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2nd set of detail questions: 1963 BJ7

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F

Fairview

Jedi Hopeful
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Thank you all for answering my first set of questions. I have just a few more, and I promise to quit bugging you.

1) Is there a piece of trunk liner missing on my car? Or is that rear panel supposed to be uncovered?



2) Is the metal top frame the right color?



3) All the small bits in my engine compartment are bare metal and getting surface rust (e.g. screws, brackets, accelerator linkage). Should these be painted, and if so, color?



4) Somebody put 8mm gray plug wires on this 3000. What are the proper plug wires and spark plug connectors?



I think that is it for now. Just want to say thanks for bearing with me. I guess I could have found a book for this info, but it is more fun, and probably more accurate, to ask you all.

If you see anything else in the photos that I should tend to, please sing out, it won't hurt my feelings. I just want this 3000 to be as authentic as it can be.

Best regards, Jeff
 
Jeff,
In addition to all of the great answers here I would suggest that you purchase the concours guidelines. They are not very expensive and chock full of the minute details. I read mine over and over again and keep finding nuances.

Here's the information for ordering as of 2010:

2010 Concours Registry
Guidelines Order Form (v. January 2010)
Complete form and submit with payment made payable to “Mike Osipik-Treasurer
AHCR” (US funds Money Order, Personal Check or equivalent. Do not send cash) to:
Mike Osipik
C/O Austin Healey Concours Registry
39 East 55th Terrace
Kansas City, MO 64113 USA
<span style="color: #000099">mikeosipik@earthlink.net</span>
816-333-2506
Please print legibly.
Name: _________________________________________________________________
Address: _______________________________________________________________
City, State, Zip Code: _____________________________________________________
Country (if other than US) _____________________________
Email Address: _____________________ Phone: _____________________________
Please note your car(s) description: Year__________
Model—BN1__ S__ BN2__ M__ BN4__ BN6__ BN7MK1__ BT7MK1__
BN7MK2__ BT7MK2__ BJ7__ BJ8 Phase 1__ BJ8 Phase 2__ Other____________
Sprite—MK1___ MK2___ MK3___ MK4____ Other________________________
The Austin Healey Concours Registry Guidelines and Judging Forms are Copyrighted documents provided
for the exclusive use of individuals purchasing the documents through the Austin Healey Concours Registry.
All guidelines will be distributed via CD with PDF and MSWord file formats. If you do not have Acrobat
Reader on your computer instructions will be provided with your order or you can go to:
https://get.adobe.com/reader/ for a free down load copy. Purchaser is allowed to print one set for their library
and one set for their work shop. Files are not to be sold, distributed, transmitted via internet, altered or used
in any other manner than intended by the Austin Healey Concours Registry.
(____) Big Healey Guidelines CD w/color photos
AND/OR
(____) Sprite Guidelines CD (Last update 2001) - no photos
Price includes shipping via US Priority Mail-
US Address: $20 USD
Canada and Mexico: $25 USD
All other countries: $27 USD
Ordering both Big Healey and Sprite Guidelines? Add CD cost of $15 USD and ship
with your current order (no additional postage cost)
Description- Each CD includes files for the following:
Policies and Procedures, Judging Guidelines, Photos (Big Healey), Score Sheets
 
Jeff, most all of the hardware that is rusting underhood should be white zinc plated to be authentic. You can buy a kit to do this from Caswell Plating (find on internet). You need to buy the Anderson/Moment book on Healeys! The engine was painted as a complete assembley when new so most of the pieces directly attached to it were also green. There is a filler piece missing in your boot liner , it tucks behind the support for the boot striker. The hood frame looks fine. You're missing bonnet buffer pads and weatherstrip which will support your bonnet properly and keep it from chipping the shroud paint. It looks like a pretty decent car and I'm sure nobody here feels bugged ! The better you know your car the better service it will give you. Kevin
 
Fairview said:
Thank you all for answering my first set of questions. I have just a few more, and I promise to quit bugging you.
Click to expand...

