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26 miles-Crypty's dead,again

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Anybody got a list of the spares they carry for roadside
repairs? [/QUOTE]

Triple A card. Works every time.
 
Dale I have found that one of the keys to reliability at least in my own expierience is to simply not drive the car!
Park it in the garage and leave it. I can guarentee it will not leave you stranded, and you wallet will be much fatter.
This works just as well with cars, boats, jetski's etc.
 
roofman said:
Dale I have found that one of the keys to reliability at least in my own expierience is to simply not drive the car!
Park it in the garage and leave it. I can guarentee it will not leave you stranded, and you wallet will be much fatter.
This works just as well with cars, boats, jetski's etc.
Click to expand...

It will still leak.

Awe the joy of LBC's
 
Thanks Peter,

First and foremost I carry a large, fully charged fire
extinguisher.

Bentley Blue, TRF both parts books, 7 "how-to" print outs
from Triumph Buckeye.

I carry a complete ignition replacement system except for
alternator and starter. I carry in my trunk a set of new
plugs, two coils, plugs wires, dizzy cap, coil wire, plus
two sets of points, 2 condensers, 3 rotors and feeler
gauges. I used my spare fuel pump so I need another spare.

I carry a complete electical kit including 30 feet of Dan
Masters wire, 20 fuses, propane mini-torch solder gun,
solder, flasher cans(2), wire ends, shrink wrap, wire
stripper tool and a few hundred wire connectors. I carry
maybe 20 light bulb replacements.

I carry a brand new spare tire, (with air pump in case the
spare loses air) 2 jacks and 2 tire irons. I carry four
extra wheel lug nuts and two extra wheel studs.

I carry 3 complete sets of 1/4", and 3/8" and 1/2" drive
sockets with extensions for all and angle drive fittings.
I carry 3 extra 7/16, 1/2 and 9/16 sockets.I carry a
complete set of American and Metric wrenches with 3 extra
7/16, 1/2 and 9/16 wrenches. I USUALLY carry 5 different
sized drive ratchets.

I carry six boxes filled with bolts, nuts, washers, screws,
loctite, gaskets, pliers, vice grips, screw drivers, hammer,
knives, pipe wrench, a few chisels and baling wire.

I carry two new u-joints with 2 pairs of U-joint clip
pliers. I carry a mini-grease gun.

I carry brake fluid, 3 gallons of water and 1 qt of oil.
I stuff the trunk with clean working rags.

I carry a bag with two beach towels, 2 bottles of water
and sun screen behind the seats.

I carry a spare trailing arm with a set of heli-coils and
new studs.

I will be adding emergency fuel line, another fuel pump and
maybe start hauling around my jack stands behind my seats.

Here is my truck space :

spareparts.jpg
 
A while back someone had a TR6 for sale with a custom trailer built from the back half of another TR6. This could work for you.
 
Why not just drag a spare car around with ya Dale?

Ive never seen so much stuff in the boot of a TR6.

"Preperation is the Key"
 
i carry a leatherman and a cell phone.


mark
 
I'm trying to figure out where you would need a flare fitting for your gas lines. All my fittings are compression fittings or rubber-hose joints.
 
ISTR the connection to each end of the fuel pump is a flare. But then don't quote me - mine isn't connected...
 
Oh, you must be talking about the electric pump. My OE-style (Italian, from TRF. Very nice quality) mechanical pump uses compression fittings.
 
Tinster,

I had a similar problem with fuel starvation while stationed in DC. I sputtered into Motorhead LTD, bought a fuel pump and installed it in their parking lot. The new pump improved the situation, but something was still wrong. It turned out the line coming out of the tank was mostly blocked with crud, and the long run of pipe along the frame was partially blocked with rust 'dust' from the tank.

Should have replaced it, but I ran a long piece of copper wire through it to clear it out. I think cleaning/replacing your fuel lines will work wonders.

Jeff
74 TR6 CF13816U
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Oh, you must be talking about the electric pump. My OE-style (Italian, from TRF. Very nice quality) mechanical pump uses compression fittings. [/QUOTE]

I'm pretty sure mine had a flare on it.
Then again, like I said, don't quote me on that.
 
Hi There Peter;

In My Boot; I have the following (Always):

Hydraulic Jack: Remindes me to check the air in my spare?
Knock off Hammer & that "Big" wooden thing for the Knockoffs:
Hose Tape:
"All" Ignition parts:
Brake Fluid:
2Qts of Oil / 20-50:
Gal of Antifreeze:
Variety of Wrenches to include an "Adjustable":
Flat Hd & Phillips Hd Screw Drivers:

I think I`m good to go! Have`nt had the need for any of the above, Yet:

Regards, Russ
 
Ah, keeper of the Crypt.

When this first happened I was able to go down to my local parts jobbers warehouse(I've been in auto repair for a while now) and get a rebuild kit. The early pumps that screwed together are a basic ac diaphraphm design pump. After I rebuilt it, it was ok for a while.
I wanted to forestall any future repeats, So I got one of the Carter blue top, low pressure electric pumps, went back to the fuel tank and mounted it on rubber stands that MB uses(d) on their air filter housings). Wired it into a separate toggle switch(with an inline fuse) so that it would also work as an antitheft device. Worked great!

On my 2nd 6 I installed one of the square facets in the back as a booster pump. One of the great aspects of having a booster pump, is even if the primary pump dies, you should still have enough pressure/volume to get to where you need to go.
A separate fuel system is unnecessary and could get quite complex.
A recommendation, take off the fuel cap and filler rubber(hose clamp under the body panel) get a small flash light and dentist type mirror on a shaft, after you've drained all the gas from the tank(in something with some kind of strainer- a hardware store paint protection mask filter is good) to see what debris drains from the tank. You might be able to get a visual to see if the tank is rusting and flaking on the inside. If it is, remove and reseal it. Not that hard to do. Easier than replacing rear suspension. Plus you get the opportunity to paint the tank!
 
Bill-

DPO Pedro's fuel pump and my new TR6 fuel pump
both require flare fittings for the in/out lines.
Female threads on the pump and male fitting adapter
with flares at end of the copper pipes.

I dragged my tired butt with the old pipe, fitting
and Pedro's pump all over the place this afternoon
trying to acquire copper or steel fuel pipes and flare
kits or even have the whole kit and kaboodle copper
pipe with flare and male adaptor fabricated.

No luck in my sphere of many stops . Not even ACE hardware.

On the way back, disgusted and disappointed, I stopped
in the local Speed Shop that is walking distance from
home. One young fellow was actually familiar with Stromberg
carbs. He told me to leave the Crypt Car pieces and come
back tomorrow afternoon and pick up the Speed Shop finished
product.

I can't wait to see what the young fellers design and build
for Crypty. They know Crypty is red and that I'm an
architect.

Hopefully photos tomorrow.

Do I carry too many parts in my trunk, is asked? I saved
about $300 to $400 tow yesterday. That plus my professional
time paid for everything in my trunk. Asked and answered.

d
 
Better order a new set of rear shocks and springs to hold the back end of that bad boy up after a few thousand miles.
 
"....after a few thousand miles."

Let's calculate Crypty here:

332 miles driven in 17 months =19 miles/month

= 228 miles per year into 3,000 miles

= 13 years use on the just installed new coil springs.

Yup! Sounds about correct to me!

Ya gotta have a sense of humor to own a Crypt Car!

d /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hammer.gif /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crazyeyes.gif /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crazyeyes.gif
 
Dale, you still in the shakedown period of buying the car with only that many miles. You've shaken the heck out of it though.
 
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