TR2/3/3A 3rd. brake light set up

[tomnanney]

I would like to know any idea's on adding a 3rd. brake light to a 1961 TR 3. Thanks

 

[TR3driver]

One possibility is to replace the license plate lamp with the combo lamp from an earlier TR3.


Another is to add some relays and make the turn lamps come on with the brake lights (but still flash if both brake and turn signals are on). You can buy logic devices that will do it with a single box (eg https://www.amazon.com/IIT-16690-Trailer-Converter/dp/B004EKW0DC) or build it yourself with 2 or 3 cheap automotive relays. However, either approach will require that you either change the turn flasher or add some power resistors to make the original flasher work right.

 

[Geo Hahn]

Under the heading 'crude but effective' I use half of a set of Harbor Freight towing lights (with a magnetic base) to have a 3rd brake light when I know I will be driving in city traffic:

I added a flannel pad to go between the base and the car body to avoid scratching - also important that the pad is clean and the body is clean and waxed.

Wires just sneak into the boot over the seal and connect with bullet connectors.

 

[6TTR3A]

The Hoppy converter is available on the internet or at your FLAPS. Part number is 38845
It is recommended that you convert your rear turn signal lights to LEDs.
The HOPPY converter cannot handle much more than
2.1 amps total.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
LATE 3, 3A, 3B CONVERSION
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>NEGATIVE GROUND SYSTEM ONLY<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
TRIUMPH COLOUR CODES
Black (57) = ground Red (44) = Tail lights Green w/red (18) = Left turn
Green w/purple (22)=brakes Green w/white (21)= Right turn

This converter integrates the brake lights with the turn signal lights, allowing the turn signals to function as brake lights as well. When the brakes are applied, all four lights on the rear apron are illuminated. If the turn signal is applied while the brake is applied, that filament will blink. The advantage is that you now have 4 brake lights instead of two.

Installation instructions:
Locate the loom in the trunk (boot) area. It normally comes down the right side of the body along the fender well base. Choose a spot just before the wires separate out of the loom for the right tail light. Peel back the wrapping, exposing the individual wires. If the colours are still visible, identify each wire either by number or function. Disconnect the battery.
Cut all four wires, then strip ¼” off each end. The exposed ends should be bright copper. Should the bare ends have a dark residue on them (50 years old!) scrape them with a knife edge to assure a good electrical connection. Crimp type connectors are OK, but soldering is suggested. If soldering, use shrink tubing to isolate the solder joints. Be sure to insert the tubing before soldering!! The converter needs to be grounded. Drill a hole in the fender well and attach the ground wire(s) using a sheet metal screw. Note: The inbound side of the converter has a brake wire but the outbound side does not. Once all the connections are completed, reconnect the battery and the conversion is complete.

 

[TR3driver]

The Hoppy converter is available on the internet or at your FLAPS. Part number is 38845
It is recommended that you convert your rear turn signal lights to LEDs.
The HOPPY converter cannot handle much more than
2.1 amps total.

That number appears to be obsolete, not listed on the Hopkins web site. But the 48845 appears to be similar. Website says the 2.1 amps limit is per stop outlet, which makes a little more sense.
https://www.hopkinstowingsolutions....light-converters/tail_light_converter_12.html

Curiously, the one I linked to doesn't mention a current limit (but no doubt it has one).

 

[TexasKnucklehead]

Also under the 'crude but effective' heading is using an LED assembly that fell out of a Celica spoiler. I mounted mine 'permanently' to the highest bar of the trunk rack with some plastic wire clamps. I drilled the lock to allow the wire to enter the trunk via the center of the lock (a small dab of silicon made it waterproof) and grounded to the lock (top and bottom of a mounting screw). I also added a very small in-line fuse from the regular brake light power to the 3rd light in the off chance something in the added circuit shorts out -only the 3rd light would be out and not the other brake lights.

The federal regulation for a 3rd brake light requires it to be higher than the other brake lights, and I think I am much more visible in traffic.

 

[macilona]

Moss Motors sells a slim, chrome plated, LED light...part number 116-115. I had it mounted in the small space between the gas filler cap and the top. Looks good and sits up high to be effective, and bright with the LED.

 

[TR-3rg]

Hi,
I mounted a Optronic 1" x 1.5" x 18" LED strip to the tonneau cover, in between the Lift the Dots. In the winter I can mount it to the top. I have a quick disconnect for easy mounting. One nice feature about it being so high, I can see it in the rear mirror, so I know the brake lights are working.

RG

 

[Don Elliott]

I made mine and had it chromed. It can be removed in 30 seconds if I'm at a serious event like VTR or TRA.

 

[DavidApp]

Hello Don

I like that solution. Very neat idea.

David

 

[mrv8q]

Any thoughts for a positive ground CHMSL? I do run positive ground LED brake lights...

Would love Don's solution if positive ground.

 

[mgedit]

I've seen Don's first hand and it is great. I did start out trying to duplicate something similar but found it hard to get enough clearance from filler cap, without the light looking a bit too high. In the end, I placed my extra brake light at the bottom of the licence plate (sorry not great picture). Perhaps not an ideal location but the LED is much brighter than the single centre brake light I have, and it blends in pretty well. As well, I added a flash module to that light that flashes it fast three times before going on constantly while brake pedal is pressed. Note that such a light may not be legal in some (many) places. To me it ads a lot of extra visibility and is no different than pumping the brakes at bit. The wiring is run down from the boot into the spare tire cubby and I have a simple 2-prong trailer connector there to disconnect the wires should I need to remove spare or access anything else in there. I definitely feel a bit safer now in traffic.

Cheers, Mike

 

[TR3driver]

Any thoughts for a positive ground CHMSL? I do run positive ground LED brake lights...

Would love Don's solution if positive ground.

The one that RG linked to above can be wired either way. https://www.etrailer.com/static/images/pics/s/t/stl79rb_10_250.jpg Just ground the red wire (black too if you want) and link the white wire to your brake light switch.

Others I've seen can be easily modified. Just find the ground strap (usually a strip of metal running over to a mounting hole) and cut it, then solder a wire to the cut end from the lamp.