Its to make sure engine can get efficient voltage given all is sitting on rubber mounts

[/ QUOTE ] Yep zBLU, everthing but those choke /cold air cables.---Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Patton]

My original harness was in awful shape, and most of the routing was incorrect. I bought a new harness and started installing it, but have hit a wall. I have the engine bay ruting figured out, my probelm is where and how the wires go from there. The behind the dash the harness looks like a rats nest, I can just hook them to the gauges, but I'm not sure how it's supposed to look to be clean. Are thier any locations for clips? I haven't found any. Also, I need to figure out the correct places to run the wires toward the back of the car and the overdrive.

Can anyone point me to a good set of pictures that I can refer to match where the wires go? Cheap me is trying not to spend $$$$ on a set of restoration photos that I understand does not do a good job on the wiring harness details.

Patton

 

[Keoke]

Hi Patton, I think greg may come along and he may have some pictures that will help you out a bit.How about a buddy with a similar car??--Fwiw---Keoke

 

[Patton]

Not many early 100-6's around here. It seems we are a club full of BJ8's and AN5's. A couple BN2's are in the rotation as well...

Patton

 

[Keoke]

Well, this is pretty general, but do you know how to route the separate rear harness from the engine bay down along the drivers foot well, then underneath the car where it is periodically fitted with metal clamps to the frame.it splits at the rear with a portion of it feeding the fuel pump and the larger half entering the boot, then running from the left hand side of the car over to the right hand side where again it is fitted with clamps just under the rear shroud support .???___Keoke

 

[GregW]

Heeeeeeyyyyyyyy!? Be nice, it’s my birthday. Turns out I do have a picture, but being a BJ8, I can’t swear it’s the same. The only “clip” I had was an aluminum ancestor to the zip tie which attaches the harness to the wiper cable cover above the steering column. My harness route is straight back from the firewall over the heater, then branches out to the switches on the console and over the steering column for the gauges.

 

[Keoke]

[ QUOTE ]
Heeeeeeyyyyyy The only “clip” I had was an aluminum ancestor to the zip tie which attaches the harness to the wiper cable cover .--------So why didn't you put that thing in a piece of shrink tubing before you put it back in Greg.??? Thats what I did to mine, gives peace of mind.--Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[GregW]

When someone asks “So what IS original on this car?” I can say “I’ll show you, but you have to crawl under the dash. HA!!” /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif Actually, that photo was a before shot. I went with the plastic zip ties when the harness went back in. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif Shrink tubing, good.

 

[Keoke]

AH-SO! Good for you Greg, your head was in the right place. It is absolutely amazing that these cars do not suffer catastrophic short circuits more often, given the number of bare metal clamps used in direct contact with the wiring harness.---Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[whit_iii]

I am just curious if you have the original service manual for the 100-6. If so, how useful has this been in answering questions like this?

I too am restoring a 58'/59' AH 100-6 and have the manual. I literally just started the project within the last week. I would be curious as to the progress you have made and if you have a project plan assembled. My car was essentially intact with the exception of the interior, which was home to a family of four (critters) for the last 30 years in a barn.

 

[bighly]

Guys,
May I recommend that you go to a Healey event and bring a digital camera. Speak to the owners, most are happy to let you photograph anything. They may even ask if you know the "correct" way to wire this or route that. I relied on the wiring diagrams and common sense. After looking over a number of cars I have been "correcting" things as I find them. Routing under the dash was for me a combination of the length of the various bits of harness and keeping a mindful eye on dangerous exposed connections. I can make a warning not to allow the heater pull cables rest against the gage lamp slider switch. I let the smoke out of this part of the harness the very first time I turned it on in heavy traffic. Fortunatly this was only a 6 inch piece of wire that was easily replaced. Choose good grounding points, solder bullet connectors and spades, use black heat shrink to beautify and don't be afraid to add insulation to such wires as those leading to the OD solinoid (20 amps engegement current!). I added ground straps to all gages. Hope this helps.