Wedge 1980 TR8 a/c non efi

[sabot]

Ok, so i'm changing the radiator, i'm trying to follow the manual.
In the radiator section it says do a,b,c, then see fan section for fan removal.
If i go to the fan section, it says do a,b,c, then see radiator section.
So which is it, remove the fan or rad. 1st? or is it something you have to do at the same time?
also, any hints on what to watch out for ?
thanks tom

 

[Mickey Richaud]

Tom -

From memory - dangerous, in my case - and if the car has the electric fans:

The radiator is cradled in the fan housing, and they are best removed together. Fan housing has four (I think) bolts/studs at the top, accessible in the channel at the rear of the front apron, and four (again, from memory) bolts that attach to the frame rails. Take those off first, so the housing is held by the top bolts - just loosen those at first. Then, while your third and fourth hands are supporting the assembly (!), remove the four up top, and the whole thing will drop down. You'll probably have to "persuade" it, but it's not a tough job.

Drain it first, by removing the bottom hose.

Mickey

 

[sabot]

Ok Thanks, have done everything except the top bolts, should be fun.
Tom

 

[tr8todd]

Careful. It's much heavier than it looks. You have to remove the temp sensor that is in the drivers side of the radiator before you try and drop it down. It won't clear the frame rail on the way down. Once it is down,the top and bottom halves are held together with two bolts at the bottom. The fan cage stays with the top half.

 

[sabot]

ok, Thanks.
Tom

 

[DNK]

Top bolts are the most fun.
Make sure you remove all wiring that is connected to and thru the shroud

 

[Mickey Richaud]

Yep - thanks for adding the note about the temp. sensor, Todd. I thought about that on the way home to lunch today. It's pretty much impossible to remove when the radiator is in place, so make sure it's in good shape while it's out.

 

[sabot]

the radiator i have sitting on my spitfire trunk has a sensor on it, top left corner, should be fun.
tom

 

[Mickey Richaud]

That would be the one. Be sure to take care when installing/removing, as the terminals of the sensor can be snagged and bent or broken as you're "persuading" (I love that word!) the assembly into place.

 

[tr8todd]

That sensor is actually a switch for one of the fans. The other fan's switch is on top of the intake manifold. Of course they are both overriden by the AC system. My personal preference is to do away with both of them and install an aftermarket fan switch that has an adjusting screw for setting the temp at which the fan/fans kick on. I just installed a universal 16X26 aluminum radiator from Summit, with aftermarket electric fan and fan switch. This is how I have done the last 4 TR8s I've had, and it works great. Saves a ton of weigh and does away with the complicated TR8 fan wiring. Not really an option if you still want AC I suppose.

 

[DNK]

Careful. It's much heavier than it looks. You have to remove the temp sensor that is in the drivers side of the radiator before you try and drop it down. ...

Mine stayed in!

 

[sabot]

Am I allowed to ask what something like the Summit Rad. cost? or is that taboo?
The previous owner did have the fans hooked up to a seperate switch and the fuel pump to a seperate switch, under dash, left side.
I have the used one that has been checked out or i can get mine rebuilt.
tom

 

[sabot]

I got to stand on my head to view that picture.
tom

 

[sabot]

one more stupid question, do i need to use tread tape or anything when i reinstall the temp sensor?
thanks tom

 

[tr8todd]

The Summit rad was $179, and it is made by Griffen. It is not a direct bolt in but can be made to fit with some fabrication. There is no port for the fan switch(not a problem if you use an aftermarket one anyway) and there was no small outlet at the top for the hose going to the overflow tank. I heated up the old rad and pulled the old outlet out once the solder melted. I then used a step drill bit to drill a new hole in the new rad and then used JB weld to attach it. I could have taken it to a local rad shop and had a new outlet welded for a few bucks, but the JB weld method has worked fine in the past. For the mounting pins, I used 7/16" stainless bolts passed thru the rubber bushing and a piece of sheetmetal riveted to the channels on the tank. I like the bolt because you can actually bolt the rad to the brackets instead of just sandwiching it in there. Top radiator hose is a direct bolt up. Lower one requires splicing together the TR8 hose with a GM one. The universal rad has a 1.75" opening on the bottom where the TR8 is only 1.5"

 

[tr8todd]

Here is a better picture of the pins.

 

[sabot]

thanks for the pictures, looks sweet. the boss/banker says to keep it stock for now. do you know if i have to use any kind of tread tape or something on the temp sensor when i reinstall it?

tom

 

[tr8todd]

I've seen it with and without. There is suppose to be a copper crush washer that provides the sealing like on an oil drain plug. I don't think teflon tape or rector seal will hurt. It is a switch, so it probably doesn't need to ground in order to work.

 

[sabot]

Again, thanks for the info. I'm going to try and get out to the garage again tonight.
tom

 

[sabot]

Re: 1980 TR8 a/c non efi radiator swap

what fun while disconnecting the coil, drop both of the nuts, think i can find them? nope.
while disconnecting some of the white plastic plugs, the ones that have two offset blades, i find that the one on the left side is brunt, on both the male and female side.
I wonder if that is why pto has a cooling fan switch mounted under the dash.
and do my Snap On screw drivers reach the top right radiator hose? nope. the specialty set i have is for phillips heads.
veeeeeeeery long drivers. but no flat heads.
guess i go buy some new ones tomorrow.
anybody want pictures?
Tom