Jeff, That is what car forums are all about! You take excellent pictures an I enjoy seeing the details. The one item that jumps out to me as being out of place is the braided fuel line.
 
re: #4) The correct plug wires are 7mm stranded copper wire core with a right-angle plastic caps with 'Lucas' embossing on the end (Moss Motors and other suppliers have them). If you have an original-style distributor cap with the 'puncture-style' terminals and modern, spiral-wound carbon-core plug wires you will likely experience ignition problems sooner or later (an occasional miss on acceleration may be the first symptom).

There should also be rubber O-rings corralling the #1-#2 and #5-#6 plug wires together.
 
The braided fuel lines look to be as correct as you'll find, even the clamps look right. The fuel lines would each have had yellow ID bands on them, "Smiths Petroflex" if I remember. Looking the the underhood picture and blowing it up I can see a lot of effort to get it close. Leave it to the British to put a Lucas electrical horn directly underneath an SU carb. If I'm not mistaken this car is early enough that it still uses the 100-6 wiring diagragm in the shop manual.
 
I don't see the Cooper decals on the air filters. Maybe they weren't added to the BJ7 like they were on my BT7.
 
Lovely car Jeff, how authentic your car is can't necessarily be answered looking at photos, it all depends on what level of detail you want to go to. You could start down the road of making sure that all of the Lucas dated components have the correct date codes on them to match the build of your car, etc... One thing I notice that's not 100% right is the battery isolating switch, the correct original switch has a shorter knob, whereas all later replacements are longer.
 
Nice photos Jeff.

I noticed the copper water pipe is not painted. It should be the same color green as the engine. As mentioned, some of the parts on the engine were painted engine green while on the engine, just like the short rubber hose, to the left of the T tube at the back of the valve cover, and the J shaped rubber tube at the bottom of that pipe.

For safety, put an inline fuse close to the license plate lamp.
 
For bare metal or the zinc plated look for Race Glaze Jet laq non-paint laquer
Its a sort of clear coat but heat resistant
I have used it on the copper pump of my high presure cleaner, works great

Hans
 
Thanks for all this good information. It is more than I could have expected and makes taking care of the details so much easier.

Could you help me with a question about my posts? If I click on any of the photos I've put on, it will take me to my Smugmug photos, and from there I can go back into my other files (that have some of my other projects/junk, etc.). I don't know if it is just my computer, since it is my account, or if it works that way for everybody?

Thanks, Jeff
 
HealeyRick said:
Jeff,

I can view anything in the "Milepost 105" account. Here's what displays: Milepost105 > Cars > 1963 Austin Healey 3000 Mk II BTW, you're BJ7 is most impressive!
Click to expand...


Rick, Thank you very much for checking for me- that is good to know.

Jeff
 
British_Recovery said:
Hi all, Boot lid bumpers (small, round,black rubber pads) are missing from the three holes along the shroud edge. Nice car, Bob
Click to expand...

Good catch. There should be one (or more, can't remember) along the top of the windshield frame as well (might even be the same part number).
 
Brinkerhoff mentioned the 3 bonnet (hood) buffers and carburetor weatherstrip (to keep water out of the carbs. Here is a picture of the setup on my BN7. Yes, your car is top notch.
IMG_1479.jpg
 
Tim, I think you are missing one on the left side on your picture that is near the front. The one by the carbs should have a fin to it. At least that is how it is on the BJ8s
 
tahoe healey said:
Tim, I think you are missing one on the left side on your picture that is near the front. The one by the carbs should have a fin to it. At least that is how it is on the BJ8s
Click to expand...

On the BJ8 there are 3 rubber buffers on the left, and one on the right bottom corner, plus the long rubber strip with a fin (2nd photo show the fin), on the right to protect the carbs.
Cheers,
Roger
 

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