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A friend has a 58 TR3A. He had some warm no start issues (let us not talk ethanol and heat soak). I thought possible could be the coil getting too hot increasing resistance and lowering the high volts delivered to the plugs, and adjusted the voltage regulator shutoff down a tad 1/8 turn counter-clockwise on screw thinking at high rpm could have caused too high a running voltage (this lowering was actually reversal since prior adjusted voltage regulator shutoff up opposite, 5/8 turn clockwise, according to Lucas procedure since running voltage at 3,000 rpm was way too low so battery was not charging, so originally raised regulator to 16v at 3,000 rpm as instructed by Lucas). He still had one slight warm no start since reversed a tad, but not driven much.
Yesterday tested the 1968 HA12 45208A non-ballasted coil. It was about 180°F after short ride 2 miles, mounted on side of engine, so does not say much. If he ever has a future new no warm start problem after long ride, asked him to touch the coil to see if massively hot. Checked coil readings (took several with two cheap millimeters and adjusted for calibration) and got:
2.9-3.5Ω on the primary
8.7K-9KΩ on the secondary
The secondary seems low compared to replacement DBL105 spec at 2.8Ω prim 10.45KΩ secondary, and DBL101 at 2.9Ω prim and 10.9KΩ secondary.
So it seems his coil is coming up about an Ohm and a half short on the secondary winding against replacement specs.
1.) Looking for advice. Is the coil too far out of tolerance due to low Ohms on the secondary windings that the old coil should be replaced with the DBL105? Anyone suggest or recommend that? I have no idea if this is too far out of tolerance. Or are things good to go, and do nothing?
2.) If he does replace, is it highly suggested to be better to upgrade to a ballasted coil and ballast as opposed to stock DBL105 non-ballasted?
3.) If the coil is bad, weak, would the low secondary Ohms resistance lead to higher amperage delivered and the coil getting too hot raising resistance so the high voltage jacked up coil output falls and thus no warm start (and noting running voltage off the generator is higher than battery when starting)? Am I thinking possibilities correctly or in err?
Thanks for any replies.
Yesterday tested the 1968 HA12 45208A non-ballasted coil. It was about 180°F after short ride 2 miles, mounted on side of engine, so does not say much. If he ever has a future new no warm start problem after long ride, asked him to touch the coil to see if massively hot. Checked coil readings (took several with two cheap millimeters and adjusted for calibration) and got:
2.9-3.5Ω on the primary
8.7K-9KΩ on the secondary
The secondary seems low compared to replacement DBL105 spec at 2.8Ω prim 10.45KΩ secondary, and DBL101 at 2.9Ω prim and 10.9KΩ secondary.
So it seems his coil is coming up about an Ohm and a half short on the secondary winding against replacement specs.
1.) Looking for advice. Is the coil too far out of tolerance due to low Ohms on the secondary windings that the old coil should be replaced with the DBL105? Anyone suggest or recommend that? I have no idea if this is too far out of tolerance. Or are things good to go, and do nothing?
2.) If he does replace, is it highly suggested to be better to upgrade to a ballasted coil and ballast as opposed to stock DBL105 non-ballasted?
3.) If the coil is bad, weak, would the low secondary Ohms resistance lead to higher amperage delivered and the coil getting too hot raising resistance so the high voltage jacked up coil output falls and thus no warm start (and noting running voltage off the generator is higher than battery when starting)? Am I thinking possibilities correctly or in err?
Thanks for any replies.
