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TR2/3/3A 56 TR3 Slave Installation

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mgedit

mgedit

Jedi Knight
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Just fitting the slave for the clutch. Looks like support bracket attaches to one of the oil pan bolts. Assume that is correct? Also does the fork go into the centre of the three holes in the clutch shaft "arm"? Why are the other two holes there? Do they have something to do with later adjustments? I have a new spring ordered as the one I have seems a bit overstretched.

Here is how I have it test fitted now. Does this all seem correct? Cheers, Mike

Slave.jpg


Slave2.jpg


Bracket.jpg
 
I believe the clevis goes on the lower hole, most commonly. It will work on any of them. Put it on the one where the rod is most parallel to the cylinder body.
 
Thanks. I also found a pic on an older thread that suggests it should go in the lowest hole. Parallel is logical. Cheers, Mike
 
mgedit said:
Here is how I have it test fitted now. Does this all seem correct? Cheers, Mike

Slave.jpg
Click to expand...

Oops... I think you want the slave to be mounted on the forward side of the bracket.

Also -- your slave looks a bit different from mine. Mine has more slave projecting rearward from the mounting ears, like this:

Fig6Clutchslavecylinderlinkage.jpg
 
Thanks Geo. I will reverse the slave and place on other side of bracket. I noticed that the slave I have is different looking than what I saw in pictures, but since everything on my car seems odd, I was thinking it was part of the early braking system. Is there any reason this slave might not work if it is adjusted to free-play spec given in manual? Is there a critical length for required travel of the push rod? Hope I can use this slave as it is resleeved and freshly rebuilt. Cheers, Mike
 
The early Lockheed slave is quite a bit different and gets installed differently. I'm not positive offhand, but I think the required spring and pushrod are different as well.

Here's a scan from the owner's manual (sorry for the poor quality, it's all I have handy).
 

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PS, yes the brace goes to the pan bolt. That bolt should be longer to accommodate the head of the brace (1-1/4" long rather than 3/4" for most of them).

Use the lever hole that lines up best with the slave cylinder. That same lever was used on different cars, hence the extra holes.
 
Thanks Randall. Also looks like the slave is mounted on the same side of bracket as I have mine right now. Cheers, Mike
 
fyi---my pushrod was attached to the bottom hole, but i did not feel like i was getting full clutch disengagement when the pedal was depressed. so we changed it to the middle hole, so it gets a bit more travel, and that seems to have resolved the problem.
 
Thanks. Looks like the centre hole has a very small amount ot wear, so I think that was the original location. Will experiment to see where it works best. Cheers, Mike
 
Mike - make sure you use a very thick flat washer for the bolt that secures the support rod to the bottom of the block. There is a cupped flange all around the oil pan and the washer (about 1/8" thick - or 2 to 3 standard flat washers will do) are to prevent you forcing the cupped flange flat at that point.

For as long as I can rememeber, the clevis pin was always - and still is - in the bottom hole. The rod is parallel to the central axis of the bore in my slave cylinder. It has never been an issue.

Some books say it goes in the central hole - but I tried that once and it wasn't quite the same - so I put it back to the bottom hole.

That's what is nice about these simple cars. You can try something and if you prefer it one way or the other, you can switch it back.
 
Thanks Don ... just working on that and it looks like the bottom hole is the straightest so that is what I used. Think the flat part on the support bracket clears the flange, but will check to be sure. Cheers, Mike
 
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