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General Tech 3D Printing

martx-5

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My son got a 3D printer about a month ago, and have had him make me a few things, but yesterday, I had him make something for the TR3. One of the fiber odometer gears packed it in awhile ago, so I thought that we should be able to make one. I used the TinkerCad free program that actually has six different gear shapers, one of them pretty complex that can do helix's and bevels. We actually made a helix gear for a small gear motor I have that had a stripped fiber gear. Anyway, the gear for the odometer took a couple of tries to get on the money, but it works just fine. I had to make it about 1mm higher that the original, but only because it seemed to print the profile better.

These are more than just toys, they can actually produce useful stuff.

DSC_2853s.jpg
 
Yes...they will hold a huge position in our hoby of restoring old cars as more parts go NLA. First to jump on it will make a killing.
 
I've made a number of parts for my TR6. I use it for things I hadn't even thought of when I bought it.

Ed
 
Question from a dummy - don't you need an original to use as a model for the printer to make something? Or at least have the original specs (measurements, etc.)?

I'd think you couldn't just "make a missing part".

TM
 
Question from a dummy - don't you need an original to use as a model for the printer to make something? Or at least have the original specs (measurements, etc.)?

I'd think you couldn't just "make a missing part".

TM
Yeah, you need something. Original specs, or in this case, having the original (less a couple of teeth), I was able to get measurements. Even then, I had to tweak them in the program to get the gear to fit perfectly.

I'm just getting my feet wet and have only made a few simple parts, but I can see, that very complex stuff from even the free program that I have been using. The program that my son has is a lot more sophisticated, but it also has a steeper learning curve. I need simple.
 
Question from a dummy - don't you need an original to use as a model for the printer to make something? Or at least have the original specs (measurements, etc.)?

I'd think you couldn't just "make a missing part".

TM

You're right, but often a broken or worn out part is good enough to get measurements from. My TR6 seat belt parkers were a good example:

https://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-83/TR6-83.html#Parker

Even with a totally absent part, you could often design something that will work.

Ed

DSC04465a.jpg
 
Honestly, the amount of CAD work it takes makes it cheaper to buy NOS if it is available for a single part. The beauty is in the ability to either reproduce several, to reproduce an NLA part, or to easily make changes to the part after the initial time investment.
 
Honestly, the amount of CAD work it takes makes it cheaper to buy NOS if it is available for a single part. The beauty is in the ability to either reproduce several, to reproduce an NLA part, or to easily make changes to the part after the initial time investment.

Also, if you are pretty good with CAD, you can often have the part in a few hours rather than a few days.

Ed
 
I got a local guy to print me up a titanium part for adapting a modern inertia switch for the NLA original so I didn't need to mess about w the original fitting.
Spectacularly over enigineered but the idea of having a Ti part on an old TR6 really appeals...
 
Honestly, the amount of CAD work it takes makes it cheaper to buy NOS if it is available for a single part. The beauty is in the ability to either reproduce several, to reproduce an NLA part, or to easily make changes to the part after the initial time investment.

Anyone used a scanner?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bgYyPQQ4wWU
Tom
 
I got a local guy to print me up a titanium part for adapting a modern inertia switch for the NLA original so I didn't need to mess about w the original fitting.
Spectacularly over enigineered but the idea of having a Ti part on an old TR6 really appeals...

The can print with titanium now? I didn't know printing had progressed out of plastics.
 
They’ve been able to for a few years but there weren’t too many machines outside of Scandinavia. I think NZ got the first.
It works by making a layer of Ti dust and then melting it together with a laser. Then adds another layer of dust & repeat. Shake off and recycle your unfused dust and there you have a 3D Titanium shape.
Obviously it’s not forged so he won’t do critical load bearing parts but the useful resolution is pretty amazing.
 
The process of 3D printing by direct metal laser sintering was developed in Germany. It's been around for about twenty years. We have lots of vendors for it here in the US.

I guessing you don't hear about it much in mainstream media channels because the hoopla and hype are all aimed at consumers and the general public. I don't think the media understands or cares about what goes on in the industrial world.

Printed parts may not be as strong as forged parts but they are strong, about the same as cast parts. So as long as you design accordingly they can be load bearing. The first 3D printed titanium part I've held was an amazingly light and ridiculously complex piece from an aircraft landing gear.
 
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