TR2/3/3A 57 TR3 Newbie...No spark? Basket case

[Beerzz]

Owned it for 15 years and it has sat in a damp shop, bought it from a field and never heard it run. My son and I race autocross and decided to bring it back from the dead and race it for fun. Trying to get spark and get the motor to run before we remove it and move forward. I have juice to the coil and it turns over. I want to get parts ordered, but I could use some help first. I bought a new coil (12 volt internal ballast) and nothing. The car is pos ground, and Im not sure, but ran the neg to the dist. Still nothing. Need some advice please. Sorry for the long post.

 

[DrEntropy]

Sounds like points may need cleaning. small piece of #600 wet-or-dry folded so you can work it thru the points while they're closed.

Tho 15 years sitting static is a looong time.

Welcome to the forum, too! And I really like your choice of username! :wink:

 

[Beerzz]

Thanks, I tried sanding the points, thinking about getting some ignition parts from the Roadster Factory?

 

[DrEntropy]

Try NAPA first if you want to get stuff now. "Standard" makes good iggy bits, replacements for Lucas are listed.

 

[PeterK]

I'd guess the points are shorted to ground. There's a plastic insulator on the post the the points mounts to. If installed incorrectly, no spark. Look closely.

 

[germanmichel]

Hello Beerzz,
check additional the following items:
- opening clearance of the points should be approx 0,4mm. Try to find out the exact factory value.
- rotating of the distributor rotor (Is the inner nose on place ?)
- ingnition sequence of the spark plugs.
- dry and clean the inner side of the distributor cap seriously. If there are some minor cracks on the inner side, it is possible that the arcs diden`t find the right way to the spark plugs
-check the electric connections on coil and distributor also inside the distributor (the wire to the capacitor)
- is the capacitor ok ( 15 years....)
- does the carbon brush in the distributor cap connect to the rotor ?

I think ,if your voltage current is ok and the motor turns fast enough it should be run .

Good luck .

Bye michel- who would like to develope his english

 

[Geo Hahn]

...There's a plastic insulator on the post the the points mounts to. If installed incorrectly, no spark. Look closely.

I agree, that would be the first thing I'd check since you say "never heard it run".

That little 3-layer cake that stacks the points, the condensor wire and the flex wire from the coil needs to be insulated from the nut that secures it. Sometimes a 2-piece insulator, sometimes the 2 sections are joined by a little strap.

 

[Beerzz]

Thanks for the help guys, I will try again tonight.

 

[Beerzz]

Interesting.....Thanks

 

[Mickey Richaud]

...There's a plastic insulator on the post the the points mounts to. If installed incorrectly, no spark. Look closely.

I agree, that would be the first thing I'd check since you say "never heard it run".

That little 3-layer cake that stacks the points, the condensor wire and the flex wire from the coil needs to be insulated from the nut that secures it. Sometimes a 2-piece insulator, sometimes the 2 sections are joined by a little strap.

Yep - same with the connection on the plate where the condenser wire attaches. Usual suspects.

And welcome to the party!

Mickey

 

[Beerzz]

Thanks I have huge spark now...I saw a little smoke come out of the dist when I just tested it. Removed the wires and put the insulator nylon thru the condenser and coil feed wire and hit the solenoid button and ZAP! Great spark! Super effort!

 

[Don Elliott]

Maybe you need to try one of the new red rotors. If yours is toast, try any other TR rotor you may have on hand but get a new red one. The black repro rotors are junk and become conductive to ground like a distributor in a rain storm..

 

[DrEntropy]

The black repro rotors are junk and become conductive to ground like a distributor in a rain storm..

SURELY you meant like a <span style="font-weight: bold">TR-bloody-Three</span> dizzy in a rainstorm, Don?!?

 

[DrEntropy]

Glad ya got to th' bottom of it, Ben!

 

[deadair]

Thanks I have huge spark now...I saw a little smoke come out of the dist when I just tested it. Removed the wires and put the insulator nylon thru the condenser and coil feed wire and hit the solenoid button and ZAP! Great spark! Super effort!

Were you able to get the engine started?

 

[Andrew Mace]

The black repro rotors are junk and become conductive to ground like a distributor in a rain storm..

SURELY you meant like a <span style="font-weight: bold">TR-bloody-Three</span> dizzy in a rainstorm, Don?!?

Actually, I think he meant "BMC Distributor"....

And without trying to sound politically correct, color has nothing to do with quality of rotors. There are good new rotors out there that happen to be molded in black (Peter Caldwell of NOS Imports sells them -- NFI, just a very satisfied customer who can now keep all his very old used Lucas rotors in the glovebox rather than constantly lending them out to MGA-owning friends who burn through the cheap new ones).

 

[Beerzz]

Thanks, will do!
Ben

 

[Beerzz]

Going to try to start it tonight, thinking about pre lubing the top end first. Just to help thingz along. Im not sure why it was parked outside forever, dead. So I don't know if it a runner of a dead soldier. (god bless the vets) I will let you know what the next problem is. Thanks guys!

 

[deadair]

I read somewhere that it's best to spray in a bunch of WD-40 or Mystery Oil, turning the engine over a few times by hand, and letting it sit overnight before starting it up.

In any event, I'd encourage you to video the momentous occasion. It would make a great You Tube video.

 

[ekamm]

Spray some kind of lube through the spark plug holes and look at the fuel system chances are good that the pump is shot and any thing in the tank should come out. pull the carb bowls and clean( spray the flat needles with a little cleaner) as well as checking and filling the dampers. Ya and video is a must and post it on here that is the best entertainment for us!