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3000 Transmission Removal, alone or with engine?

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LanceLyon

Jedi Hopeful
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Hi everyone, it's been a while! I am just now reassembling my BJ7 during my frame off restoration. Remembering what a chore it was to remove both the engine and transmission together early in the project, I decided to re-install the engine first and then the tranny, as the official repair manual suggests it is possible to remove the transmission alone. Has anyone actually accomplished this, and how? Trying to drop it in from the top doesn't appear to work because the starter housing on the tranny is too wide to fit through the opening in the firewall, and from below it would appear that you just can't do it with the engine and clutch assembly in place.

Any suggestions or words of wisdom? Thanks! Lance
 
I've removed the xmsn only from several Healeys to do clutch and/or xmsn repairs, both side & center shift, so it is definately possible from the interior.

Whenever I needed to pull an engine (again, numerous times) it was always easier to do it with the xmsn attached.

The angle of the engine/trans is paramount to success; I use a fixture I made that bolts along the top of the rocker stands and has several points for hook-up. Today's adjustable load levelers would make the job of getting the right angle a snap.

Most of these practices were developed during my tenure at Austin-Healey West, in San Francisco during the late 70s.
 
That's good news Randy! Do you recall having trouble with the clearance as you insert the tranny through the opening in the firewall? It appears that the bell housing is perhaps an inch or so wider than the opening with the starter moter housing being the main culprit.

Lance
 
Putting the tranny in through the passenger seat (LHD) can be done, but it's a little bit of a pain. I angled the starter motor section of the bell housing through first, having to rotate the right side of the tranny up a couple inches. Putting tape on the firewall opening will help avoid some paint chipping.
 
lyon lance, i agree with all thats been mentioned here, i might add that if you intend to insert eng. and trans. as one unit you "must" assign at least one individual to keep an eye or two on the upper front surfice of the shroud so as not to ding/bend/smash it, as the install goes on youll find youself mostly watching the trans. as you slide and adjust the unit into the firewall neglecting to watch the front of the engine, if you asked me how i know id tell you ive seen three people who tried to do the install by them self with no help = "dee zastah" ive done the install using both methods but personally like doing the eng. and trans. as individual units. good luck, anthony.
 
I have no experience with installing a Healey engine. I have removed the transmission and reinstalled it twice through the passenger compartment. The trick I used was to build a small bench to rest the transmission on, then using a floor jack to lift it up about an inch to align the trans. bolt holes with the holes in the rear engine plate (and of course the transmission shaft with the clutch and crank holes). I also used a rope hoist mounted to the garage ceiling beam, but I had to remove the windshield to avoid potential damage because the trans center of mass is about where the dashboard is. The hoist was helpful in twisting the trans so the holes would line up. I also used a throwaway skinny long bolt and nut to draw the transmission up to the rear engine plate so I could get some of the other regular bolts to line up with the other holes. Remember to put the 2 "dowel" bolts, the ones with grooves around them, in the right holes: Upper left and Lower Right (viewed from rear).
 
By the way, I assume you removed the small shroud around the transmission opening. The transmission won't clear if that is in place. The tunnel cover attaches to the shroud.
 
TimK said:
By the way, I assume you removed the small shroud around the transmission opening.
Click to expand...
I'm not sure when a change occured, but my BJ8 has nothing to remove. That piece around the tranny is a part of the firewall.

P.S. When you are installing the motor, keep an eye on the fuel line where it crosses from right to left (as you sit in the car) on the frame. It can get crushed by the crank pulley.
 
GregW said:
TimK said:
By the way, I assume you removed the small shroud around the transmission opening.
Click to expand...
<span style="font-weight: bold">I'm not sure when a change occured, but my BJ8 has nothing to remove. That piece around the tranny is a part of the firewall.</span>
P.S. When you are installing the motor, keep an eye on the fuel line where it crosses from right to left (as you sit in the car) on the frame. It can get crushed by the crank pulley.
Click to expand...
Two (2) piece trans cover is for side shifter; center shift xmsn has one (1) piece fibreglas cover.
 
Yes, my BN7 is a side shift trans. Is a BJ7 a center shift?
 
Hi Randy,
I think Tim was talking about the piece highlighted in the photo? Which seems to have stopped @ BN7 to (c)16038,BT7 to (c)15880.
 
Installing engine first without transmission should be doable but you will need to a jack under the engine to fine tune the height. (When removing the transmission, I put a bottle jack and block of wood under the engine to keep the alignment.) To install the transmission from the passenger compartment alone, it helps to have a piece of plywood on the cockpit floor so you can slide rather than muscle it over the floor lip. A wheeled jack under the car helps. Set on jack and slide forward. You will may need something on the jack to keep the tranny from rolling off. Have the car on jack stands, but not too high, so you can get under it. I have removed and installed the tranny alone several times. Not bad, just time consuming and be careful.
 
GregW said:
Hi Randy,
I think Tim was talking about the piece highlighted in the photo? Which seems to have stopped @ BN7 to (c)16038,BT7 to (c)15880.
Click to expand...
Yes, as seen here:

ws_027.jpg
 
You guys are great! Thanks for all of the tips. I'll give it another go today and report back with (hopefully) my success!

Lance
 
I used similar techniques as described above, but also used a shim to force the engine backplate to the left a bit to help with the transmission housing interference.
 
Success!! Well I have to admit that I did lose a little paint around the opening in the firewall, but no much!

I think the key was the suggestion to rotate the tranny to get it through the opening.

Thanks for everyones help! Lance
 
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