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56 100M on BaT

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Silverghost

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This looks to be a very complete--usually, the original cold air box is long gone--and mostly original 100M (assuming the documentation pans out). $65K or more is not out of line, given that with a relatively easy restoration--since most of the parts seem to be there and there's no apparent damage--you'd have a car worth north of $100K (possibly).

I'd like to know how a 'California car' ended up in Iowa. Also, the 100s had 48-spoke wheels--those look like 72-spoke.
 
Bidding is now ended...
 
The "true" value of the car would be a NO RESERVE auction.. This is EBAY where you can get all your friends to bid up your car and hope some sucker is the one holding the bag...

It would be cheeper to buy one done as auction prices in Sports Car Market would attest.
 
I think my Agatha is twice what that M is. Orange? No cold air box that I could see, etc. I'm not sure that Agatha would fetch 65K particularly in light of today's economy. imho.
 
There's another one on ebay now with a buy it now of $111,000 and it's not
even totally correct. Bit have seen it before and obviously has not sold.
Recently the actual 100M's ( one of the 640) have all been priced north of
100K but been no takers. I agree on the orange one, lot to be done to bring it
back and you'd probably be upside down when done.
Regards,
Mike

lusting after a 100M but guess will remain only in lust, not fulfilled !
 
Cold air box is there. It must be an early 1956 because the rear fenders do not have the cove line in them.
 
HEALEYJAG said:
The "true" value of the car would be a NO RESERVE auction.. This is EBAY where you can get all your friends to bid up your car and hope some sucker is the one holding the bag...

It would be cheeper to buy one done as auction prices in Sports Car Market would attest.
Click to expand...
Notice the Healey Werks truck in the background (on the street)?

I'd rather have the red 100 Sebring (#700)...

IMG_4144.sized.jpg


IMG_4148.sized.jpg
 
Too bad the folks who built up the oew/black one didn't know how to correctly detail a 100/M, even with the items they admit they're willing to fix. Can only imagine what the biddding might get to if......
 
richch said:
Too bad the folks who built up the oew/black one didn't know how to correctly detail a 100/M, even with the items they admit they're willing to fix. Can only imagine what the biddding might get to if......
Click to expand...

I for one would be interested in knowing what's wrong, Rich. I noticed:

- Kinda wondering about the 'M' on the boot, instead of the grill.
- Clamps on radiator hoses wrong.
- Don't think the defroster vents should be black.
- Wrong type of clips on fuel line.
- Really don't like the battery cable and brake line routed UNDER the chassis near the right rear shock--if those get crunched ...
 
Shall we work down from the top picture? This is like shooting fish in a barrel.
- bright chrome grille teeth; should be satin finish
- car has build date of 22 March, '56 and by then the duotone paint line was well established as meeting the front wheel arch and curving back to the edge.
- top seems to be a cloth version; should be black Everflex
- bottom riveted lip of back shroud to boot floor should be brush painted dull black
- rear bumper over riders missing.
- front sidelamps and rear tail lamps are later behive style; originals were flat style
- rear reflectors are later style common replacements, not correct early style
- dash is from a 6 cylinder with chrome 6 cylinder instrument pod ring. Note also the 6 cylinder style concave chrome plate in behind the grab handle, and they've mounted the fresh air pull cable knob in where the windscreen washer pump would be on the 6 cylinder dash.
- no steady springs for windscreen.
- should not have contrasting seat and arm rest piping by March '56.
- seats (especially the backs)are an awful shape, with form and contour completely lost.
- demister vent strips should be body colour.
- steering wheel is the repro nonadjustable that has the wide(wrong)spoke spacing
- as previously mentioned, the 100 flash on the boot lid, let's add the M there in the 3rd hole, and drill some more holes to place the "Austin Healey" script over on the other side of the boot lid to balance it all.
- distributor cap is later squat rounded shape replacement and plug wire ends are non original style
- detailing engine bay should include painting the copper water pipe and fuel line dull silver (no big deal)
- chassis wiring harness running along chassis rail should be wrapped in black protective tape
- brake lines appear to be the after market copper alloy set, are very poorly formed and do not follow correct routing.
- the air duct hose should go right to the front and end up immediately behind the grill slats and should be held there by a 1" wide aluminum band fastened to the outer upper grill stud fastener.
- the front and rear shocks look to have been media blasted and left that way, where they should have black phosphate arms.
Some of my observations may seem overly picky, but for the prices they want, there's no excuse.
 
Thanks, Rich.

I'm using all this info to hopefully make our M a little better (didn't know the copper lines should be painted silver--will take care of that eventually).

About the wiring along the chassis; we have a new cloth-wrapped harness, should that be wrapped in electrical tape (just where it's along the chassis rail, I presume)?
 
Bob, et al,

Sounds like you need a set of the National Concours Guidelines that covers all these details whether you ever decide to have it judged, or just want a nice accurate driver.
 
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